Broken Cylinder Wall

CrvnJ

Member
We were removing the cylinder sleeves from our 1948 8N when one of my helpers slipped and punched a hole in the cylinder wall.
Is there anything we can do to fix this?
Thanks for any and all help.
 

Is the hole only in the sleeve you removed..?

If so, that is fine...BUT, I cannot give you advice if the hole is in the Block, where the (Dry Sleeves) are supposed to go..

Mush have been some "Slip"..

Ron.
 
ouch. i just resleeved my 2N - happily, no holes in the block from it.

how big is the hole? i don't have any answers for this one, but i figure the hole size may help others.
 
With enough time and/or money most things can be repaired.

That said, considering the number of serviceable 8N cylinder blocks and complete engines available at modest prices, I would replace it.

Dean
 
When I removed the thin wall sleeves in my 8N block, I found a crack with hole like you describe, but not as big. Now that engine had been running for many years with only the thin wall sleeve sealing the combustion from the antifreeze. The machinist I took it to bored that cylinder out for a repair sleeve (thicker wall than the .040 8N sleeve) and related how they do it all the time even on industrial diesels like CAT dozer engines and other very heavy duty engines. Such a repair in the 8N block will be good for the rest of your life and even your grandson's life. Such a repair, well done, is probably stronger than the original block casting.

Go for it!

Paul in MN
 
I know its too late for you now but I tried something ihave heard before. I ran a couple of beads of weld down the sleeves, let them cool and they tapped out with very little effort. Worked great. Just dont weld thru sleeve into block. FYI for next time and for other readers.
 
I'll add my success story about this method. It worked for me. Maybe 10 years ago, I posted pictures of the block and sleeves I welded out. They might still be available through the archives. Go easy on the welding heat, the sleeves are thin. You can always add another bead or 2 to get the desired shrinkage. Using the MIG welder, I ran a few beads from bottom to top of the sleeve. The block bore did show discoloration from the welding heat, but because it is cast iron, that heat does not change the hardness of the iron.

Paul in MN
 
When I rebuilt my 48 8N about 15 years ago I found I had a 1"x2" hole in one cylinder and another with a 1/2" hole in it. The machine shop put some locktite on the sleeves and it's been running ever since!
 
Any chance you could tell me what number of Loctite? I've run across everything from 600 to 660.
Thanks for the information!
 
The hole is not at the bottom. Any chance you could tell me what number of Loctite? I've run across everything from 600 to 660.
Thanks again for the information!
 
(quoted from post at 14:12:06 01/22/16) The hole is not at the bottom. Any chance you could tell me what number of Loctite? I've run across everything from 600 to 660.
Thanks again for the information!

Loctite 640 - High Strength Sleeve Retainer

Click on the link to review the data sheet. No need to slather it all over the sleeve/bore. Put a ~1" wide band around the BOTTOM of the block bore and another ~1" wide band at the TOP of the sleeve and drive the sleeve in. Don't dawdle or stop in the middle. Once that stuff begins to cure you will not easily move the sleeve again - in or out.....

TOH
 

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