8n hydraulic oil chsange

so its plain sae90 about 5 gal

is there a filter to change too?

No filter. Probably lot of sludge in bottom tho.

Make sure you buy GL-1 oil.
Richard in NW SC

If you have a decent hydraulic system and live in Michigan or some point north of the Mason-Dixon line then I would suggest Universal hydraulic fluid from Tractor Supply. Otherwise the 90W is good.

If you have never gone through and manually cleaned out the sludge in the bottom of your hydraulic reservoir, then I suggest you do that as well. Kerosene or some other chemical will work. Pull the pto shaft, drop the pump, and away you go.

where do you live and what are your hyds like? ( and does the sump got water in it? )

uh oh....

uh oh....

Pull the pto shaft, drop the pump, and away you go.


sounds like a big project!

i was going to run the machine 1 hr, drain plugs back to front, then close them, put in kerosene 1 gal, run the pump and pto 5 minutes and then drain the kerosene,
maybe repeat that sequence, voila. that effective?
the oil looks orange and milky, like that river the epa sullied....i replaced the rubber boot on the shifter.....but who had that tractor before was a barbarian

If you run that pump with kerosene in it, you won't have much pump left to worry about cleaning. Kerosene has no lubricating ability. Drop the pump and clean it out. Anything else is a waste of time.
75 Tips

if i have to park one of mine outside i allways put a five gallon bucket over shifter and then tarp it real good .
rick

if i have to park one of mine outside i allways put a five gallon bucket over shifter and then tarp it real good .
rick

Kerosene or any other solvent won't cut this 50 years of crap accumulation.




Yes, that is some of what we dug out of it. Don't forget the rear end area.

thank you, good pix

you have to realize you deal with a nincompoop

ok so no kerosine then to clean out gunk....

after i take the back off, this is what i see? anything to take out?

will i need a new gasket to tighten it after?

fred

(quoted from post at 09:37:25 08/21/15) thank you, good pix

you have to realize you deal with a nincompoop

ok so no kerosine then to clean out gunk....

after i take the back off, this is what i see? anything to take out?

will i need a new gasket to tighten it after?

fred

Click to expand...

o need to split the tractor.....this was just a good picture to show what can build up in there over the years. All that you see that we dug out with our hands was done by removing the round side inspection port, the hyd pump from bottom, and the PTO shaft from rear and reaching through those openings for a handful at a time. When got all you can get, then bring out the diesel or kerosene. Need PTO, pump, inspection port gaskets.

Kerosene will get it loose, but some of it is going to done with a gloved hand and patience. One handful at a time. It will be messy then when you get the large stuff out, you can really soak it down and pull more loose until you get to the bear casting.

It took about three total hours for me to clean out hydraulic reservoir area clean to where I felt comfortable slipping the hydraulic pump back in. When it was said and done, there was a lot of oil litter on the ground to soak up the excess.

P.S. When you start in on removing that sludge, I would not stop until it was as clean as you can possibly get it. Don't fatigue and say, "thats good enough". It seems to me from other postings on this website over the years that when you go to clean it and do it less than the right you are only stirring/making up loose sludge to mess with your hydraulic system.

" after i take the back off, this is what i see? anything to take out?

will i need a new gasket to tighten it after? "


For info on changing the hydraulic fluid, check out tips 3 & 4 at the link below.

With all of the fluid drained out, block the front wheels & get the rear wheels up at least a foot. (you'll see why soon enough) Remove the 4 bolts holding the PTO shaft in & pull it to the rear & out of the tractor. Loosen all of the bolts. Remove all but 2 corner bolts. Then, carefully remove them. If you are lucky, the pump will drop free (and dump a pint or so of hydraulic fluid down your sleeves). If not, wrestle it free. The pump has 'ears' that fit into the housing; wiggle it a bit & it will drop free. If you have the rear tires a foot or more off of the ground, you will have enough arm room to hold the pump & lower it at the same time. Put it on your work bench & remove the safety valve (p/n 638) and the control arm lever (p/n 643) which will allow you to remove the intake & exhaust valves (p/n’s 640 & 698) Drop all of it in a bucket of diesel (or mineral spirits) or your parts washer & let it soak overnight. Once it has a good soaking, get it on the bench & start blowing it out w/ compressed air. Run cleaning fluid into the hydraulic discharge near the test port & make sure you get a good flow out the small hole in the side of the pump were the control valve fits. I don't see much need to pull it down any further just to clean it. But, I always replace the safety valve (p/n 638, about $25) Reinstalling the pump is harder than pulling it out because you have a gasket to worry about. (no sealer on the gasket) And, you will probably need a helper to guide the control rod into the pump rocker shaft unless you’ve done this 6 or 7 times before!

While you have the PTO shaft out, it would be a good time to replace the seal on it. It's got two spring clamps around it. Take your needle nose pliers & remove the one in the front. Then, hang the shaft & bearing housing in your vice & tap the butt end of the shaft; the bearing cap will come off (and the shaft will land on your foot). Then, remove the other spring clip from the other side of the bearing. At this point, remember that you never bought a seal driver & go get a BF socket & drive the seal out. If you have the new style seal, the white side goes out. (open side to the oil) Put some grease on it.

Contrary to conventional wisdom, not a lot of water gets in the oil from the shifter boot. Of course, if it's bad, replace it, but you get water from the draft control spring & the dipstick. But, most water is just a byproduct of the heating/cooling cycle of the oil.

You’ll need a pump gasket, safety valve, inspection plate gasket(s), PTO seal, PTO gasket, gasket sealer & 5 gallons of fluid to do all of the above.


75 Tips

agree with the others,
do it right.....or do nothing at all...
except routinely change the oil.

I don't use any witches brews before a routine change....after all, now how will I get all [i:b6112b3e63]that[/i:b6112b3e63] stuff outta there?..

If everything works, and this is just a 'I got a new tractor' oil change...(good idea)
until you are ready to tear into it....
drop the drain plugs, let it sit overnight to drain, next day put the plugs back in, fill it with the proper oil,
and go work some dirt or something.