Tractor feels like it's in limp mode

csulaguy

Member
Hello all,

I just bought my first tractor less than a week ago. Checked the serial number (which was hard to make out), and it appears to be a 1941 Ford 9N. Already changed the oil and filter, cleaned out the air oil bath, replaced plugs, a faulty alternator, and put in a new battery (been converted by the previous owner(s) to a 12V system).

I ordered a radiator and water pump from here, and a thermostat from Napa because my radiator started boiling over, with steam coming out of the top vent and bottom right side of the radiator (when viewed from the driver's seat). With that said, I waited about 90-120 minutes for the tractor to cool down and then refilled the radiator with water so I could drive it back to my driveway to work on it. It felt like it was in limp mode, and even with the engine hot, I felt like I was getting a little more power with the choke out than with the tractor running normally, even with the throttle at 2/3rds and in 2nd gear (had a brush hog, PTO disconnected, raised up so it wasn't dragging). It didn't feel this way before.

Just wanted to get feedback from the seasoned vets on here to see if this is just related to the engine not being properly cooled. Next on the list of to-do's is changing the hydraulic fluid, as I believe it might have some water/condensation in there.
 
I ordered a rebuild kit, as some of the plug wires might need to be changed. I'll be checking the points and whatnot next week. Until then, I'm presuming I'd be best not starting it back up?

This might be a little off topic, but I have a small leak in my sediment bowl. I bought a new one from TSC and was fixing to drain my fuel and put a new one one. I don't know if that could also be possibly impeding fuel flow to the carb?
 
Check fuel flow to the carb by removing the drain plug in the bottom of it. It should fill a pint jar in 2 to 3 minutes. Only open the fuel shutoff knob two full turns. If you open it all the way you will be drawing the emergency fuel off the bottom of the tank.
A leak at the sediment bowl will not interfere with fuel flow, just make a mess and lose fuel
 
As R Gieger said, you probably got water in the distributor.

Pull it off, dry it out w/ the hair dryer.

And while it's out, you can check/replace the points & set the timing and replace the rotor & cap. (if you don't know how, just ask)

You probably need a gasket set for the distributor as well.

And means it's a new tractor for you, see tip # 39.

There is a reason it over heated; see tip # 25. It may be time to drain & flush the radiator & block.
DSC03063.jpg

75 Tips
 
csulaguy........awe yes, first thing neubie owner wants to due is twiddle them handy-dandy carb tweak'ums. Keep yer itchy-twitchy fingers off'n them. They ain't chur problem as described. Me? I'd un-snapple the capple and POLISH the invisible corrosion from between the points (0.015). I'd stick the corner of $1-bill between the points and PULL. Simple, eh? Surprizingly enuf, points don't care 6-volts or 12-volts ...but... yer squarecan coil does care. ALWAYS use the "infamous" ballast resistor.

As fer yer steaming radiator. Ittza 4psi radiator cap. Most radiator caps are 7psi and modern caps are 14psi. Donna worry, yer radiator kenn handle it. But iff'n yer steamin' out the side of yer radiator, yer gonna haffta have it worked on. A good radiator shop kenn solder it. .........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 

I love the help you all are, I swear I'd like to meet you all in person you're such nice, helpful folks. On another note, Dell, you crack me up, my friend lol.
 
(quoted from post at 12:16:07 10/08/15) csulaguy........awe yes, first thing neubie owner wants to due is twiddle them handy-dandy carb tweak'ums. Keep yer itchy-twitchy fingers off'n them. They ain't chur problem as described. Me? I'd un-snapple the capple and POLISH the invisible corrosion from between the points (0.015). I'd stick the corner of $1-bill between the points and PULL. Simple, eh? Surprizingly enuf, points don't care 6-volts or 12-volts ...but... yer squarecan coil does care. ALWAYS use the "infamous" ballast resistor.

As fer yer steaming radiator. Ittza 4psi radiator cap. Most radiator caps are 7psi and modern caps are 14psi. Donna worry, yer radiator kenn handle it. But iff'n yer steamin' out the side of yer radiator, yer gonna haffta have it worked on. A good radiator shop kenn solder it. .........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

I didn't really fiddle with the points or the carb. The air cleaner was disconnected, so I soaked most of it in mineral spirits to get rid of the crap inside, cleaned the "steel wool" and put new oil in the oil bath on the bottom. My contractor, who grew up on his family ranch with a 2N, fiddled with the carb when it wouldn't start, and got it working. I think he was adjusting the idle screw and something else. I should add, this is the first vehicle I've ever owned with a carb, so this is new to me, although I first learned to drive stick on a '63 Hyster forklift with a carb (and learned over time what happens when you flood the carb and it won't start).

As for the radiator cap, I'm presuming it's an original or OEM cap - it's a black art deco-type cap with the winged top design.

I tried dating the tractor with the serial, but I'm starting to think it's a frankenstein-tractor; the rear axles for instance show a 2N part number with a date of 1946, and using this site to date, my tractor seems to have features from different years:
http://www.oldfordtractors.com/idhistory.htm
 
(quoted from post at 16:40:17 10/08/15)
I love the help you all are, I swear I'd like to meet you all in person you're such nice, helpful folks. On another note, Dell, you crack me up, my friend lol.

I concur. I'll be honest, I have to read your posts twice because I don't always understand what you're writing at first LOL. But your wisdom is quite helpful. I saw many posts you wrote Dell while searching the web before joining the forum while troubleshooting things. This is a big change from working on my newer vehicles that require factory diagnostic programs on my laptop and a CAN-bus cable, but a fun change. More so, I'm looking forward to getting Sophie working so I can use her on a regular basis on my ranch.
 

I should have just replied to everything in one giant post...

I bought an overhaul kit from this site, along with new plug wires, and was fixing to replace gaskets and whatnot while changing the radiator. While I know I could have got it repaired, I elected to just replace the radiator, because I don't know if this has the original installed, and this will be a work tractor, not a show tractor. While I'm there, I'll be putting on a better 5L belt (it has a 4L, because that was all I could get while Napa ordered something most comparable to what was on it before, heavily cracked). Was also fixing to put on a thermostat (no clue if the one on it now is functional, or even in the top radiator hose assembly). Depending on the components, I personally would opt for replacement rather than repair, because who knows how long the repair will last. The other reason is that the it's about a 30-40 mile round trip to get the radiator repaired. I live in a small town; while our county seat is only about 30 miles round trip away, I want to avoid needless trips when various crap breaks down (like earlier in the week, I'd be making multiple trips to Napa or TSC for multiple things, and each trip is about 60-90 minutes total, wasting time for me).
 
(quoted from post at 00:49:16 10/09/15)
I should have just replied to everything in one giant post...

I bought an overhaul kit from this site, along with new plug wires, and was fixing to replace gaskets and whatnot while changing the radiator. While I know I could have got it repaired, I elected to just replace the radiator, because I don't know if this has the original installed, and this will be a work tractor, not a show tractor. While I'm there, I'll be putting on a better 5L belt (it has a 4L, because that was all I could get while Napa ordered something most comparable to what was on it before, heavily cracked). Was also fixing to put on a thermostat (no clue if the one on it now is functional, or even in the top radiator hose assembly). Depending on the components, I personally would opt for replacement rather than repair, because who knows how long the repair will last. The other reason is that the it's about a 30-40 mile round trip to get the radiator repaired. I live in a small town; while our county seat is only about 30 miles round trip away, I want to avoid needless trips when various crap breaks down (like earlier in the week, I'd be making multiple trips to Napa or TSC for multiple things, and each trip is about 60-90 minutes total, wasting time for me).
I would not use a dollar bill to clean the points, do you know how dirty they are? Use a clean business card or a brown paper bag.
 
Anytime your tractor quits or starts
running poorly always, always check your
spark First.
It requires No tools to pull a plug wire,
hold it to the block and Verify that you
have a bright bluish white spark that will
jump a good 1/4".
Short or yellowish spark will not do.
Always do this First. Only then go on to
fuel or air.
Welcome to the YT N board.
 
Thank you Ultradog. Yup, I checked the other day with a screwdriver about 1/4-1/2" from the block. White-blueish spark. Starts up no problem; it's just after the radiator started blowing out steam/boiling fluid that it ran like crap, and after letting it cool down for almost 2 hours. I'm hoping after replacing more things it'll be good next week, as I have about 23 acres left to mow, so she'll be working pretty hard.
 

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