Fixing Ford 801 gas tank, questions

(Sent this earlier but don't think if went through. (Excuse if it appears twice).


Was given two old 801 Ford tractor gas tanks. Both have some damage and I would like to make a good one from parts of both.

One has a good bottom half, the other has a good top half. So my questions are the following;

- when the tanks were made back in the 50's, were they welded, "glued", etc. together?
- is there a way to take them apart at the seams?
- if I am able to take them apart, what is the best way to bond them together?
- if I am able to part them, before putting together, what is the best "sealer" to use inside?

Of all the questions above, the main one is, how to take it apart.

They have been sitting around for about ten years(open). So I guess it is safe to work with them, but I will fill them with water. Will use a jigsaw or fine metal grinder to open them if I can't "un-seam" them. Will use a torch to braze it back, or small arc or mig welder.

Any advice or assistance will be appreciated. Thank you in advance. Davidz

They are electrically "continuous seam welded" together.

I doubt you can separate the "halves" at that seam without destroying them

Myself, I would make "patch panels" to repair the damaged area(s), and solder them in place with "Staybrite".

That being said, I have a LOT of respect for explosive vapors that could be lingering, and would have the tank steamed out, and probably fill it with inert gas before soldering.

a new tank is $179 from this site. Why on earth would you try making one tank from two for that price?

Few years back I was at the local motor cycle shop. Talking to the owner and that subject was discussed about an old gas tank on a vw. He said if I brought it in they had some stuff that will seal and fill up any perforations in the tank. They use it on gas tanks for the older bikes all the time. Might ask them . wont hurt.

When you say both have some damage, do you mean that they have rust holes in them? Or are they dented? If one or both is dented, I'd try to fill them with water, plug the in let and outlet,then let them freeze. Frozen water can exzert a lot of preasure. Might have do it a few times. You could then bondo them and paint them. Just a thought...
MTP

It's all a bit of guesswork not having actually seen your tanks, but I'd be inclined to pick the tank with the best bottom half.

Myself, I'd wire wheel it to find any and all holes and pin holes
and then braze all the weak spots. then for the ultimate in making it a sure fix that will last, I'd do what someone here suggested . . . cover the affected areas with 3M Bondo.
3M ensures that their bondo will work perfectly on gas tank pin holes (even without the brass patching you might do.

If your tank has been airing out for ten years you have absolutely no need to fear explosions. If you can stick your nose in an opening and not smell fuel vapor it is not going to explode on you!

I did the above in the Spring of 2014 on my '54 International gas tank. It had only one leak but after I chisled off the thick undercoating, I found several weak spots and rust where hold-down straps had rested. There was no need to make it pretty and so on thin spots where I layered the brass on it might look sloppy but it is thorough coverage.

Photo is after the brazing and BEFORE the application of bondo and finally Valspar black brush on paint. No leaks.

P.S. re. my tank:

That's the bottom of it in the photo and so I had that long seam to worry about. There was some seam corrosion where the straps tie it to my running board brackets.

I cleaned up and scratched up the bare surface after all the brazing was done and Bondo'd the ENTIRE bottom section by section, roughing up edges of hardened bondo patches with super coarse grit paper for best adhesion for the next adjoining patch.

It was the short fiber strand type of Bondo.

I did a 67 Chev tank like that but without the Bondo and that tank also seemed maybe too labor intensive to be wise . . . but like tractor rads and water pumps -- sticking with original parts -- it makes it all worth while when it comes to an effortless re-installation plus I enjoy resurrecting quality old stuff and making it last forever

. . . that's [b:27382b1584]my[/b:27382b1584] forever.

Integrity:
On the side of my old Oliver Crawler was a plate:
"Built to Endure".

Terry

That gas tank sets right over top of your engine and exhaust
manifold. I would not take a chance on it leaking by using any
kind of "puckey" and hoping it would hold up.

If it were in a car or truck where it would leak on the ground and
not right on top of your engine/exhaust, that might be different,
but still be careful what you use. Check the MSDS sheets.
Bondo, for example, contains talc. It's not even water proof.
Let alone standing up to gasoline on its own. MSDS

In my experience, once rust starts it continues.
Only way to stop it is to cut it all out and patch in new metal.
By the time you did that with a gas tank that is readily available
you would have more time and material in it than a new one costs.

Replacing the tires alone on this one was more than a gas tank.

those pics are painful to look at

"those pics are painful to look at "

Would the "after" pictures help?
[b:6079369002]Here[/b:6079369002] it is on YT when I finished it.
A lot of work, but I'm pretty happy with it.

ahhhh, crispy. the legend grows.

beautiful job

Thanks HFJ. By the way, Crispy got a new gas tank! :shock:

You're probably right.
I forgot about the heat factor and have never pulled a tractor tank, but will this summer.

Bondo's fine and necessary on that ratty old cornbinder tank, but if repair comes up for the Jube tank I'll only use brass.

T

Crispy got a new gas tank! :shock:

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The burned hand teaches best. After that, advice about fire goes to the heart.

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