Gear Lube Weeping

I removed the swinging drawbar support bracket that surrounds the PTO so I could repair and paint it.

Noticed that 80W90 weeps out of the top right of 4 bolt holes
so at least one of them runs right into the diff housing.
I temporarily just put the bolts back but am ready to reinstall the support bracket.

So . . . any suggestions as to sealing the upper bolts after lowering the lube level and cleaning out the hole?

Thanks,
Terry

(quoted from post at 13:24:04 09/28/15) I removed the swinging drawbar support bracket that surrounds the PTO so I could repair and paint it.

Noticed that 80W90 weeps out of the top right of 4 bolt holes
so at least one of them runs right into the diff housing.
I temporarily just put the bolts back but am ready to reinstall the support bracket.

So . . . any suggestions as to sealing the upper bolts after lowering the lube level and cleaning out the hole?

Thanks,
Terry

Click to expand...

Petroleum resistant thread sealant - probably a dozen to choose from at any auto/tractor supply.

TOH

Interesting. My 8N has the threaded holes, but no swinging drawbar and does not leak. 'Course, when I drained the fluid this past weekend I had to poke a screwdriver through the sediment before the drain holes were open. I wonder what will happen when I put her back together. ;^)

Thanks TOH,

I'm heading into town so I'll pick some up.

___________________

Jim,

Funny but it was only the top right that weeped and even though the tractor was sloping to the left, the top left didn't weep. I put the bolts back in temporarily with fiber washers, so when I go to put the bracket back on, I'll poke through to see if any of my holes, like top left are just plugged up.

I spruced up the front wheels and hubs and bumper. I first bought some Valspar New Holland Red but then decided to go with Valspar International Red. It looks a little overly Pink/Magenta which I can live with . . . but maybe the paint mixer got the proportions slightly off. He WAS grumbling about having to do it when he was alone minding the store on saturday and his first attempt he used the wrong binder.

Maybe that explains the Red Power mania. The women were taken by the pretty red and talked their hubbies into going International.

(quoted from post at 16:27:37 09/28/15) Interesting. My 8N has the threaded holes, but no swinging drawbar and does not leak. 'Course, when I drained the fluid this past weekend I had to poke a screwdriver through the sediment before the drain holes were open. I wonder what will happen when I put her back together. ;^)

Click to expand...

He is not talking about the holes on the underside. He is talking about the rear bolts around the PTO.

TOH

"It looks a little overly Pink/Magenta"

Yeah, it does look a little too pink, even for Farmall red.
Still, it will help prevent rust and make it easier to clean
and prep for paint "next time"!

This was pre-mixed Farmall red.

Yep he got the paint wrong... The bolt holes are blind normal when they get broke out someone put to long of a bolt in the hole :wink:
Seal it up you will be OK to go...

Royse,

Easier to scuff up and repaint next time for sure. Thanks.
I also heated and straightened parts of it too so that's done.

So here's the scoop:
I went into town and the more knowledgeable paint guy was there so I showed him a sample of how it turned out on the pinkish side. I told him I had in mind the deep red that one sees on the 40's and 50's farmalls on the YouTube auctions, so he went to the books and quickly discovered an "older formula version" of Farmall Red. He mixed me up a sample and I liked it so I bought a half pint and tossed the sample in as well.

I had gone to the Valspar Implement page and all I saw there was "International Red", and it definitely looked more like the later square bodied Farmalls when they added white to the color scheme.

[b:df6141d183]He said the older version is listed as "Harvester Red" and the newer Magenta one "International Red."[/b:df6141d183]

So I'll repaint my two now Magenta sway bars, the swinging drawbar and check-chain mt. bracket, my two lower link arms and the front hubs and maybe leave the bumper the way it is.

This new 1/2 pint of Harvester Red has a slightly orangy look to it so I'm hoping it will look more like it belongs on the Ford.

Thanks for stopping by,
Terry

My computer was dragging when I first saw your post and your Farmall didn't show up till now. Definite orange touch.

Hi Hobo,

Is THAT what happened!
One of the bolts was an oddball as well with a deeper head.
Maybe that's the too long one; I'll see tomorrow.

My first thought was oh $*#t, I have a diff housing crack.

I think he got the paint right but I think I made it pinker adding a little extra reducer for the second coat. See the explanation in the Royse post.

Cheers,
Terry

I shouldn't say I know for certain that he got the proportions correct.

what made me so sure he got it right is in these red stick photos
before any reducer or Activater. I dipped the sticks in the fresh cans to compare.
On the left: "International red
On the right: "New Holland Red"

So the look of the left was what I thought I was going to get!!

[b:b65dac9e0f]But you may be right[/b:b65dac9e0f], there was maybe not enough red to accept the thinning of the reducer and Activator, without going PINK!

Also on my second coat I did add an additional splash of reducer . . . .
If you thin red you get pink!

He gave me a 1/2 pint of International Base Coat for free that one of his employees had mixed me up on Saturday. I was about to leave the store, hesitatingly, when I noticed "Base Coat" and gave it back to him. He looked up the price and said that the half pint was $40. I said that couldn't be right, and he said to leave it till later, which was today. It was because it was Base Coat which I didn't want, that it showed up as being so pricey. I didn't know Base Coat binders were so expensive compared to Color coat

All that 1/2 pint he gave me needs is a followup clear coat as you probably all know.

Anyway, I'm still kinda after the deeper
cherry red of the big old Wheatland IHC and of many old restored 40's and 50's Farmalls I've seen in YouTube auctions.
Maybe I have to cut back to a creamier density than Homo milk when I reduce it for spray and/or apply more coats.

TT

I believe the IH#50 would be period correct for 40's 50's, but when IH introduced 2150 Rouge Red, they obsoleted #50.... For what it's worth, the IH #2150 from your local Case-IH dealer is excellent quality paint... It will result in a very high gloss even without hardener, and if hardener is used, the results will be dazzling. The #2150 is also very fade resistant.... Credit rustyfarmall for the info.....

The last I brought was in the neighborhood of $40 a Gal but that was 5 years ago, I pick up the harder from NAPA. Every thing around here get painted 2150 a Gal. of paint last quite awhile..

technically.. you do have a rear housing crack.. just not a life threatoning one.

as said, celan the hole out with a shot of carb spray and then a rag, clean the right size bolt, then lube it up with some sealer and put it in.

do check the threads in the holes. i have seen some people damage the threads a bit and drill thru and rethread deeper using that last little bit of casting they drilled thru to do the holding...

(reply to post at 04:46:45 09/29/15)

Click to expand...

Hobo,

Thanks for the keeper info.
I'm kind of limited in my choice of brands because here on this small island we have only one auto parts store and just last year they introduced the Valspar paint mixing department.

I forgot to upload the samples I was talking about last night so here they are. I made a stick dip sample of the older version called "international Red" last night and it looks like what I'm after. The newer Valspar formula is called "International Harvester Red". I think I've got it straight.

The older version that I'll try is the sample on the right
and it is noticeably darker.

Is this Yesterday site working super slow for others right now
cause it is painfully slow here?

Thanks,
T

Hi Soundguy,

You wrote:
technically.. you do have a rear housing crack.. just not a life threatening one.

Right!

[color=darkblue:5a70cd16d3]as said, clean the hole out with a shot of carb spray and then a rag, clean the right size bolt, then lube it up with some sealer and put it in[/color:5a70cd16d3].

Picked up some Permatex yesterday.

[color=darkblue:5a70cd16d3]do check the threads in the holes. i have seen some people damage the threads a bit and drill thru and rethread deeper using that last little bit of casting they drilled thru to do the holding...[/color:5a70cd16d3]

Interesting historical tidbit! I'll check for how much actual thread I have and tighten accordingly.

Thanks,
T