Screw size for the small screw that holds the fuel shutoff?

Big Trees · Oct 12, 2015

Was on the N yesterday real briefly and when I parked it and went to shut off fuel at the sediment bowl I noticed the small, gray shutoff knob was missing. Luckily we found that but do not have a screw small enough to put it back on and hold it.

Does anybody know the size of that screw that holds the knob on? I need to buy one and have no idea what size it is.

Any help would be appreciated, as it always is. Thanks.

Den N Ms · Oct 12, 2015

Big Trees,You might try a 8/32x1/4" and a 10/32x1/4" I'm thinking it is 8/32x1/4" but not sure.Then again if it is from China it could be anything.

Den N Ms · Oct 12, 2015

Big Trees,If you find a screw to fit,put some loctite on the screw to keep it from backing out again.If your fuel tank was empty you could loosen the packing nut,screw the stem out and take it with you to the hardware store.

Big Trees · Oct 12, 2015

(quoted from post at 18:13:16 10/12/15) Big Trees,If you find a screw to fit,put some loctite on the screw to keep it from backing out again.If your fuel tank was empty you could loosen the packing nut,screw the stem out and take it with you to the hardware store.

Thank you for the reply and the advice, Den N Ms. Unfortunately the tank is not empty so I'll buy both of those sizes of screws and hopefully one will work. If not at least I have a starting point to work with. I will use locktite per your suggestion so it won't happen again.

I appreciate the help! Thanks a lot!

old · Oct 12, 2015

I lost the thumb wheel and the screw decades ago on my 8N so I just keep a pair of pliers in the tool box to turn it on . Plus that way since I leave the key in it I do not have to worry to bad about some one messing with it. Ya like that would happen where I live LOL

JMOR · Oct 12, 2015

(quoted from post at 21:41:30 10/12/15)

(quoted from post at 18:13:16 10/12/15) Big Trees,If you find a screw to fit,put some loctite on the screw to keep it from backing out again.If your fuel tank was empty you could loosen the packing nut,screw the stem out and take it with you to the hardware store.

Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply and the advice, Den N Ms. Unfortunately the tank is not empty so I'll buy both of those sizes of screws and hopefully one will work. If not at least I have a starting point to work with. I will use locktite per your suggestion so it won't happen again.

I appreciate the help! Thanks a lot!

expect that you will find those both to be far too large. I would try #4

ScoutB · Oct 12, 2015

If you have a set of drill bits you can narrow it down some by finding the largest that fits in the threaded hole and comparing it to this chart. Between the tap drill chart and the decimal equivalent chart you can get close.

If you have a number drill index you can narrow it down even farther. A fractional drill index will help you find the size but probably not the pitch.

Tom Bowman · Oct 13, 2015

(quoted from post at 20:11:14 10/12/15) Was on the N yesterday real briefly and when I parked it and went to shut off fuel at the sediment bowl I noticed the small, gray shutoff knob was missing. Luckily we found that but do not have a screw small enough to put it back on and hold it.

Does anybody know the size of that screw that holds the knob on? I need to buy one and have no idea what size it is.

Any help would be appreciated, as it always is. Thanks.

Big Trees, if you haven't found that screw yet, I have a couple of spares in my Sediment Bowl Spare Parts Department. Send me your address, and I'll drop it in the mail. My e-mail is open in Modern View.

Big Trees · Oct 13, 2015

I'm just getting to the computer today and I appreciate all of your help.

ScoutB- Thanks for that picture, that will be some use to me in the future.

Tom - I sincerely appreciate the kind gesture! I have not found one and I will send you my name and address and I will send back shipping cost to you. I can't thank you enough for offering that! Very Very nice of you!!

Tom Bowman · Oct 14, 2015

It's in the mail, Jeff.

Just out of curiosity, I checked for a screw at the hardware store: it's smaller than a #4, or it's a non-standard thread, or maybe both. I couldn't get a #4 to thread into the stem properly.

Big Trees · Oct 14, 2015

(quoted from post at 10:33:23 10/14/15) It's in the mail, Jeff.

Just out of curiosity, I checked for a screw at the hardware store: it's smaller than a #4, or it's a non-standard thread, or maybe both. I couldn't get a #4 to thread into the stem properly.

I sincerely appreciate you, sir. And thanks for the further information. I will let you know if it fits my N.

Thanks a lot, Tom!

Rodeo man · Oct 14, 2015

Do they make one that doesn't have the little wheel, and screw? I have seen one somewhere that had a valve on it. Might have even been here. Wish I could find one like that.

Tim PloughNman Daley RIP · Oct 15, 2015

HiYa Rodeo-
Yes, the early 9Ns used a brass fuel valve/sediment bowl that had a lever that opened to one side to the MAIN and to the other side for RESERVE. They were prone to leaking but if you can find this rare gem, you can fix that leaking issue by cutting an undercut on the internal stem and place an oil/gas resistant O-RING over it. There are some commercial products that claim to stop leaks but they only work temporarily.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">

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9N%20BRASS%20FUEL%20SEDIMENT%20BOWL_zpssigfdrcx.jpeg

Rodeo man · Oct 15, 2015

That's it. If it's a rare gem, I might as well stop looking.

Big Trees · Oct 15, 2015

That is interesting. I would rather have one of those lever setups also. Thanks for sharing.

Tim PloughNman Daley RIP · Oct 16, 2015

I found half dozen a few years ago but have since sold all but two. I need one to go on my early 9N project so need to get one good one out of them. I'll probably sell the other but that is a ways down the road. May get both working and just keep a spare too.

Tim 'PloughNman' Daley(MI)

Rodeo man · Oct 16, 2015

You'd think with all the aftermarket, and repop stuff available there'd be a new one out there somewhere.

Tim PloughNman Daley RIP · Oct 16, 2015

HiYa BIG-
OK, I was at the farm/shop today and took an old sediment bowl assembly apart to verify. That screw is a 6-32 x 1/4" long pan head screw -standard part at Fastenal or any other supply house. Uses a star washer too. Also as stated, always use a dab of Loctite on a new one when replacing valve stem assembly. You can use the Permanent type of Loctite as you won't ever have to take it off again and it doesn't interfere with anything else. These never use to fall out -just something that has happened about ten years ago when the cheaper Cheena stuff started showing up. I cringe when I see a valve shaft stem all boogered up because the screw fell out and the knurled wheel fell off too so instead of fixing the darn thing properly, owner opts to just use pliers to turn it on and off. This eventually crushes the square brass stem so if he does get a new wheel and screw, he can't use them and ends up buying a whole new valve stem assembly. When I work on a guys tractor in my shop and see that, I'll replace the stem with an old use one if I have one and Loctite the screw in for him. I despise hackers and hack jobs. FYI -Tap Drill size is #36 (.1065")for a 6-32 thread. Hope this helps ya...

Tim 'PloughNman' Daley(MI)

Big Trees · Oct 16, 2015

Thanks for the replies and advice. It did educate me and I thank you for that. When I receive the screw in the mail I'm going to give it a shot and if it doesn't work then I'll head up to town and look for one.

Thank you all for the help.

NoNewParts · Oct 17, 2015

(quoted from post at 18:13:17 10/16/15) HiYa BIG-
OK, I was at the farm/shop today and took an old sediment bowl assembly apart to verify. That screw is a 6-32 x 1/4" long pan head screw -standard part at Fastenal or any other supply house. Uses a star washer too. Also as stated, always use a dab of Loctite on a new one when replacing valve stem assembly. You can use the Permanent type of Loctite as you won't ever have to take it off again and it doesn't interfere with anything else. These never use to fall out -just something that has happened about ten years ago when the cheaper Cheena stuff started showing up. I cringe when I see a valve shaft stem all boogered up because the screw fell out and the knurled wheel fell off too so instead of fixing the darn thing properly, owner opts to just use pliers to turn it on and off. This eventually crushes the square brass stem so if he does get a new wheel and screw, he can't use them and ends up buying a whole new valve stem assembly. When I work on a guys tractor in my shop and see that, I'll replace the stem with an old use one if I have one and Loctite the screw in for him. I despise hackers and hack jobs. FYI -Tap Drill size is #36 (.1065")for a 6-32 thread. Hope this helps ya...

Tim 'PloughNman' Daley(MI)

good pic
hard to judge exact size from it, but...junk box...
how about a points or condenser hold down screw?
old computer case, or add-in board hold down screw?

Tim PloughNman Daley RIP · Oct 17, 2015

Big-
No guessing involved -used pure logic and actually took the time to disassemble one, measure it, then find the size on a drill and tap chart. The tap shown in the picture was used to verify the thread pitch and is actually the correct one for that screw size. The Condenser Hold Down Screw on the front mount distributor (you didn't specify) is Ford Tractor part number 31802-S7... 8-32 x 1/4" Fillister Head Machine Screw with a 34802 No. 8 lockwasher. The Breaker plate adjustment screw is p/n 350101-S7... 10-32 x 1/2" and uses p/n 34803-S7... No. 10 lockwasher. All these are standard parts available at any industrial fastener supply house. The parts are easily found in the Master Parts Catalog too -highly recommended to get one. I would not try any thing from an old computer or new one for that matter as chances are it'll be metric.

Tim

Tall T · Oct 17, 2015

Big,

I thought everyone had a 35 year old jar of small screws from distributors etc., to draw from. I used a brass one when I made this shut off knob. I bought the modern replacement shut off but haven't bothered putting it on as my OEM only weeps when open too wide.

Big Trees · Oct 19, 2015

Thank you all for the replies and the advice. The screw Tom sent me did work so I'm no longer looking for this screw.

Tom, thank you very much! That was very kind of you! It is sincerely appreciated.

Screw size for the small screw that holds the fuel shutoff?

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