2n No spark will electronic ignition help update

Went down today. Checked power to the coil with test light. Power. Checked with analog multimeter. I got about 3.5
volts. 6.5 at battery. Checked spark. none. Pulled distributer off. Checked continuity at points. None. Cleaned points
with fine emory. Good continuity. put back together and installed. Check spark, looked weak to me with test light and
would not start. Jumped starter with 12 volt. Coughed here and there then ran rough. After about 3 or 4 minutes engine
ran normal. With trepidation shut engine down. Restarted immediately. Bush hogged bout 2 hours without problem and put
it away. Next: Clean up the contacts on all the battery cables. I will change to EI as I want to eliminate the points
problem. We identified the water leakage problem and we are going to fix that. saw 4 pretty big deer while doing all
this. Thanks to everyone for their help. I do appreciate it ant this site.
 
Glad to hear you got it running. Corroded points and a weak battery will get you every time.

Is the tractor 6 volt? If it is, your life will be easier if you convert it to 12 volt before you install the EI. Most EI units won't fire with less than 5 volts. And a 6v EI will not like a 12 volt jump either. Check all that out with the EI vendor.
75 Tips
 
You may have flooded the plugs while troubleshooting.

I agree with converting to 12V w/points first, then go EI
if you want. I have a 12V 2N with points that I only use for
snow plowing here in Michigan. I've had a problem with the
points one time in the past 5 years. A new gasket set for the
distributor seems to have cured that issue. They got wet.
I dried them out and still haven't needed to replace them.

Buy quality points. Echlin or Standard Ignition BlueStreak
premium vented. They're still under $16 here.
Anything with a plastic rubbing block will be trouble.
 
Flooding is what I think too. Spun it with 12v and it coughed. Tried it a couple more times before it caught and ran
rough, then smoothed out. Want to make it so when we head to dear camp its gonna start.
 
It is still 6 volt. EI will eliminate corroded point problems but voltage is more critical? It looks like its a matter of pick your poison.
 
always look at the big picture.
in your post, it took 12v to get er going....
deer camp?..tractor that will sit idle a lot....
deer season.....it's usually cold out...
when you go there then, do you want to chase deer...or work on the tractor?
(if your camp is like mine....all my best tools and my heated shop are at home...I don't want to work on nothin there)
go 12v, your style of ignition is up to you, they all work.
 
Oh during deer season I don't care if the tractor runs or not. I'm killing cute furry animals. We do the bush hogging
and and stuff prior to the hunting trips. Take a 4 wheeler down for deer dragging.
 
" It looks like its a matter of pick your poison. "

Well, sorta......

But your real problem isn't points vs EI; it's the fact that the battery sets for so long w/o a charge. And it does not matter if it's 12v or 6v; the battery starts sulfating after 30 days.

So, I'd remove the battery, take it home & put it on a float charger.

A good strong battery will over come some minor points corrosion.

One thing you can try is leaving the points open when you shut it down. Turn the key off, then back on & quickly check voltage at the top of the coil. If it's battery voltage, you're good to go; the points are open. If it's not battery voltage, bump the starter until they do open.

But......this is not a proven fact, just my personal experience of leaving my spare distributor on the shelf w/ the points open for 12+ months w/o any points corrosion. Might be a coincidence......might be that it works! Regardless, it's cheaper than EI. And if that doesn't work, then dress the points.
75 Tips
 

For the record EI does not fire it switches :shock: I dunno were you are getting you unconfirmed info but a EI will and does switch very well below a 5V threshold...
 
" unconfirmed info "

No, it's not unconfirmed.

It came from Paul Rogers at Pertronix on Sept 2, 2009.

He said, "we really recommend that the user convert to 12v since the 12v units will work down to 8 volts, but the 6v units need a minimum of 5.2 v".
 

Paul Rogers needs to recheck his chit that info is wrong...

I have done my own test it switched in the low 4V's

Loaded the bat with 400 amps on a carbon pile then hit the starter it fired up... The battery voltage at that time was in the low 4's... I had a DSO scope hooked to the EI I don't suspect it lied...

Lets go back to a 12V EI

If your bat volts fell to 8V EI switching would be the least of your problems...

You can believe are make up what you want to believe I stand by my test..
 
(quoted from post at 21:50:32 08/22/15)
Paul Rogers needs to recheck his chit that info is wrong...

I have done my own test it switched in the low 4V's

Loaded the bat with 400 amps on a carbon pile then hit the starter it fired up... The battery voltage at that time was in the low 4's... I had a DSO scope hooked to the EI I don't suspect it lied...

Lets go back to a 12V EI

If your bat volts fell to 8V EI switching would be the least of your problems...

You can believe are make up what you want to believe I stand by my test..
"guess" that you got a good'un, Hobo, because Pertronix own literature does in fact say 5.2 v minimum cranking voltage. What can I say? Other than, when I saw that, I said to myself, "then how the H do any of them work'?
 
(quoted from post at 08:56:06 08/24/15)
(quoted from post at 21:50:32 08/22/15)
Paul Rogers needs to recheck his chit that info is wrong...

I have done my own test it switched in the low 4V's

Loaded the bat with 400 amps on a carbon pile then hit the starter it fired up... The battery voltage at that time was in the low 4's... I had a DSO scope hooked to the EI I don't suspect it lied...

Lets go back to a 12V EI

If your bat volts fell to 8V EI switching would be the least of your problems...

You can believe are make up what you want to believe I stand by my test..
"guess" that you got a good'un, Hobo, because Pertronix own literature does in fact say 5.2 v minimum cranking voltage. What can I say? Other than, when I saw that, I said to myself, "then how the H do any of them work'?

I emailed them and asked I just got the email... If I am wrong I will gladly accept it. I guess he did have a typo "will Fine" I assume he meant "Work Fine"

Grayson, boy, you sure make this sound complicated. The bottom line is our 6-volt modules will fine work down to about 4.5-volts. The key to all of this is the coil. You need to run full voltage to a very low resisted coil. We suggest a 1.5-ohm coil for 4 & 6-cylinder applications and 0.6-ohm coils for 8-cylinder applications. Also, it is extremely important to have the Ignitor plate and distributor well grounded.



Thanks,

PerTronix Customer Service

ElipsePC
 

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