bmack95hd

Well-known Member
When moving my '51 between Arizona and Colorado I've often thought about what's the proper way about trailering. Is it best to binder it down in gear or in neutral? As Dell knows there are some rollercoaster roads across the Rez and throughout New Mexico. I've done it once in neutral but that seemed unsafe. In gear I was wondering about hurting gears. What do you think?
 
I've hauled tractors a Lot.
I drive them on with the nose forward, get them located properly over the trailer axles so they are neither tongue or tail heavy then use 2 chains in the rear and 2 ratchet straps in the front and use those to cinch it town tight. Then I put it in gear. I rarely set the brakes but you can. I usually pop it out of gear and take a couple more clicks on the rachets in the first 25 and 100 miles. Then pop it back into gear.
 
BMACK518N,Chain or strap it down tight and then put it in 1st gear,you can lock the brakes if you want to for some feel good(not needed).Stop after 25 miles or so and check to see if the chains are still tight,and roll on.
 
(quoted from post at 15:11:22 09/21/15) I've hauled tractors a Lot.
I drive them on with the nose forward, get them located properly over the trailer axles so they are neither tongue or tail heavy then use 2 chains in the rear and 2 ratchet straps in the front and use those to cinch it town tight. Then I put it in gear. I rarely set the brakes but you can. I usually pop it out of gear and take a couple more clicks on the rachets in the first 25 and 100 miles. Then pop it back into gear.

Ultradog MN, I have a question. I've never trailered the tractor but know I will be soon enough so I've thought this over in my head and I've come up with using chains up front and ratchet straps in the rear. I figure the chains being the strongest would be better up front in case of a strap failure.

Why do you chose to do the opposite? Please understand I'm totally green and look to you for advice so this is not me being smart. Honestly curious. Thanks.
 

Mine are almost always in gear but I don't think that it makes a difference. A few years ago someone here insisted that they must be in neutral or your chains/straps could loosen and the tractor would jump start itself. He claimed that it had happened to himself at least twice. He didn't tell how the key got turned on from what I recall.
 
My chains are much stronger than those
straps. So I put them in the rear as that's
where the greatest potential loading could
come from.
Think emergency stop or running into
something. Don't want the the tractor
climbing into the back of the puckup.
 
As a former truck drive that has hauled many machines we ALWAYS have them out of gear due to being able to damage parts of them. 4 chains and 4 boomers as per D.O.T. regs.
 
I haul mine the same as Ultradog does, and never heard of anyone having a problem doing it in gear. Im too old to change now.
 
I drive mine on forward lock brakes and leave in gear . I use chains on all 4 corners with binders ( snap on front and ratchet on back). I snap fronts tight and put ratchets on rear and just snug chains down and release brakes and take tractor out of gear and then ratchet it down tight and reset brakes. When I unload I do ths same thing in reverse.
 
(quoted from post at 16:18:37 09/21/15) As a former truck drive that has hauled many machines we ALWAYS have them out of gear due to being able to damage parts of them. 4 chains and 4 boomers as per D.O.T. regs.

But young fella, Let's give BMack518N correct information, that if his N weighs over 10,000 lbs. he needs four chains but if it is like most Ns it needs only two.
 
If you carry a Class A CDL as per D.O.T. regs and crossing state line you HAVE to have 4 chains and 4 boomers it does not matter how heavy it is. I have 1.9 Million mile on my record and counting
 
Since I do not drive cross country any more they waive the D.O.T. physical that way I can still keep my CDL just can not drive for a living any more but if something where to happen and I was there I can still help out. As for my disability I have a bad back bad shoulder and bed knee. But I have learned to work around my problems and what once took me an hour now can take a day. Judge not unless you can walk in another mans shoes
 
I have seen several 14.000 lb. balls break. I pull my 14,000 lb. trailer using a 25,000 lb. shank with a 20,000 lb. ball.
 
I just renewed my license about 10 days ago.
Had to sign the waiver form so no physical needed.
Have had a CDL since the early 80s. I haven't used it since then but I keep it up just because.
I suspect I will never use it again but it would take about 1 hour and a $100 doctor visit to be legal.
I've also kept my motorcycle endorsement up since the mid 70s.
Haven't been on one of those either in nearly 40 years.
 
I still own 4 10 wheel trucks 1 8 wheel truck and 2 6 wheel trucks. Plus have 6 motorcycles on the place. I have had what was now a CDL since I was 16 years old. I am suppose wear a knee brace and walk with a cane and not walk more then 50 yards with to stopping or lift more the 35lbs but what can you do in life and really do that all the time. I just take it easy and do not push my self to far and when I do push my self I know when to stop or be laid up for a day or 3
 
I drove 38 years for a commercial carrier and have seen the one chain forward and one back that one came loose and tractor ended up in ditch and one that when tractor came off trailer it took truck and trailer with it. My tractors weigh under 10,000 lbs. .and I won't leave the yard without 4 chains and 4 binders on a tractor.
 
BMack..........yeah, thems some washboard roads thru the rez. When I finally bitt the bullet, I bought a 14-footer implement trailer. I hadda extra 2x4 tube bumper welded up to some extra 2x4 sockets bolted to the metal frame 1/2-way between the already installed 2x4 sockets. When I load my eazy starting 6-volt 52-8N, I just drive up till the front wheels touch the 18"-high bumper and leaver in gear. This puts my rear wheels centered between the dual axles. I then drilled and installed a set of spring loaded tie-down rings between the dual wheels. I can then loop a 3" ratchet web belt over the tranny and clip into the rings and ratchet it tite to the deck. I have 2-folding jack stands at the rear corners to keep the trailer from popping UP as I drive on or off. I also have 2-plastic wheel chocks fer my tractor wheels I got from RV store. First thing ya do is try the electric brakes after yer hitched to yer pickup. Electric brakes are NECESSITY but they often gitt rusty and don't grab rite away, so you wanna test'em BEFORE hittin' the highway. Ya know ya gottchur trailer loaded rite when the pickup bumper squats about 2-3 inches. Crossed safety chains under the 2-5/16 ball hitch. Check yer trailer lites once plugged in. My Dodge 3/4-T Cummins Diesel with auto tranny tows quite nicely......Dell
 
most smaller tractors, I use the 4 ratchet straps and axle loops I have from my car racing days.
Bigger tractors or a long distance haul, I might add a chain
front and rear to the straps. Peace of mind and cops like overkill.
If I have to mix and match, I put the chains in the rear for the reasons posted.
I put them in gear....never really thought about it...park a manual...put it in gear.....and I don't want it to roll away when I release the binders LOL.

I can't really understand how it could hurt gears.
gears are tough and the engine isn't running. It'll just turn the engine a little before a gear could break.
We abuse gears far more freeing a stuck engine....or even when we wedge em, to tighten/remove a Farmall belly pump drive flange for example.
 
I put mine in gear as well.

I put a strap on each corner and one over the middle.

If there is an implement like a mower or a loader, each implement gets a strap as well.

I always have extra cribbing in case I need to crib under ramps or ( rarely ) trailer ends. I will put that timber as wheel choks and tie in with loose ends of straps.
 
I hope you are using a 3" commercial grade strap ( rated as grade 70 5,400 lbs.)because most 3" non commercial straps are only rated at 3,300lbs. Under federal regulation and most state regulations you should have at least two straps ( one front and one rear).
 
I always drive tractors onto my 20+4 gooseneck and center the rear tires over the trailer axles (if its just the tractor)...adjust accordingly based on the implement. I always park it on the trailer in gear with the parking brake set (if applicable) when I get off. I cross chain both the front and rear using 5/16" chain on the front of the trailer and 3/8" on the back of the trailer regardless of tractor direction, then boom down with a 3 ft cheater. Throw a strap across any attachments; tighten until it sings when you tap it and hit the road.

Realistically though, if you have it secured correctly, nothing will be damaged in transport because it won't be moving. Things will start getting damaged when you don't have your chains or straps tight enough and the tractor starts moving around.
 
Been out of town, unable to look at my post. Thanks for the mix of replies. I use Gr.70 transport chain and chain binders. I have 4-20ft. chains and 4 chain binders and some 4" rated ratchet straps. I'm going to use what I got and haul her home in gear checking chain tension as I go. Thanks again.
 
I park everything with a manual transmission in neutral,car truck or tractor. I have seen at least four cars and trucks that were off when we left the shop and were running the next morning. The cause has been mice, or just worn out wiring.It only takes one shorted wire to make one start. On tying one down I have seen a lot of backhoes,skid loaders and tractors this summer with one long chain one each end. The problem I have is watching the chains bouncing as they go down the road,it is not good to have a chain jerking around like that. 4 crossed chains or DOT rated straps is really the only safe way to haul anything (well maybe your lawn mower).
 

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