1948 8n ford pictures.

I bought this 1948 8n a week ago. Good paint brush paint job. The fellow took the governor off to use on another tractor. Engine is free but unknown condition. I know it takes the governor with out the proof meter gear but if I buy one with the proof meter gear and buy a proof meter, cable, drill hole for meter will it work okay. Also he said it had electronic ignition which is off the tractor. I know nothing about that. It looks as though it just bolts on the front. He said you couldn't hook it up wrong but ive been known to defy the odds. Sheet metal is pretty good. grill is damage some but shouldn't be too bad to fix. Has antifreeze In it. Very nice rear tires. Looks to be all original with tool box. Skinny front tires just okay. Any input on this would be appreciated.

" if I buy one with the proof meter gear and buy a proof meter, cable, drill hole for meter will it work okay"

All of the new governors are set up for a proofmeter, They just have a cap on them if you don't have a proofmeter.

If you really are intent on adding a proofmeter to the tractor, you need a new dash board; the proofmeter will not fit the old dashboard. If you need to know rpm's, get a cheap tach.

" Also he said it had electronic ignition which is off the tractor."

Take the rotor & dust cap off to see; if it has a module & no points, it's got EI.

" It looks as though it just bolts on the front."

He is talking about the distributor, not the EI. The EI (if it has it) is INSIDE the distributor.

" He said you couldn't hook it up wrong "

Yep, you sure can do it wrong. It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. Whatever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts). Place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush with the timing gear cover.

" Has antifreeze In it."

How much? I'd check it to see if it's 50/50
75 Tips

I haven't looked inside the distributor so if I read your comment right this is just the front mounted distributor that will have either points or a module either way it will just bolt up but needs to be aligned properly. Guess I was thinking it had a distributor like the 50n I have. It not full of anti freeze but when I opened the block drain plug is came out nice dark green. Not sure about the proof meter yet. Hopefully some time next week I can try to start it. I guess until I do that I wont really know if I got a good or bad deal. Thanks Norm

If you're going to try and start it with out the governor you need to block the oil line. Alao, if it hasn't been run in a while, you should put some MMO in cylinders in case the rings are stuck. Make sure it turns by hand before you try to spin it with the starter.
75 Tips

Not sure what MMO is. norm

Marvel Mystery Oil

Marvel mystery oil. If you don't have any use atf. Automatic transmission fluid.
75 Tips

Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) is one of many 'snake-oil' products sold today that make claims of improved running engines. The truth is most, if not all, of those products use plain mineral oil (i.e. mineral spirits) as up to 99% of their main ingredients. You can use plain old charcoal lighter as that is the same thing. Mineral spirits will loosen up gunk so yeah, the MMO stuff may or may not work, but for the money, with mineral spirits at about $10 per gallon, you are saving money buying plain mineral spirits. The ATF will work too as Bruce mentioned so whatever you can afford and have handy should work. An original hand crank is handy to spin the engine before trying to crank it too. Also, since you're new, we recommend you get yourself some manuals and read them like a bedside Bible.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000"></td></tr><tr><td></td><td></td></tr></table>

Thanks. Didn't think about the manual crank. ive got 6/7 old cranks. maybe one will work. The alternator is missing so that would be the way to try to turn it or grab the bottom pulley and turn. Thought that was what it stood for but just wasn't sure. I will put some in tomorrow. Just installed rings in my other last wed so try to get it started now, think I got a carb problem..i rebuilt it but never had very good luck in rebuilding carbs. Thanks Norm