Little screw press bead breakers any good?


Swore I'd never change a tire again but a trip to the tractor store has me reconsidering - they want $170 just to make one good tire/rim out of two bad ones. Nobody around here seems to specialize in tractor tires, so I guess the ones that will touch them at all feel free to gouge. Seeing as how I tend to use old tires on rims people give me, and have a weakness for reusing tubes if they look alright, at $170 a pop things could get expensive.

So am looking for some tools that might make it easier. The little Easco-style ratchet-drived screw gadgets look interesting, anyone try one? Not cheap but would pay for themselves on the first job at local prices.

I got shoulder issues so hammering/smashing things are out.
 
Kyle I bought a Little Buddy bead breaker like this one
Just drives under the rim lip, clamps on the rim and then screws down.
It has worked pretty well on all but the most stubborn of beads.
Sometimes have to move it around the rim to different spots.

It can be hard to get under the rim if you have wide tires.
Like 13.6's on a 9 inch rim. It won't fit.

It says not to use an impact wrench on it, but I do.
Doing so may be what caused the roll pin to sheer in the top nut.
I have replaced that roll pin twice and have nearly wore the
tool completely out now. I will likely replace it with the same thing.
 
I have been doing my own tire work for a long time and have tried all sorts of contrivances, tools, doohickys and devices.
For me NOTHING works as well as driving into the tire with your pickup.
Lay the tire flat and drive onto the tire - right along the edge of the rim. Steer around the rim so your pu tire scrapes the tractor rim.
I leave the drivers door open so I can see what I'm doing better.
I guarantee you this us the easiest, cheapest, fastest way to break down a tire.
Try it once and see for yourself.
 
That's the way my dad did it too Jerry.
Until he drove on one and it flipped up and took out his fender.
Headlight, turn signal, marker light etc. All smashed.
I was away in the service by that time so I didn't see it happen.
Can't say what went wrong, but he never did another one that way.
 
I drive a 3/4 ton so that might make a difference - harder tires.
I've never had it fail. Even on some really snarly ones. Bigger ones too 30"/38" etc.
 
Hmm.. Wonder if our Rav4 will be up to the job. Hate to use the Mini.
I got a spare rim and tire, so I could try it with the tractor itself.
 
Kyle, I'll second Royse, I bought the same tool and changed a tire with the rim still on the tractor without any difficulty. Also, get yourself a valve fishing tool with a long length on it.
 
Little Buddy, that's the name. Made by AIM. There's another one, from Esco, that seems to be identical.

Good to hear of your positive experiences. They both get good feedback on Northern and Amazon.
 
Here is one that looks like it would work good.Next rear tire that I do I'm going to try it out.
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Rav 4 tire probably won't work.
What are the tires, maybe 35 psi?
I run the fronts on my Chevy pretty close to the top - maybe 65 psi. Much harder tire that can put more force along the edge of the tractor rim and mash the tire down.
I'm also heavier.
Using a tractor to drive onto another tractor tire to break the bead is also a big waste of time. Even a big tractor.
Tractor tires are fairly soft and deform over a broad area so you can't focus the weight right along the rim where you need it.
A buddy with bigger than a half ton could do it for you though.
Brother? Neighbor?
Sometimes on a tough one you have to back off, turn the tire 60 degrees and take another bite.
It does work good.
Cheap too.
 
i too tried all kinds of homespun ways to break a tire bead, hi-lift jack , using the front end loader while helped by a spotter, driving over the tire with a truck, or other tractor ect, all work to a degree, but one failure and the collateral damage cost more than just buying a slide hammer type bead breaker, dont skimp here get the big one, you'll be glad you did ,then you can break any bead from garden tractor to semi truck, its worth the money , a tire hammer will work too but i always miss and hit the rim lol
 
Just occurred to me to check the Operator's Manual, and notice they have a modified version of the drive-over-it method, where they suggest jacking up the front of the tractor, sliding the rear wheel under the front, and lowering the jack. Probably not as effective as the drive over method since you don't get the dynamic benefit of the tire squirming and rattling, but on the other hand you can aim much more precisely, and get the weight just where you want it. Think I'll put a couple of extra psi in my 6x16 fronts and give it a try.
 
(quoted from post at 13:47:26 11/16/15) Just occurred to me to check the Operator's Manual, and notice they have a modified version of the drive-over-it method, where they suggest jacking up the front of the tractor, sliding the rear wheel under the front, and lowering the jack. Probably not as effective as the drive over method since you don't get the dynamic benefit of the tire squirming and rattling, but on the other hand you can aim much more precisely, and get the weight just where you want it. Think I'll put a couple of extra psi in my 6x16 fronts and give it a try.

I can tell you from first hand experience that a tractor will not work. I just tried it last week with my 860 trying to break a 13.6x28 rear. Did nothing.
 

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