Distributor Shaft Ford 9-N

I've searched the forums and otherwise, and can't find any answers about the distributor shaft for a 9-N.
The bottom end of the shaft presents a special area which mates with the engine camshaft. As per the photo, there's a threaded hole in the end, and I'm needing to know what the screw down at the bottom does. In particular, I'm wondering if this end of the shaft can somehow move out of place, and thus affect engine timing.
When following procedure for setting timing, the scale will only get with about 1/8-3/16 from where the manual specifies, and I'm having to maximize advance timing (distributor side plate) to get a start.
28079.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:32:00 09/22/15) I've searched the forums and otherwise, and can't find any answers about the distributor shaft for a 9-N.
The bottom end of the shaft presents a special area which mates with the engine crankshaft. As per the photo, there's a threaded hole in the end, and I'm needing to know what the screw down at the bottom does. In particular, I'm wondering if this end of the shaft can somehow move out of place, and thus affect engine timing.
When following procedure for setting timing, the scale will only get with about 1/8-3/16 from where the manual specifies, and I'm having to maximize advance timing (distributor side plate) to get a start.
28079.jpg
hat screw only holds a felt-like oil wick inside the hollow shaft so that a bit of oil can come out the side hole under the upper bushing. You can replenish thru that side hole with a syringe, since the factory staked that screw & are nearly impossible to remove. P.S. the offset drive tang engages with cam shaft, not crank shaft.
 

Thanks for the input---I tried to correct the error concerning the crankshaft.
It sounds like the lower portion we're talking about is fixed in place, and would not move/affect engine timing.
 
(quoted from post at 17:52:09 09/22/15)
Thanks for the input---I tried to correct the error concerning the crankshaft.
It sounds like the lower portion we're talking about is fixed in place, and would not move/affect engine timing.
orrect
 
I've always used a straightedge, like the manual suggests. I also put drill bits in the holes, so as to help achieve proper alignment of the straightedge.
In turning the distributor shaft, I'm going right by the book, and have always stopped when I feel the points/rubbing block begin to connect up with the cam lobe.
With regards to the distributor shaft, I'm now considering whether or not the slotted plate could move, and thus affect timing.
If it does, it would be because exact position of the slotted plate affects positioning of the attached cam/lobes. I took the advance all the way apart this afternoon, and didn't see that the slotted plate would affect position of the cam---but there again, I started off saying the tang connects to the crankshaft, soooo...guess I'll go take it apart again and do some more figuring!
 
28086.jpg


Question answered. The slotted plate can only fit the shaft in one way, owing to a flat. The cam lobes are attached to the advance weights, and the cam/advance weights must align with the slots. There's only one way it can all fit together, and it does not seem possible for any of the pieces to [i:dba13fdab7]mistakenly[/i:dba13fdab7] move out of place.
The screw at bottom does not have anything to do with orientation of the tang.
 
You're over thinking this.

Use Bluestreak or Echlin points.

Use a meter to see when the points open.

A jig, quality points and a meter will
solve the problem.
75 Tips
 
Thanks for the advice. I already have the blue streaks, and started in on a jig. It had not occurred to me that I could use the meter---done this so many times without it.
I've been hung up on the centrifugal advance because somehow a bunch of large particles got in there, and wedged up movement of the counterweights---this 'ol tractor was doing some mighty strange things! Once I got that fixed, backfire through a new carb. had ruined the float adjustment, with awful results.
She's pretty well starting up good, but I need a new set of Champion H10's---currently there's a set of old H12's running.

I'm way out in the country, so I'll have to wait about a week to get new plugs, and besides that, I'm addressing some issues with the governor.
I've been using this old 9-n for about thirty years, and I want to be able to let it sit for a month, "peck" the key, and get an instant start. In order to accomplish that, every little thing has to be exact.
 
The meter makes it a lot more accurate. As
does a jig. Don't be surprised if you need
to set it 4-6* advanced. None of mine are
timed at TDC.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 20:51:14 09/22/15) The meter makes it a lot more accurate. As
does a jig. Don't be surprised if you need
to set it 4-6* advanced. None of mine are
timed at TDC.
75 Tips
ou are dead on, Bruce and this is dead wrong:"every little thing has to be exact." These crude old engines will run fine with zero centrifugal advance, just as long as full advance is set "about" right & "about" is no exaggeration! People get so hung up on precision when measuring by hand spans!

:roll:
 
Thank you.
I fully intend to understand why there's need to change timing, as per the distributor side-plate, and exactly why the method of setting timing as per the manual has also changed (compared to what always worked before).
Better awareness means more confidence in the machine, and might help with repair if it goes down in the field. If the machine breaks down in the field, pulling it in with truck/chain can be quite challenging.

I think the best place to begin is to make the jig and use the meter, and go from there.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top