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2n points always corrode.

S

stryped

Member
I have an old 2n front mount distributor that sits outside in the elements. A common problem I have is it wont start the once in a blue moon I use it. (bush hogging, etc). What happens is the points corrode and have no continuity between them.

Can I spray or use something on the points to keep them from corroding?
Also, I would like to somehow weatherproof the distributor and square can coil as much as I can. I thought about covering it in that peel and stick asphalt flashing, but I assume the engine heat would cause that to not last very long. Can anyone out there help me with some ideas to moisture/weatherproof the points/coil/distributor?
 
Check out tip # 67.

If the tractor sits w/o running for a a few months, the points will corrode. A weak battery, also from sitting, doesn't help either.
DSC03063.jpg

75 Tips
 
I understand about the gaskets, but there has got to be a way to keep the points from corroding. Like I said I do not use the tractor very often and it is a pain to have to remove the distributor whenever you need to use it.

Is there something you can put on the points, like dielectric grease or something very light that will prevent corrosion? It seems old point cars don't generally have this problem.
 
Is there something you can put on the points, like dielectric grease or something very light that will prevent corrosion?
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i haven't had this issue, but i do have a tube of GB Ox-Gard (OX-100). i'd absolutely try it in this situation.
 
My experience with 9/2Ns is that if they sit in a humid environment the points will corrode (whether you have the gaskets or not). Buy the best points you can get. If that does not work then a 12 volt conversion and a switch to electronic ignition might be worth a try. I do not have any experience with electronic ignition on front mount distributors, but I did do it on a 601 that had similar corrosion problems. That solved the corroding points in that tractor.
 
" but there has got to be a way to keep the points from corroding. "

There is.

Start the tractor every 30 days or so.

Or install EI as Harold suggested.

" dielectric grease"

That would achieve just the opposite of what you want; dielectric grease is an insulator.
75 Tips
 
As Bruce says, I just brush hog and push snow with mine ('46 2N), for real work, but I find an excuse to start it up every 2 or 3 weeks. Even if my lovely wife starts asking silly questions, like; why were you out on the county road moving gravel around?
Against Bruce's better judgement, I haven't opened up my points for 6 years.
If i keep the battery charged and the plugs dry, and some times mag heat, she starts reasonably well in these NE winters.
 
(quoted from post at 10:57:06 01/18/16) I would love the electronic ignition. Its just cost prohibitive right now.
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Agree with bruce. clean, dry points, and use them now and again.

lube ont he contacts will cause problems.
 
I have a front mount 12 volt conversion with 6 volt coil, original ballast resistor, and an additional resistor to drop the current through the points to about 4 amps. I filed the points the last time I had the distributor off some years ago; it was either that or new points, which I did not have on hand. The tractor isn't used frequently, and the points oxidize. I try to start the tractor occasionally to let the points hammer off the oxidation, and when it doesn't start, I turn on the key, connect a jumper between the hot terminal of the battery and the coil, push the starter button,and it fires right up. I yank the alligator clip off the coil terminal immediately, staying well away from the fan, then disconnect the other end, so there will be no spark at the battery. I have done this a bunch of times.

It wouldn't be a difficult circuit to hardwire, but I haven't done it.

Zeke B.
 
stryped..........NEVER FILE yer points (0.015) you'll remove the HARD TUNGSTEN deposit. Would it surprize to learn CLOSED points don't corrode 'cuz oxygen kant gitt to the surfaces. Me? I'd stick the corner of a $1-bill (cheap) between the points and pull. I do that with every set of points I install. .......HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
" dielectric grease"

That would achieve just the opposite of what you want; dielectric grease is an insulator.
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the product i mentioned specifically states "improves conductivity". perhaps my confusion here is maybe it's not dielectric grease? i know the ends of the wires that carry power to both my home and pole barn are liberally covered in the stuff.

the only concern i would have, at this point, is that i've read that it's not recommended for use on high voltage connections - and i assume the voltage involved here is high.

if anyone is interested, here is a good read i found on the subject:

http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm

an excerpt:

"Car forums repeat a few myths about greases. Forums usually claim dielectric grease thermally insulates connections. Forums also claim dielectric grease electrically insulates connections, such as in connectors and on battery posts. Neither is true."

if anyone could provide more clarification on this, i'm all ears (or eyes, as the case may be) :)
 
As I understand it, grease of any type is sufficiently displaced (squeezed out from between the mating conductors) that it is not much of an insulator in a tight connection. Perhaps if ignition points were held together with a lot more spring pressure, grease and dirt and oxidation would be less of a factor in their operation. But then, of course, there would be other problems.

Zeke B.
 

Nothing between the contacts on those points. Not even the oil that you don't see from your finger prints.
Good quality points should last. Wondering if you are not pitting them due to excessive current flowing through the points.
 
" the product i mentioned specifically states "improves conductivity". perhaps my confusion here is maybe it's not dielectric grease?"

That's correct; it isn't dielectric grease. It does conduct, but not at high voltage as you noted. However, 6 or 12v across the points isn't high by any means, so if anyone wants to try an experiment, it might work.

Dielectric grease is an insulator:

" Dielectric grease

Dielectric grease is electrically insulating and does not break down when high voltage is applied. It is often applied to electrical connectors, particularly those containing rubber gaskets, as a means of lubricating and sealing rubber portions of the connector without arcing.

A common use of dielectric grease is in high-voltage connections associated with gasoline engine spark plugs. "
75 Tips
 
I don't care what you call it, X-grease, Y-grease, Z-grease or Butch Wax, I wouldn't put any of those "dirt attractants" on ignition points. They are not a totally grease-encapsulated environment as is a connector contact enclosed in a shell.
 
(quoted from post at 19:08:43 01/18/16) I don't care what you call it, X-grease, Y-grease, Z-grease or Butch Wax, I wouldn't put any of those "dirt attractants" on ignition points. They are not a totally grease-encapsulated environment as is a connector contact enclosed in a shell.
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I wish they had a "LIKE" button on this site~!
 
ok, i get the dirt attractant angle :)

how about a light coating on the contact surfaces in between uses? wouldn't that be easier to remove than corrosion?

happy to have not had this issue with mine (yet). it doesn't sit outside, but it's in a poorly ventilated pole barn with a dirt/gravel floor. i use it all summer, but rarely if ever in winter.
 
(quoted from post at 19:28:58 01/18/16) ok, i get the dirt attractant angle :)

how about a light coating on the contact surfaces in between uses? wouldn't that be easier to remove than corrosion?

happy to have not had this issue with mine (yet). it doesn't sit outside, but it's in a poorly ventilated pole barn with a dirt/gravel floor. i use it all summer, but rarely if ever in winter.
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As has been said run her every few weeks. I am in the same boat.
I use her all summer but have no use for her in the winter. So every 2-3 weeks I start her up and let her idle around 1000rpm for 45 minutes or so.
 
There is NO spray that will help.

High quality points will help if you can find any.

Dean
 
,about the best way to keep it running, is buy quality parts, next is to use it or if not needed, at least start it up regularly and let it run at least until it reaches full operating temp. when shut down, keep the tractor covered, buy a quality tarp if nothing else, if you live in a wet or humid environment that is a problem common to all machines that dont see a lot of use, i dont use electronic ignition on old tractors about half the time you just create more problems, look thru the archives here, and see how many posts you see where it says something like 'N wont start or N stopped running', and then in the next sentence you see 'put on electronic ignition', there is a LOT. most of these systems for old tractors is made overseas, and no how, no way, is it as reliable as a PROPERLY installed original set up, as long as the parts of the original set up are of the best possible quality, and not also overseas made inferior parts getting the best parts means spending some money for them they do cost more than the cheap stuff, you get what you pay for ,ive even spent time online and bought old nos points still in unbroken original packages, the last seti got of those has run the old jube for 2 years now it does take some time to find stuff like that but its out there ive got old engines running on points that have set in engines for decades, now i did replace all of those after i got it running but still the fact that it ran at all is a nod for a simple set up that just works
 
This is one situation where electronic ignition is very useful.
On a machine which is stored in a damp location or is infrequently used the points do get that "invisible corrosion" and have to be messed with.
Electronic ignition is not susceptible to dampness. If replacing gaskets as Bruce suggests does not do the job for you then consider EI.
Install it correctly and you will likely never open your distributer again.
 

The same ones that struggle with EI struggle with points. The problem with passed EI post is the points lubbers struggle with it also, so that leads to trash talk that proves nuttin....

The bad, a front mount is a P.O.S. points are EI it is what it is... Its a little more involved to set a front mount up to EI :cry:

The good, on most every thing else its a piece of cake to upgrade to EI. :D
 
the tuff you may be thinking of can prevent electrolysis corrosion on dis-similar metals like copper, steel, and aluminum.

greases and dieleftrics on a fixed connection, etc.. is fine.

on a breaker contact system, you will have problems with a lube on the contacts.. they will burn...
 
something just hit me, you all know those little bags of stuff that absorbs moisture that come in products like electronics, has anybody put one of those under the dist. cap when storing their tractor? does that work? on the other i guess im just old i grew up when points were what we had, and learned to deal with them unless something really weird is happening, on the front mounts ive worked on which have been about 10 around the valley here 2 bolts and a wore and the whole thing comes off and then its easy to play with it, even easier on the side mounts, [ unless it has a loader, thats a whole nuther thing!]
 
Eric,
When we were kids we didn't have computers, cell phones, microwaves, satellite TV, xm radio, CT scans, EKGs, digital cameras, laseroscopy, cruise control, defibulators, joint replacements, OSB plywood, sheetrock screws, screw guns, air nailers, ice makers in our fridges, water softeners, CNC lathes and mills, instant replay, laser levels, GPS, vinyl siding, Tyvek house wrap, high efficiency furnaces, fish finders, metal detectors, smoke detectors, trickle chargers and a host of other breakthroughs that "supposedly" improve our lives.
There is no one who says we have to use all this technology. We could all live like the Amish if we wanted to.
There were many suggestions for what to do with points that corrode in this thread. H Cook and I simply suggested one more way of dealing with corroding points on a tractor that is infrequently used. Take my suggestion with a grain of salt if EI is not your thing. But please don't single out this one technological advancement as somehow worse than all those other advancements I mentioned.
To the board in general: I apologize for all the rancor I have caused over this issue through the years.
I have not brought this up in over a year - let a lot of posts pass just to keep the peace.
But don't for a moment think that I have changed my opinion on the benefits of 12V and EI.
I'm just trying to more judiciously advocate for that which I believe in - without causing a ruckus all the time.
This was one I thought very aptly merited the suggestion of EI and so I made the post.
 
for my part, i love the back and forth. i enjoy hearing differing viewpoints, and the pros and cons that go with them.

there's an enormous wealth of know-how on this board, and i thank all who share it. i also thank u all in advance for putting up with my habit of thinking out loud. over the years, it's a habit that's earned me both praise and ridicule. i see no reason to think that's ever gonna change.

hopefully, by exposure to the thoughts of everyone here, i can at least tilt those scales farther toward praise. it may not be likely, but hey, it's worth a shot :)
 

Why are you apologizing for providing a perfectly good answer. We all live in a society where we each make our own decisions based on all the options at hand. No one will force or twist anybody's arm here no matter how much they try.

We have all heard no question is a dumb question along those lines no answer is a dumb answer although I know many folks will disagree.

I relish the fact that there is so much information to be had here. For us folks who do not consistently work on these tractors such as some of you, we need to be consistently beat over the head and reminded that there are many other ways to fix these machines.

I for one am a geek for nostalgia. I love keeping them as original as possible. I prefer to keep the point system on the tractor. I preferred to have a generator over an alternator. Although I have about a dozen of these alternators is sitting in the back because I work on GM cars. But that's my choice. I enjoy reading every thread concerning the EI ignition. From each thread I always learn one newthing. So don't stop repeating it.

The only thing that irks me to no end on this site is when someone bashes another. If I want to paint my damn tractor John Deere green I'll do just that my choice.
 
(quoted from post at 16:51:42 01/19/16)
Why are you apologizing for providing a perfectly good answer. We all live in a society where we each make our own decisions based on all the options at hand. No one will force or twist anybody's arm here no matter how much they try.

We have all heard no question is a dumb question along those lines no answer is a dumb answer although I know many folks will disagree.

I relish the fact that there is so much information to be had here. For us folks who do not consistently work on these tractors such as some of you, we need to be consistently beat over the head and reminded that there are many other ways to fix these machines.

I for one am a geek for nostalgia. I love keeping them as original as possible. I prefer to keep the point system on the tractor. I preferred to have a generator over an alternator. Although I have about a dozen of these alternators is sitting in the back because I work on GM cars. But that's my choice. I enjoy reading every thread concerning the EI ignition. From each thread I always learn one newthing. So don't stop repeating it.

The only thing that irks me to no end on this site is when someone bashes another. If I want to paint my damn tractor John Deere green I'll do just that my choice.
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If I want to paint my damn tractor John Deere green I'll do just that my choice.
No please don't do it: :eek:
 
nothing you can do....
Nature rules. Damp, dirt floor shed, wild weather.. corrosion or that "Is this stuff alive?' green moss will happen.
When I had front mounts, my main worker got 12v and EI...no issues. ALL got round coils.
The others...well, I tried to start them regularly or left them outside with just a small tophat type tarp. They seemed to do better outside where the sun could help.
Inside ones....I bought a spare front-mount distributor off ebay and kept it on a shelf in the shop(complete). If the tractor didn't fire immediately, I swapped em out. and redid the swapped one when I had time.
 
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