Weld A Flywheel

Hobo,NC

Well-known Member
Location
Sanford, NC
This is my first on the tractor weld'em up... It had been welded before and came loose.. I don't know how it has held up all these the years were it came loose it never penetrated the flywheel :shock: For the record its a EZ fix...

My tip make sure you blow out the gasses from the cleaner you use to remove the oil it sure made a long WHOOSH and my hand still tinkles...

Next on the list the front center axle is worn slap arse out it will need a replacement are a permanent fix to the original... The center axle pin bushing was JB/lock welded in some 6 to 8 years ago...

Its a 12V conversion with a hobo gutted front mount coil...

It is a little hard to start the spark will not jump 20KV on my spark checker it seams to hit off when I let off the starter button I think its a coil issue I have ran into this on a few Napa 14SB's...

I an gonna have to remove the hood "For sure it will get a voltmeter" this time and a damm real ignition switch and not a garbage off shore knock off "N switch"...

A OEM style amp meter offers NO useful info when you have a no crank'em up issue :twisted:



mvphoto26341.jpg
 

ive read where some people will tack weld a ring gear in place after putting it on .that didnt seem like a good idea to me , but maybe sometimes you do what it takes .
 
(quoted from post at 23:20:07 08/20/15)
ive read where some people will tack weld a ring gear in place after putting it on .that didnt seem like a good idea to me , but maybe sometimes you do what it takes .
one it several times...works for me. Sure beats splitting!
P.S. It isn't an "idea", it is an accomplishment!
 
Good job Hobo. I have done a couple if them
through the starter hole.
EZ.
The flywheel is cast - that's why it didn't
hold. I used a nickel rod made for CI.
Worked good.
 
I am asking myself why I let him talk me into this type of hacked up repair... I am going to remove the hood and front axle anyways...

It has a knock on start up he said it was not there before :shock:
It sounds just like a DEEP main bearing knock and goes away with a little throttle and does not come back.... Oil pressure is good from the get go BUT the oil line to the oil filter has a massive leak... I don't think the oil leak is the issue...

He had the starter rebuilt then found out the ring gear had came loose... He said "Do you recon the knock could be the starter drive that broke off the end of the starter"...

I don't know but it sure as ell would have helped if I had known about it :twisted:

I spent a few hours cleaning up and painting a front rim the tire was flat and has cut 2 new tubes... I will know more when i get it off the trailer...
 
About four years ago the ring gear was replaced on my 8N. When I removed the old ring
gear, I noticed there was a groove about 0.015 inches deep all the way around the fly
wheel and the same width as the ring gear. At the time, I thought that was strange
because that would use up some of the shrinkage interference when I put the new ring gear
on. Since the old ring gear was not welded, I decided to not weld the new one and rely on
the shrink interference. It worked great for four years.
About a month ago, the ring gear started to slip and would not turn the engine over. The
flywheel looked like cast steel, so I miged four one inch spots on it with mild steel
wire. So far it is holding well.
Will let the team know if anything should change.
For the life of me, I do not understand why the groove was machined in the fly wheel for
the ring gear to set in when it is shrinked on.
Thanks
 
I have done this plenty of times. To remove ring gears I have laid a bead on the gear section only, to let the heat expand it. With aluminum flywheels i drill and tap a few setscrews into the joint.
 
I'll second the crappy ignition switch. I bought one and it lasted 3 weeks or so. I wouldn't put another one like it on. I didn't even bother with a return. No regrets.
 

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