Cutter Blade sharpening tips?

Tall T

Well-known Member
I finally installed my new output shaft seal in my once busted up seal housing and am about to sharpen the blades.

Any tips would be appreciated as to bevels and edge thickness etc.

Thanks,
T
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28655.jpg
 
bolt end on that one looks bad.. I think i'd replace it.

As for sharpening a hog blade in general, I like to put no finer than a 1/16" flat if really cutting brush.

If used to 'rough cut' grass pastures, you can go ahead and sharpen them down more like a lawnmower.. however.. if you cut brush with it, it will fold the edge and make the blade nick easier.
 

I leave mine about 1/16 flat on the front as well. Be sure to do only enough on the bottom to restore "flatness" The sharpening needs to be done on the top in order to keep the blade's lift. try to keep the original angle.
 
For the cost, I'd replace both and start anew. Like was said, for grass, sharp edge, thicker/stalky vegetation, like the new ones will have, a small flat edge is what is needed. My blades are starting to look like the last one in the series of photos. 8 seasons of cutting with them/sharpening as needed and they don't seem to be balanced after observing the mower running. I have new ones on the shelf, this seasons cutting is done, new ones will go on and I will be checking the gearbox seals for leaks.
 
Showcrop,

You wrote:

"Be sure to do only enough on the bottom to restore "flatness" The sharpening needs to be done on the top in order to keep the blade's lift. try to keep the original angle."

This was one of the things I was wondering about.
by the "bottom" do you mean the grass side when the blades are mounted?

Thanks,
Terry
 
Hi Billy,

I'll try to find dead center of the assembly and balance the weight per side by taking away a little metal.

I will look into new blades, but for now with these I can at least determine if all is well with my gearbox and seal replacement.

Are those giant-headed blade pivot bolts available?

Thanks,
Terry
 
SoundN,

Good to know about excessive sharpness causing the edge to fold back under certain conditions!

Thanks,
T
 
(quoted from post at 10:40:47 10/06/15) Showcrop,

You wrote:

"Be sure to do only enough on the bottom to restore "flatness" The sharpening needs to be done on the top in order to keep the blade's lift. try to keep the original angle."

This was one of the things I was wondering about.
by the "bottom" do you mean the grass side when the blades are mounted?

Thanks,
Terry

Yes, the down side.
 
Showcrop,

Sorry for the dumb question.

After I cut back to a contiguous edge, I started the tedious grinding and was thinking that Dean's suggestion to buy new ones was a good one considering all the work but then I used my cutting torch to thin up my new 3/8" thick edges first then hit the grindstone. That stone on the grinder was part of the $20. grinder deal I got this spring. I tapped and put handles on the grinder too.

Here's the progress so far:
28713.jpg
28714.jpg
 
Should be, I know they vary with different manufacturers, but you should be able to source blade bolts for it.
 
Hi Billy,

For bolts I'll start with [b:d120f3bf7f]Island Tractor[/b:d120f3bf7f] where I bought the thing and who rounded up the seal for me. Being as winter is coming on fast (steady rain & a snowfall or two) there's no urgency. Mainly I wanted to at least get the seal cap back on the gearbox and flip it upside right.

I'll get the tail wheel fork to my blacksmith friend to straighten the bent post which I'll lengthen it as well.

Thanks again!

Terry
 
(quoted from post at 12:15:24 10/07/15) Showcrop,

Sorry for the dumb question.

After I cut back to a contiguous edge, I started the tedious grinding and was thinking that Dean's suggestion to buy new ones was a good one considering all the work but then I used my cutting torch to thin up my new 3/8" thick edges first then hit the grindstone. That stone on the grinder was part of the $20. grinder deal I got this spring. I tapped and put handles on the grinder too.

Here's the progress so far:
28713.jpg
28714.jpg

I hope you are only cutting grass, I would never put that much of an angle on a brush hog blade. I think you will find that it will not last all that long. I don't know about the using a torch on it. I would be worried about losing the temper.
Does look nice tho! :D
 

It looks thinner than it actually is and the edge is still 1/8" thick.
I haven't actually reached the original bevel on the topside, but maybe I should just clean up the cutting edge to 1/16 and leave well enough alone. :)

Intentions were only for grass and light bushes like salmon berry and blackberry.

You're right; I've probably blown the temper and there are a couple of spots and a crack that I have to beef up by grooving out and welding. Maybe I should take the blades over to my blacksmith friend and get him to restore the temper.

Thanks,
Terry
 

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