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Headbolts/reusing.

D

dahermit

Member
1948, front mount 8N. Having had problems in keeping the generator in position to keep the fan belt tight, I am thinking about making one of those
tensioning devices that were offered as an upgrade years ago. However, it would appear that one would have to remove the first two front head bolts to
mount it. Therefore, my question is: Will there be a problem if I pull those two head bolts, put the bracket on top of the head and replace those two head
bolts, or am I likely to run into to problems by doing so? And what problems? Blown head gasket or loss of seal? Broken head bolts?
 
" Having had problems in keeping the generator in position to keep the fan belt tight,"

Why not just go for the simple fix? Seems like it would be a lot easier to repair/replace the generator bracket.

And if one of those headbolts breaks when you are removing it or re-torquing it, you'll be ahead of the game.
75 Tips
 
Insure that you have lock washers on the bolt that attaches the generator to the block as well as on the bracket. Loosen both nuts, get tension on the generator until you get 1/2" play at the midpoint on the belt. Then tighten the adjusting nut on the bracket before you tighten the nut on the bolt on the block.
75 Tips
 
"Insure that you have lock washers on the bolt that attaches the generator to the block as well as on the bracket." Looking at the parts book, trying to figure out what you are saying, but do not understand. The generator bracket has two parts, one is part of the generator, is part of the end cap. A long bolt (20877-S) goes through the the bracket which serves as an "axle". On the end is a lock washer (34808-S) and a nut (33792-S). Are you referring to that small piece (10145) as the "bracket"?
 

I would remove them no question about it... Its old chit anything can bite you it would be rare for the removal of a head bolt are two to do your upgrade to be a issue...
 
" A long bolt (20877-S) goes through the the bracket which serves as an "axle". On the end is a lock washer (34808-S) and a nut (33792-S). "

Yes.

Make sure you have p/n 34808-S, the lock washer.

Look at p/n 10145, which I'm calling a bracket.....it's properly called an arm.

It also has a bolt, 350204, nut 33792 & a washer, 34808.

If you have all of that correctly in place & tight, I don't see how it can slip.
75 Tips
 
"still slips when I hit a bump."

Is the front axle whacking the generator?

Do you have pivot pin/bushing or radius rod issues?

Can you use a shorter belt so the alternator tucks in closer to the engine, out of harm's way?
 
(quoted from post at 22:14:00 08/22/15) "still slips when I hit a bump."

Is the front axle whacking the generator?

Do you have pivot pin/bushing or radius rod issues?

Can you use a shorter belt so the alternator tucks in closer to the engine, out of harm's way?
Click to expand...
I think you may have nailed it Bob.
If the axle isn't hitting it, removing the headbolts shouldn't be a
big deal but I would put them back in with some thread sealer
and let it dry before I fired it up.
 
I was concerned that when I re-torqued them, they could snap-off. Such was suggested on this forum months ago. As I remember, the post was, "Always put new head bolts in because new head bolts rarely snap when first torqued, whereas used ones frequently break when re-torqued.", or something to that effect.
 
Well, I agree.

I never re-use a head bolt that I didn't install new myself. Which is the case with 3 of the 4 8N's I own because I've rebuilt the engines. Seems like a pack of 25 bolts was $12. And they needed washers because the OEM bolts are 1-3/8" & new ones are 1-1/2".
 
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