Need overhaul advice.

Dusty8ball

New User
Hi guys,
with the winter approaching I want to take the time and do some work on my ‘48 8N. It runs ok, nothing that is jumping out saying fix me. It has severed me well for the past few years of plowing the drive way and cutting the fields, with just changing the oil. I don’t want to do a full overhaul because I don’t want to put that kind of money in to it just yet. Next year, it will do the usual duties and would like to use it for some plowing (2 furrows) and cultivating.

Any tips on what I should change out or service?

Thanks guys.
 
There's the old adage "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
I think I would go with that.

If you want to run some tests on it to see if it really needs work,
I would suggest an oil pressure test and a compression test.

You may also want to test the antifreeze and make sure that
it isn't old and rusty and that it tests good. Or, if you can't
remember when you last changed it, drain, flush and refill.
A flush may be a good idea anyway.

Same with the other fluids.

If it runs and works well with decent oil pressure and doesn't
overheat, I wouldn't have any fear of using it to pull a plow.
Use draft mode and the lowest top link hole.
 
Not possible to give you much
meaningful advise without more info.
As Royse suggests, what does the
compression readings say? What does
the oil pressure read? Does it smoke
bad, clunk or rattle?
Answer those questions and we may be
able to help better
 
Dusty........you do know how to take a compression reading, don't you? Take ALL yer sparkies out and then insert yer compression gauge in sparkie hole. Some compression gauges are a little hard to seal with their rubber cone. Me? I gotta screw-in compression gauge on a rubber hoze that fits under the gas tank. Ittza 5-rumpa-rumpas (or until the compression stops increasing) and write the NUMBER down. Then squirt about 1-oz of oil down the sparkie hole and take yer compression reading again. Ford sez 90 psi (dry) min, the squirt of oil shud increase the compression by about 20 psi. This evaluates the condition of the rings fer wear. Iff'n not much of increase, rings are worn and yer engine maybe candidate fer rebuilding. BTW, brand NEW rebuilt engine will compression test about 125psi. .......HTH, Dell
 
Old tractors hit a "sweet spot" when they are half worn out when they will just run on and on and on, burning a bit of oil, smoking a bit, but generally running pretty
nicely, well enough to do anything you need them to do. Things do break or need attention in this phase of the tractors life, though, and the novice or uninformed owner
will often decide, since they don't really know how to find and fix what is actually broke, that the thing to do is a total overhaul, since that will fix ANYTHING that is wrong.

Usually this is a mistake - most of the parts in the tractor have many miles or hours of life left in them. Of you have reasonable compression and oil pressure, and the lift
goes up and down, why not just enjoy it?
 
If you don't know about previous service history, and it doesn't burn much oil, I'd change all the fluids and call it a day. If I was feeling really good and had some time, I might even drop the pump and clean out the sludge when I drained the lube out of the back.
 
i agree with the others.

past simple maintenance service, you have 2 options.

fix it till it's broke,

or

if it's not broke.. don't fix it.

I vote latter.
 
Thanks for the Advice men, I do have good compression and no smoke or clucks. I will drop the sump and clean in out and look for any sign there. Just a fresh coat of paint should do then.
 
If you ran it for the past few years, as you say, than you already know how much oil it goes through between changes. If it's doing OK, leave it alone and run it and of course change the engine oil and filter at regular intervals. As said, make sure anti-freeze is good enough for coldest possible temperatures in your area. Another good maintenance item to do is wash out the air cleaner thoroughly. This is often neglected over the years. Of course trans / hydraulic fluid is another often neglected item. Change it if in doubt. Happy tractoring.
 
your tractor you know it best.
a good tractor........is a good tractor.
clean it up and give it good clean oil, fuel, air.......everywhere,
and it will stay good.
sounds like you listen to your tractor....a good thing.
most problems start with the tractor whispering for some help,
then is the time to fix, before that whisper turns into a shout.
ain't whispering? leave it be.

example...I bought 3 or 4 this year, cheap junk like always.
been a lucky year...couple of them, fixed this and that, and got clean fluids in everywhere....then...good tractor.
"there is nothing wrong here"
rebuild them just because they looked like junk when I got em....lol..not a chance...they are [i:922e9d8345]good[/i:922e9d8345] tractors.
 
Leaving well enough alone is the best road, in terms of engine repairs, but if you are going to take the sheet metal off to paint it, a couple of things to replace at that point could include:
-wiring harness
-spindle bushings
-spindle bearings
-king pin

These are relatively easy maintenance areas, but often overlooked by previous owners.

Colin, MN
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top