OT-half a million!

My Silverado will never last as long as my 8N but it's got more miles on it. Just wanted to share this picture. We can still build them to last. This is the odometer of my 2000 Silverado 1500 that was purchased new in Nov. 1999. A lot of these miles were earned pulling my boat to and from my Crappie Hole!
 
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Congratulations..., you obviously know about preventive maintenance. My 2000 Tundra is about to turn 250K with the only non-scheduled item being a left rear inner axle grease seal. My 8N is going strong, no telling how many hours of use.
 
Fairly impressive really, and you likely have kept it maintained fairly well to surpass that milestone. Might be just me, but that service engine light would drive me crazy though.
 
Thanks Ron-MO but I have been able to ignore the check engine lights. They are for knock sensors. I have replaced them but code comes back. A mechanic taught me how to "cheat" my way through emmisions. I have cheated through for six years in a row.
 
If you have to cheat your way thru emissions, you should fix it or replace it and if you have to do that then your 500000 miles mean little to me.
 

Did you replace the knock sensor harness at the time of knock sensor replacement...

The last one I did I did not get the new harness fasten to one good enough. It went 36 miles and turned the light back on :cry:

It always amazes me how fast I can fix a fudge up... Done it in 1 hr.. BTW you can ohm out the harness it should read 99 OHMs on either sensor... Unplug the harness at the top of the intake its just 2 wires one for either sensor...
 
Bob,

For a second there I was wondering why you were hauling your boat back and forth to the outhouse . . .

then I realized Crappie was an american fish! :D
 
I did change harness when i did knock sensors. Don't remember how far it went before setting codes again. No sense in doing it again as my engine rattles enough to set
off my neighbors knock sensor. Sounds like shakin a can of gravel and oil pressure is leaving fast. Just wanted to get to half a mill before engine swap.
 
Bob,

Like with the unconstitutionality of income tax, emission testing is a joke and so anything goes.

they test a diesel for the same standards as a gas machine with no regard for the fact that diesels pump out:
Sulfur trioxide (all it needs is H2O to form H2So4)
Acetaldehyde
Acrolene
Butadeine (used to make synthetic rubber)
Formaldehyde
Dioxin (an LA county sherriff sent me the proof of that)
Soot (that's just the visible carbon)

And to top off the scam completely, they test for beautiful CO2.
when WHATEVER CO2 you are putting out, all of plant life is grateful to you for!

These caring fellows who control those who set the pretentious standards, actually got the EPA to declare CO2 a "toxic waste"!!!

So cheat away with a clean conscience.

Too much truth here, so this post will be reported by someone and deleted. It's my B-day and I'll rant if I want to. :D
 
Wow! Thanks Tall T but that much info has cramped my brain. Have a terrific birthday and take a ride on your N just for enjoyment sake. And don't worry, my conscience is
clear about getting through emmisions.
 
(quoted from post at 23:40:04 10/12/15) I did change harness when i did knock sensors. Don't remember how far it went before setting codes again. No sense in doing it again as my engine rattles enough to set
off my neighbors knock sensor. Sounds like shakin a can of gravel and oil pressure is leaving fast. Just wanted to get to half a mill before engine swap.

OK, I understand...
 
Thanks Bob,

I've been joking with my friends today that they have to give thanks for me today cause this year Canadian Thanksgiving falls on my B-day.:D The last time that happened was in 2009 and the next time is 2020.

The GVRD (the Vancouver municipal government) invited me to come over and speak in 1990 and I did. I was shaking in my boots having to speak to 50 people, two of whom were Ballard of Hydrogen Cell fame and the head of the Canadian Petroleum industry (who gave me a pat on the back) but I squeaked through. One thing I said was, " I know that diesel combustion pumps out Aldehydes from when my father was an underground gold miner; he told me that they had water-filled filters on the diesel compressors to trap the aldehydes. Why isn't it common public knowledge what these aldehydes are?"

Aldehydes are hydrophylic; i.e., they have an affinity for water
-- if that's the right word -- so they turn to liquid if passed through water. But my dad said they neglected the filters and hardly ever changed the water.

Well it worked, cause the next new 50 page report they sent me, calling me C.A.D.E (Citizens Against Diesel Emissions) the list of diesel emissions now included "Formaldehyde and Acetaldehyde." the woman who coordinated the speakers said I was the reason that happened. Felt good.

The big 70 is next year. :D

Terry
 
"It's a Chevy.
Why are you surprised"

It's a Chevy, that's EXACTLY why I would be surprised!
Here we go with the brand wars! LOL

Congrats Bob, not many of us get half a mil out of any brand.
It has earned its keep, be it a new engine or a rebuild.
From my experience another one like it won't be the same.
 

I'd be interested to know what oil you use?

There was a guy before at a mechanic shop getting his work trucks serviced and he was bragging about how many miles his trucks had and he gave all of the credit to Mobil 1 full sythetic oil. Coincidentally that had been the oil I had been using for a period of time as well so that stuck with me. Not sure how much the oil had to do with it but he swore by it.
 
Kudos! We have to drive 'em hard to see mileage like that up here. They rust out first. Darn road salt.

Colin, MN
 
(quoted from post at 07:08:27 10/13/15) "It's a Chevy.
Why are you surprised"

It's a Chevy, that's EXACTLY why I would be surprised!
Here we go with the brand wars! LOL

Congrats Bob, not many of us get half a mil out of any brand.
It has earned its keep, be it a new engine or a rebuild.
From my experience another one like it won't be the same.

Chebby trucks are my bread and butter everyone should own one are two of'em the more the better :D

I assume it has a 5.3 some are OK but others are a dud... I would think it has a chit load of road miles on it to make it 500K... That's allot of listing to talk radio,,, I am not smart enough to chiefer out how much time that is in the saddle...

Unless I wanted to buy it again I would jump and click my heels and retire it...
 
(quoted from post at 21:46:52 10/12/15) Kudos! We have to drive 'em hard to see mileage like that up here. They rust out first. Darn road salt.

Colin, MN

Same here. That engine would have to be on it's third truck to get that many miles in Michigan.

Congrats Bob. You get bragging rights for sure, obviously a well cared for engine.
 
(quoted from post at 22:03:18 10/12/15)
(quoted from post at 07:08:27 10/13/15) "It's a Chevy.
Why are you surprised"

It's a Chevy, that's EXACTLY why I would be surprised!
Here we go with the brand wars! LOL

Congrats Bob, not many of us get half a mil out of any brand.
It has earned its keep, be it a new engine or a rebuild.
From my experience another one like it won't be the same.

Chebby trucks are my bread and butter everyone should own one are two of'em the more the better :D

I assume it has a 5.3 some are OK but others are a dud... I would think it has a chit load of road miles on it to make it 500K... That's allot of listing to talk radio,,, I am not smart enough to chiefer out how much time that is in the saddle...

Unless I wanted to buy it again I would jump and click my heels and retire it...
Ya, I hear what you're saying. Many other things coming up.

It's a bit rare to get anywhere near that around here due to rust.
My brother is driving a '98 Durango with 300K+ on it, but the
body is about to fall off. My '78 Trailduster went 250K+ before
the seats fell through the floor. I took the 440 out and built a 1/8
mile dirt track race car around it. It did not race well BTW. Duh.

My current 2008 Ford F150 is pushing 150K, no issues so far
other than that stupid vacuum 4x4 actuator.

Good and bad in them all, but 500K on a gasser is great IMHO.
 
Good and bad in them all, but 500K on a gasser is great IMHO.

IMHO that is good on anything, especially modern diesels if you are considering the last 10 years or so.
 
It's a 5.3 Hobo and I have another 5.3 to put in this weekend. It has 135000 and came out of a wrecked 04 Avalanche. I am on my third transmission. It is a 4L60E. I
bought a kit and did it myself. I have about 60000 on this transmission and so far so good except my back up lights don't work. I was told it has something to do with the
tranmission wiring and I'm not dropping the trans to see. When I swap engines is the time for that.
 
I used Mobil 1 for the 1st few years because my company paid for it. I bought the truck from them when they went out of business and just used a brand name after that
with changes at 5000 mi. I will be swapping engines this weekend. I'm anxious to do a post-mortem on this one to see the wear. It took three transmissions to get to this
point and alot of these were highway miles.
 
That's awesome on the mileage. I consider 200,000 miles on a vehicle as an absolute minimum one should be able to attain if they put a little effort into it. I wish you could be talked into repairing the truck though so you wouldn't have to trick or cheat your way through emissions.
 
When it comes to longevity in both personal health and engine life, give me LP or give me death. :)

A friend of mine who just retired after 30 years as our Island Highways main machinery mechanic -- he's the guy who helped me pick up my tires after the tire jockey beat up my Ford Hat rims -- passed me on the way into the auto parts store about 20 years ago and he says, "Well, I believe you know."

I said I didn't know what he was referring to and he says, "I just took the heads off of a 350 chev with 150,000 miles on it and there was no perceptible cylinder wall ridge to speak of!"

Years earlier when he owned the old Esso station, I had talked him into running his 68 GMC running on Amsoil and I had told him about why propane engines last so long; i.e., no more wet fuel washing down the cylinder walls, fouling the plugs, contaminating the oil.

I was driving a '53 Chev 3/4 ton Flat Deck at the time.
 
(quoted from post at 20:46:01 10/13/15) It's a 5.3 Hobo and I have another 5.3 to put in this weekend. It has 135000 and came out of a wrecked 04 Avalanche. I am on my third transmission. It is a 4L60E. I
bought a kit and did it myself. I have about 60000 on this transmission and so far so good except my back up lights don't work. I was told it has something to do with the
tranmission wiring and I'm not dropping the trans to see. When I swap engines is the time for that.

If you are going to do it yourself I would have all new exhaust bolts/nuts/studs on hand... The lead off pipe nuts and studs are not common hardware the manifold bolts that retain the manifolds are known to break... Hew hardware is not cheap...

The original water pump to block seals have killed a many good water pump. The came out with a hard paper gasket to replace the aluminum type with a silicon seal that is a know leaker... The problem is I have not seen the new type replacement gasket other than it comes with a new water pump..

This the original P.O.S. poor excuse for a gasket no matter what you do it will fail in time and leak...

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-water-pump-gasket-35635/15780035-P

The injector o-rings were they go into the manifold are also a know leaker... It will cause lean codes I always reseal the injector rail WHY because I was the last one to fudge with it...

I would put a couple new heater hose quick connectors at the heater core they will break with no warning... With the engine out its EZ...

I like those continuous compression hose clamps use a paint marker and mark them so you can put them back were they originally were... If I were swap'N a engine I would not mark them I would order up new OEM hoses they come with new clamps and indexed... Aftermarket hoses are junk I consider them a emergency repair... OEM hoses are not cheap...

The replacement engine would get a new oil pan gasket and rear seal... You can crack the oil pan while tighten it up pull all the bolts up envyingly...

One of the converter bolt holes that go thru the flywheel is the master it will not be round the other two will be round... Start the master with straight sides first and nail it tight the others will be in perfect alignment :wink:
 
Not surprizing here, We just took 1 in on trade in, got 498891 miles on it, used Valvoline 10W30 in it the whole time. I usually run them 300000 then give them to the boys who constantly run them another 200000 + miles.
 
I can tell you don't live in the north.
Most only make it to 250,000 to 350,000 before they no longer pass inspection from the rust.
A co-worker has a 2010 PU with a half rusted out box.
 

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