2N Overheating when worked

I know this topic has been posted many many times, but I have not found a topic that has my symptoms. Here is what I have, and I am looking forward to hearing your ideas.

Here is what I have
Ford 2N with a homemade loader. 12 volt conversion with solid state ignition
New carburetor adjusted to factory specs (old carb showed the same issues and was very worn out), newer radiator and water pump, flushed the block (4 times), replaced the head gasket, running 30 weight oil in the summer. It has a vertical exhaust. Also it dose have a fair amount of blow by (puffing out the breather).

The issue
If I am using the tractor just as a loader, it is great. It stays cool. I can push dirt or use the back blade with out any issues. If I try and do serious work like pull a 2 bottom plow, disk, or run my brush hog. The tractor will get up to 200 degrees in about 30 minutes of operation.

I have tried adjusting the fuel mixture in both directions, it is happiest at the factory settings.

When operating I am between half and 3/4 throttle.

Since I have owned this tractor it has operated this way. I have ran out of ideas and I need a fresh set of eyes on this.

Please let me know your ides or other things to look at.

Westernbronco.
 
I forgot to mention in the first post.

180 degree T-stat new at the time of the radiator and water pump

50/50 antifreeze

after it gets hot i can bring it up to the house, and let it run at the same speed it was running in the field and it will cool back off again to 180. That takes about 15 to 20 minutes.
 
How do you know it's 200*?

Does it have a fan shroud?

What's the ambient temp when you're working it hard?

Is it spewing water out of the overflow tube?

New cap?
75 Tips
 

200 is not heat'N and a normal hard working temp...

Coolant absorbs the heat air takes it away... Air flow thru the rad is mighty important don't assume it...
 
Did you add a temp gauge? Did you put an adapter of some kind in the top hose? Could it be restricting the coolant flow?

I would try a 160 degree thermostat
 
If it has a lot of blow-by, that is the problem. Governor is opening the throttle to keep up with the load but the engine is weak & laboring (burning more gas) to keep up. Try running the engine faster so the fan cools better.
 
(quoted from post at 15:52:17 09/23/15) I forgot to mention in the first post.

180 degree T-stat new at the time of the radiator and water pump

50/50 antifreeze

after it gets hot i can bring it up to the house, and let it run at the same speed it was running in the field and it will cool back off again to 180. That takes about 15 to 20 minutes.

When is the last time you took an air nozzle and blew the crap out of both sides of the radiator? I would also use a high pressure water nozzle to get out any crusted stuff.

You'll be surprised to see how much crap will come out of that radiator that you can't see just by looking at it.
 
I have a temp gauge in the block, and I am getting water out the cap at shut down. you can hear it boiling.

It dose have a fan shroud I transferred it to the new radiator.

ambient temp is around 70 degrees. I don't like to work in the heat. But I have tried to work it at 50 degrees and I get the same reaction.
 
4 blade or 6 blade fan?

Mine's doing the same thing with a 6 blade, gurgles in the radiator when you shut it down, I haven't taken it's temp yet - I just watch a little steam coming out the rad cap on a hard pull with the scoop.
 
" I am getting water out the cap......."

How much coolant is in the radiator? See tip # 24.

Do you have a new cap on it or not?

" I am getting water out the cap at shut down. you can hear it boiling."

Bottom line......that's not a problem, especially if the radiator is overfilled.

Working hard w/ a coolant temp of 200* is not an issue. The cap & 50-50 coolant will raise the boiling point of the coolant to about 220*, IIRC.

When you turn the engine off, you've stopped the cooling process. That's why it's boiling.
75 Tips
 

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