OT - what's best tool for bleeding brakes by yourself?

On a budget, but don't want to throw money away and have buyer's remorse. But if I'm bleeding brakes by myself on my old truck's drum brakes (I have other vehicles to use this on also) by myself is the bottle at Auto Zone (less than $10) good enough or should I spend more for the pump / vacuum thingy?
Get the cheap pump at Harbor Freight or spend more for Mityvac or comparable brand?
I'm looking for opinions and preferences.
Thanks in advance!
 
The simple hand held vacuum pump works very well and will last for years. I have had 2 over the years and my first one finally gave up a year or so ago but it was a good 30 years old
 
peice of hose that fits the bleeder an long enough to reach a masion jar (with fluid in the bottom ) weight that bottom of the hose
 
No pedal pusher available ? Remember; don't pump the pedal. Pedal down - open bleeder, close bleeder - pedal up. Repeat as necessary. Start at the farthest from the MC. Gravity will do it if you are on your own - takes some time and you have to keep an extra eye on the MC to keep it full. HTH
 
tried them all, now I just open the bleeder and let gravity do its job, furthest one first, some times when I'm bored I tap the lines with a wrench.
 
Here's an old brake bleeding trick. Get a long piece of vacuum hose and hook to a vacuum port on the intake manifold or carburetor. Fill master cylinder. Hook a short piece of clear tubing to bleeder screw and vac hose. Start vehicle, crack bleeder, watch the air bubbles thru the clear hose, and close bleeder when bubbles are gone. Repeat each wheel. The small amount of brake fluid that gets sucked into the engine is nothing to worry about and will blow out the exhaust. Works like a charm.
 

For most people, they are not going to be bleeding brakes everyday. I purchased a hand vacuum pump from Harbor Freight and found that it worked very well for bleeding brakes by myself.
 
I just use a stick.Open the bleeder, Push the pedal down, place the stick between the steering wheel and pedal to hold the pedal down. Then close the bleeder and remove the stick. repeat.
 
Not the best way but its cheap. Dukes mayo jar that can be used with vacuum. If you get brake fluid in your handheld vacuum pump it will ruin it are its killed all I got brake fluid in...

plow%20bleeder%20013_zpsnbj59pge.jpg


Sum'N like this is cheap enuff...

http://www.zoro.com/westward-brake-...AblaAiuwwtj6HJotQBoCJM3w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

A little more high tech.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/6...Pc7GiKHJJqlpF91j7EX7V2Uo2QwM6EiiV-BoC07fw_wcB

Gravity, pressure are vacuum does not always work sometimes you have to pump'em and then all the stars in the universe have to be aligned.
 
(quoted from post at 19:21:52 01/16/16) Not the best way but its cheap. Dukes mayo jar that can be used with vacuum. If you get brake fluid in your handheld vacuum pump it will ruin it are its killed all I got brake fluid in...

plow%20bleeder%20013_zpsnbj59pge.jpg


Sum'N like this is cheap enuff...

http://www.zoro.com/westward-brake-...AblaAiuwwtj6HJotQBoCJM3w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

A little more high tech.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/6...Pc7GiKHJJqlpF91j7EX7V2Uo2QwM6EiiV-BoC07fw_wcB

Gravity, pressure are vacuum does not always work sometimes you have to pump'em and then all the stars in the universe have to be aligned.

If I have someone to pump the pedal for me I will always do it that way. Only use the pump when I'm by myself.
 
(quoted from post at 18:56:09 01/16/16) I just use a stick.Open the bleeder, Push the pedal down, place the stick between the steering wheel and pedal to hold the pedal down. Then close the bleeder and remove the stick. repeat.

Sounds like my Goldberg routine Rube. :D

Only I put a piece of plywood or something against the seat front
and cut a length of 2X4 to wedge in and hold the pedal down. Because the soft face of the seat gives a little, you can have a lot of give and take in the 2X4 length.
 

This is how I do it and it works every time. I fill on oil can (see picture) with brake fluid. I hook a clear hose from it to the bleeder. I use a turkey baster to remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder. Then I pump from the bleeder to the master, forces all the air out the master. Once flushed all the way I tighter the bleeder. Start on the brake furthest from the master and work you way to the front ( if you need to do more than one). Easy as pie.

31970.jpg
 
I don't mess around with self bleeders, but rather, simply get someone to pump the pedal for me.

Years of experience with various "pumpers" has taught me that I will need to tell them what I want them to do about three times. I do not open the bleeder before the second or third trial run.

Dean
 
Does you pumping fluid backwards work on ABS brakes?
I was under the impression it is not good for ABS.
 
(quoted from post at 06:19:24 01/18/16) Does you pumping fluid backwards work on ABS brakes?
I was under the impression it is not good for ABS.

It should be the last resort to back flush any brake system.
 
(quoted from post at 19:55:52 01/17/16)
(quoted from post at 01:29:48 01/18/16)
(quoted from post at 06:19:24 01/18/16) Does you pumping fluid backwards work on ABS brakes?
I was under the impression it is not good for ABS.

It should be the last resort to back flush any brake system.

Why?

I will venture a guess here and say that any crud or anything that accumulates in the lines will be pumped into the master cylinder?
 
(quoted from post at 08:55:52 01/18/16)
(quoted from post at 01:29:48 01/18/16)
(quoted from post at 06:19:24 01/18/16) Does you pumping fluid backwards work on ABS brakes?
I was under the impression it is not good for ABS.

It should be the last resort to back flush any brake system.

Why?

What I have to say about it is in this post.. If its yours go goferit. A aged brake hydraulic system is anything but clean, its not possible to flush out the mess with dedicated expensive flushing equipment but is considered the best solution are the best way to service the system.



http://forums.yesterdaystractors.co...postorder=asc&highlight=brake&start=0
 
Dune Country is right, fill the master cylinder, open 1 bleeder screw, go get a cup of coffee, come back in 1/2 hour, tighten the bleeder and move on to the next one. Works on old stuff.
 
I have been a professional mechanic since the 70s. I have used them all. My favorite is a simple check valve, much less messy and quicker to deploy than air bleeders and vacuum setups.. Before these were available we used vacuum check valves from junkyards, they would last a month or so. This style works well. I usually remove the funny clip end, and the check valve can be unscrewed and cleaned out when it gets crud in it. Hook it up in a bottle, open the bleeder 1/4 turn, and slowly pump the pedal with your hand while watching underneath until bubbles stop flowing.


http://www.walmart.com/ip/48806799?...=&wl5=pla&wl6=90252794258&veh=sem
 

Have you had the luxury to use one of these... I don't understand why most shops don't have a decent pressure bleeder of some type. A descent low end set up could be had for $500 are less and it would cover 95% of whats out there... I would not work in a shop that would not buy good equipment and expect me to fiddle fart with DIY gizmos... I know this is a DIY question :cry:

https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/brakes/bg-pf7-brake-service-system/
 
(quoted from post at 10:08:51 01/17/16) I don't mess around with self bleeders, but rather, simply get someone to pump the pedal for me.

Years of experience with various "pumpers" has taught me that I will need to tell them what I want them to do about three times. I do not open the bleeder before the second or third trial run.

Dean

I don't mess around with repeating instructions over and over to helpers. I simply use the tube into the bottle and watch the bubbles method. :)
 
I simply use the tube into the bottle and watch the bubbles method. :)

Another vote for a tube and bottle . I use the soft clear tubing which is cheap from the hardware store . Crack open a bleeder and slip one end of the tubing over the bleeder . Place the other end in the jar . Slowly pump the brakes and watch the bubbles and dirty fluid run into the jar . When the fluid is flowing clearly close the bleeder and remove the hose . Start with the farthest cylinder and work towards the closest .
 
(quoted from post at 11:45:20 04/26/17)
I simply use the tube into the bottle and watch the bubbles method. :)

Another vote for a tube and bottle . I use the soft clear tubing which is cheap from the hardware store . Crack open a bleeder and slip one end of the tubing over the bleeder . Place the other end in the jar . Slowly pump the brakes and watch the bubbles and dirty fluid run into the jar . When the fluid is flowing clearly close the bleeder and remove the hose . Start with the farthest cylinder and work towards the closest .

"Slowly pump the brakes"?

I was taught not to pump the brakes. Pushing the pedal down will expel fluid out of the bleeder valve. Letting the pedal back up with the bleeder valve still open will just suck fluid from the jar back into the line you are trying to bleed.

Open bleeder valve - press brake pedal to the floor

Close bleeder valve and let up on the pedal.

Repeat the above steps until no more bubbles can be seen coming out. Keep an eye on the master cylinder and refill as needed during the bleeding process.

Keep the plastic tube submerged in the brake fluid in the jar.
 
(quoted from post at 13:27:56 01/16/16) No pedal pusher available ? Remember; don't pump the pedal. Pedal down - open bleeder, close bleeder - pedal up. Repeat as necessary. Start at the farthest from the MC. Gravity will do it if you are on your own - takes some time and you have to keep an extra eye on the MC to keep it full. HTH

Remember! pump the pedal! If you have significant air you will have to pump it or like Hobo said your foot will be on the floor and you can damage the MC. So pump until the pedal is up, then hold it until the bleed fitting is opened and then closed. after the first time you will probably not need to pump it up because you will have discharged most of the air.
 
(quoted from post at 12:45:43 01/16/16) On a budget, but don't want to throw money away and have buyer's remorse. But if I'm bleeding brakes by myself on my old truck's drum brakes (I have other vehicles to use this on also) by myself is the bottle at Auto Zone (less than $10) good enough or should I spend more for the pump / vacuum thingy?
Get the cheap pump at Harbor Freight or spend more for Mityvac or comparable brand?
I'm looking for opinions and preferences.
Thanks in advance!

I don't know what is the "best" but what I do know is I just purchased a MityVac MV6835 vacuum bleeder (see pic) and it is wonderful. I've done two semi-annual flushes on the brake system on both my BMW's and used it for two different caliper replacements on other vehicles and never again will I go old school.

TOH

MITMV6835.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 14:06:50 04/26/17)
(quoted from post at 11:45:20 04/26/17)
I simply use the tube into the bottle and watch the bubbles method. :)

Another vote for a tube and bottle . I use the soft clear tubing which is cheap from the hardware store . Crack open a bleeder and slip one end of the tubing over the bleeder . Place the other end in the jar . Slowly pump the brakes and watch the bubbles and dirty fluid run into the jar . When the fluid is flowing clearly close the bleeder and remove the hose . Start with the farthest cylinder and work towards the closest .

"Slowly pump the brakes"?

I was taught not to pump the brakes. Pushing the pedal down will expel fluid out of the bleeder valve. Letting the pedal back up with the bleeder valve still open will just suck fluid from the jar back into the line you are trying to bleed.

Open bleeder valve - press brake pedal to the floor

Close bleeder valve and let up on the pedal.

Repeat the above steps until no more bubbles can be seen coming out. Keep an eye on the master cylinder and refill as needed during the bleeding process.

Keep the plastic tube submerged in the brake fluid in the jar.

Yes , half pump or so , just not to the floor . I let the hose reach the bottom of the jar usually below the fluid level . It pumps out more fluid than it sucks back air but I should have clarified you want a ten foot hose . I don't close the valve until I am done . You could hold your finger over the end of the hose and point it into the jar , while setting in the drivers seat , or a dozen other ways I recon . I use the clear tubing so I can see where all of the dirty fluid is out , which is long after the bubbles are gone . Sometimes it may suck air around the threads but I usually let it gravity flow a little while before closing the valve . How would one man close the valve without letting up on the pedal ?
 
(quoted from post at 15:08:57 04/26/17)
(quoted from post at 14:06:50 04/26/17)
(quoted from post at 11:45:20 04/26/17)
I simply use the tube into the bottle and watch the bubbles method. :)

Another vote for a tube and bottle . I use the soft clear tubing which is cheap from the hardware store . Crack open a bleeder and slip one end of the tubing over the bleeder . Place the other end in the jar . Slowly pump the brakes and watch the bubbles and dirty fluid run into the jar . When the fluid is flowing clearly close the bleeder and remove the hose . Start with the farthest cylinder and work towards the closest .

"Slowly pump the brakes"?

I was taught not to pump the brakes. Pushing the pedal down will expel fluid out of the bleeder valve. Letting the pedal back up with the bleeder valve still open will just suck fluid from the jar back into the line you are trying to bleed.

Open bleeder valve - press brake pedal to the floor

Close bleeder valve and let up on the pedal.

Repeat the above steps until no more bubbles can be seen coming out. Keep an eye on the master cylinder and refill as needed during the bleeding process.

Keep the plastic tube submerged in the brake fluid in the jar.

Yes , half pump or so , just not to the floor . I let the hose reach the bottom of the jar usually below the fluid level . It pumps out more fluid than it sucks back air but I should have clarified you want a ten foot hose . I don't close the valve until I am done . You could hold your finger over the end of the hose and point it into the jar , while setting in the drivers seat , or a dozen other ways I recon . I use the clear tubing so I can see where all of the dirty fluid is out , which is long after the bubbles are gone . Sometimes it may suck air around the threads but I usually let it gravity flow a little while before closing the valve .[b:6768ad0054][color=red:6768ad0054] How would one man close the valve without letting up on the pedal ?[/color:6768ad0054]
/b:6768ad0054]

If I don't use the vacuum pump and do it the old fashion way, I have someone sit in the drivers seat and work the pedal. I never said it was a one man operation.
 
(quoted from post at 17:29:04 04/26/17)
(quoted from post at 15:08:57 04/26/17)
(quoted from post at 14:06:50 04/26/17)
(quoted from post at 11:45:20 04/26/17)
I simply use the tube into the bottle and watch the bubbles method. :)

Another vote for a tube and bottle . I use the soft clear tubing which is cheap from the hardware store . Crack open a bleeder and slip one end of the tubing over the bleeder . Place the other end in the jar . Slowly pump the brakes and watch the bubbles and dirty fluid run into the jar . When the fluid is flowing clearly close the bleeder and remove the hose . Start with the farthest cylinder and work towards the closest .

"Slowly pump the brakes"?

I was taught not to pump the brakes. Pushing the pedal down will expel fluid out of the bleeder valve. Letting the pedal back up with the bleeder valve still open will just suck fluid from the jar back into the line you are trying to bleed.

Open bleeder valve - press brake pedal to the floor

Close bleeder valve and let up on the pedal.

Repeat the above steps until no more bubbles can be seen coming out. Keep an eye on the master cylinder and refill as needed during the bleeding process.

Keep the plastic tube submerged in the brake fluid in the jar.

Yes , half pump or so , just not to the floor . I let the hose reach the bottom of the jar usually below the fluid level . It pumps out more fluid than it sucks back air but I should have clarified you want a ten foot hose . I don't close the valve until I am done . You could hold your finger over the end of the hose and point it into the jar , while setting in the drivers seat , or a dozen other ways I recon . I use the clear tubing so I can see where all of the dirty fluid is out , which is long after the bubbles are gone . Sometimes it may suck air around the threads but I usually let it gravity flow a little while before closing the valve .[b:84f251753b][color=red:84f251753b] How would one man close the valve without letting up on the pedal ?[/color:84f251753b]
/b:84f251753b]

If I don't use the vacuum pump and do it the old fashion way, I have someone sit in the drivers seat and work the pedal. I never said it was a one man operation.

OK , confusion on my part . The original poster asked about bleeding brakes by yourself .
 
(quoted from post at 11:45:43 01/16/16) On a budget, but don't want to throw money away and have buyer's remorse. But if I'm bleeding brakes by myself on my old truck's drum brakes (I have other vehicles to use this on also) by myself is the bottle at Auto Zone (less than $10) good enough or should I spend more for the pump / vacuum thingy?
Get the cheap pump at Harbor Freight or spend more for Mityvac or comparable brand?
I'm looking for opinions and preferences.
Thanks in advance!

Dorman and others make a bleeder screw with a built in one way valve . You remove your screw and screw in the speed bleed valve and pump the brakes then replace back to original .

I have a bin full of them but never use them . It is easier for me to grab the one size fits all hose than to figure out which size I need , metric/sae .


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-HELP...item234373c60a:g:-D8AAOSwR0JUTpp~&vxp=mtr
 
(quoted from post at 05:52:39 04/27/17)
(quoted from post at 11:45:43 01/16/16) On a budget, but don't want to throw money away and have buyer's remorse. But if I'm bleeding brakes by myself on my old truck's drum brakes (I have other vehicles to use this on also) by myself is the bottle at Auto Zone (less than $10) good enough or should I spend more for the pump / vacuum thingy?
Get the cheap pump at Harbor Freight or spend more for Mityvac or comparable brand?
I'm looking for opinions and preferences.
Thanks in advance!

Dorman and others make a bleeder screw with a built in one way valve . You remove your screw and screw in the speed bleed valve and pump the brakes then replace back to original .

I have a bin full of them but never use them . It is easier for me to grab the one size fits all hose than to figure out which size I need , metric/sae .


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-HELP...item234373c60a:g:-D8AAOSwR0JUTpp~&vxp=mtr

Hmmm....their list of compatible vehicles only goes up to year 2006. 11 years out of date?
 
As a kid before I learned the gravity method I had my mom be the pumper, could not get any pressure, looked at this tightened that after a 1/2 hour or so I looked in and asked her which pedal she was pumping, it was the clutch :roll:
 
(quoted from post at 15:45:15 04/27/17) As a kid before I learned the gravity method I had my mom be the pumper, could not get any pressure, looked at this tightened that after a 1/2 hour or so I looked in and asked her which pedal she was pumping, it was the clutch :roll:

:lol: and ouch.
 
(quoted from post at 13:45:15 04/27/17) As a kid before I learned the gravity method I had my mom be the pumper, could not get any pressure, looked at this tightened that after a 1/2 hour or so I looked in and asked her which pedal she was pumping, it was the clutch :roll:

I remember helping to push a truck so my buddy could pop the clutch and start it . After ten minutes of exhaustion we asked "do you have the key turned on " We were too tired to choke him .
 

Back when I was married, my wife was in town and couldn't get the old pick up started so she called me.

I told her to put it in second gear and hold in the clutch and let up on it when I honked the horn. Well after four or five tries at that, I finally stopped to investigate further.

Come to find out that she forgot all about the "letting up on the clutch" part. :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:

At least she had the key on.
 

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