Update on my 8N

Was having two problems...still have one

1. Pressure plate stuck to flywheel
solved this one by driving the tractor out in my pasture where I had some open space, put it 3 gear (couldn't get it in 4th) opened the throttle wide open then stepped on both the clutch and the brakes(s). After about three 20' tire slides it broke loose. This obviously works better if you have good brakes.

2. Smoking out the exhaust (grey oily)
Dry compression 97, 100, 100,102
Wet compression 130 125 130 130
So why the smoke?

" Pressure plate stuck to flywheel"

That would be the clutch disc stuck to the flywheel. And once that happens, it's very likely to happen again, so block the clutch.

" So why the smoke? "

What do the plugs look like?
75 Tips

NCnative.......why the smoke? yer suckin' oil thru the valve stems. Need SEALS on the intake valve stems. Usually there are 8-seals innna headgasket kit. Exhaust valves don't need seals, they don't suck, they BURN. As far as I know, you kent replace valve seals without removing the head. It should be intuitively obvious, remove the head, replace the head gasket........Dell
BTW.......Ford specs fer compression is 90psi (min) New valves and seats are about 125psi, yer wet and dry compression readings are just fine

could be running rich, and as Del writes -ex valve stem seals.makes good black smoke,just a thought. Richard

Thanks for correcting my post, yes, clutch disk makes more sense.

Other than eventually fouling the plugs and burning some oil is there any harm in running it with bad intake seals? I have about 4 hours of work I would like to use it for ASAP

No, it won't hurt anything.

Do check the oil.

But......

I asked about the plugs.

Tell us exactly what they look like.

Grey (steam cleaned) means water.

Oily black means oil.

Dry black is mixture.

You can easily fix a mixture problem.
75 Tips

I ran the tractor for about four hours yesterday. It was smoking some for the first hour but by the time I quit it did not seem to be smoking any more?
I put in new H12 spark plugs before I started it up. The old H10 plugs were sooty black but did not appear oily? What adjustment would have to be made to address this? Tractor runs well

" What adjustment would have to be made to address this?"

The carburetor.

Make sure the tractor is at operating temp; that usually takes 10 ? 15 minutes at idle depending on ambient temp.

Both Ford and Marvel/Schebler (assuming you have a M/S carb ) say to set both the side-pointing idlemix and the down-pointing mainjet to 1-turn as a starting point. I set the down-pointing mainjet to 1-1/2 turns and don't fool w/ it until the final step.

Then adjust the side-pointing idlemix for fastest idle; not the smoothest idle. Next, adjust the behind the carb idle-speed set-screw for very slow 400-rpms idle. Do that idlemix adjust for maximum idle at least 3-times. Make sure that you turn the screws slowly, like 1/8 of a turn at a time & wait a second or two for the engine to catch up. Take your time!

Do it like this:

1. Adjust idle mix jet until RPM increases

2. Adjust idle-mix set screw until the engine nearly stops (as slow as you can get it unless you have a tach that tells you 400 rpm)

Repeat steps 1 - 3 three times.

Remember the side-pointing idlemix is out for lean, in for rich.

If you do not have any problems inside the carb, it is easy to get the idle down to 350 - 400 rpms.

Your last step is to go back to the main jet. Remember, in for lean, out for rich. If you end up turning it OUT more than ? turn for max power (remember, you already had it 1 ? turns out) then stop right there because you have a dirty carb or a fuel problem.
75 Tips

Thanks I will try this soon....weather permitting