New Project: Jubilee (pics)

Walston

Member
Location
Upstate SC
I found out about 5 years ago that a small local oil company had a Jubilee and they used it to provide power to their rod pulling work over rig. They got a new rig and hadn't used it in 5 years so they were gonna scrap it. One of the guys that worked there knew I liked old iron and I was able to buy it for scrap.

I didn't need the tractor at the time and so I picked it up on a trailer and parked it in the barn.

A buddy of mine bought a new place and it has 16 acres or so and he was telling me about needing a tractor. I thought, this is why I saved that Jube. I told him about it, he is fairly mechanical and he was interested. So we drug it out of the barn Saturday morning. I didn't know what to expect.

Front tires are shot. They did hold air long enough to get on the trailer. Back tire looked pretty good buy they are two different sizes. No fluid in the tires, so I suspect the rims are fine.



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This thing has sat for 10 years. When we put it in the barn, I did put MMO in the cylinders, but I was not sure if it was free or not. Wiring is toast. Gas tank empty and dry but some visible rust in the tank. Radiator looks fairly new.

So we put it up on stands, removed the tires and pulled the hood. Engine was free. Oil looked pretty good. No apparent water in any of the oil. I open the distributor, it was a mess. I cleaned everything and hooked it to a battery with temporary wiring. Pulled the carb, it was bone dry but looked decent on the inside, cleaned everything with GUNK. I hooked up a temp tank.



Turned it over, it sounded decent, but no fire. I went and got points, cap rotor, wires plugs and a coil at TSC.

Tried it again and she fired right up. Ran quite well. 40 psi oil pressure. I checked compression after it ran. 70-90 psi in each cylinder. Small leak at a rusted freeze plug.





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I continued the dis-assembly. PTO wouldn't shift.

More pics

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Looks like there was a little water in the hydraulic oil. Not enough to cause freezing problems, but the water got in the little hole that is meant to lubricate the PTO shifter and it was caused it to stick. I was able to get it freed up.

The only other thing I found was the tubing that connects to the acorn nut on the side is all bent up. Not sure the cause of that yet.
 
Hi Walston,

Congratulations on a great start to the project and a great compression reading, oil press and start up. Looks like it is going to get the royal treatment.

You wrote:
"No fluid in the tires, so I suspect the rims are fine."

A popular misconception, even here about Hat rims, is that ballast fluid is the only reason Hat rims were prone to rusting out and hence are somewhat scarce. But I learned while restoring mine, that the primary cause of the Hat channel itself rusting out especially the face inside the rim, was water getting into the channel through the disk mount bolt holes. Once the back side of the channel rusts through, then the water spreads through the entire interior.

So I did my best to seal mine up when I put them back together. I loaded up the back of the mount bolt heads with silicone. I used super thin soaked-in-oil leather washers on the nut side (the ones you see plus another under the flat washers.. I cut them from a tympany drum skin. But it would be simpler to just use silicone both sides.
mvphoto26158.jpg
 
"they used it to provide power to their rod pulling work over rig"

I'm not familiar with the oil industry at all. What does that mean?

The compression readings are low, but after it sat that long I
would probably give it the ATF/MMO treatment as you did and
then work the snot out of it. It might come back just fine.
My 640 was a mosquito fogger until I did just that! :)

Link to that YT post here.
 
(quoted from post at 04:30:18 08/17/15) "they used it to provide power to their rod pulling work over rig"

I'm not familiar with the oil industry at all. What does that mean?

The compression readings are low, but after it sat that long I
would probably give it the ATF/MMO treatment as you did and
then work the snot out of it. It might come back just fine.
My 640 was a mosquito fogger until I did just that! :)

Link to that YT post here.

The rig was used to pull sucker rods (the part that hooks the surface pump jack to the down hole pump). The tractor provided power via it's PTO.

What would be good compression numbers?
 
The working barrel is connected to pump jack by way of joints of metal rods screwed togethor. If the pump quits you have to pull rpds to get to working barrel . A job that is truly hard work and you get increadibly dirty .
 
TSC ignition parts and similar manufacture, are prone to be problematic, you may want to source those later, Napa Echlin, not sure what YT sells, but would imagine they are not what TSC offers. I've had problems with each of the components you replaced, rotor broke apart, points defective. Good to know later once its done, and headed out for work.
 
(quoted from post at 05:51:17 08/17/15)
(quoted from post at 04:30:18 08/17/15) "they used it to provide power to their rod pulling work over rig"

I'm not familiar with the oil industry at all. What does that mean?

The compression readings are low, but after it sat that long I
would probably give it the ATF/MMO treatment as you did and
then work the snot out of it. It might come back just fine.
My 640 was a mosquito fogger until I did just that! :)

Link to that YT post here.

The rig was used to pull sucker rods (the part that hooks the surface pump jack to the down hole pump). The tractor provided power via it's PTO.

What would be good compression numbers?
Thanks Walston (and cowdog) never been around oil fields.

I would want to see at least 100PSI on a red tiger and with
any luck all four cylinders within 10% or so of each other.
I think the spec was 122PSI for a new engine, but don't quote
me. Maybe someone else has that off the top of their head.

After setting that long, I'd still work it then test it again.
 

Thanks for the help Royse.

Owners manual says 120 psi. We are a long way from 100 psi, let alone 120.

I drained the oil and found it to be really thick, I would say the prior owner had 50 weight in it (thus the 40 psi of oil pressure). Since I had it down this far I pulled the head. There is a pretty significant lip at the top of all the cylinders, indicating a good bit of wear. So I am gonna go ahead and rebuild it.
 
(quoted from post at 18:11:36 08/16/15) I found out about 5 years ago that a small local oil company had a Jubilee and they used it to provide power to their rod pulling work over rig. They got a new rig and hadn't used it in 5 years so they were gonna scrap it. One of the guys that worked there knew I liked old iron and I was able to buy it for scrap.

I didn't need the tractor at the time and so I picked it up on a trailer and parked it in the barn.

A buddy of mine bought a new place and it has 16 acres or so and he was telling me about needing a tractor. I thought, this is why I saved that Jube. I told him about it, he is fairly mechanical and he was interested. So we drug it out of the barn Saturday morning. I didn't know what to expect.

Front tires are shot. They did hold air long enough to get on the trailer. Back tire looked pretty good buy they are two different sizes. No fluid in the tires, so I suspect the rims are fine.



26149.jpg
26150.jpg


This thing has sat for 10 years. When we put it in the barn, I did put MMO in the cylinders, but I was not sure if it was free or not. Wiring is toast. Gas tank empty and dry but some visible rust in the tank. Radiator looks fairly new.

So we put it up on stands, removed the tires and pulled the hood. Engine was free. Oil looked pretty good. No apparent water in any of the oil. I open the distributor, it was a mess. I cleaned everything and hooked it to a battery with temporary wiring. Pulled the carb, it was bone dry but looked decent on the inside, cleaned everything with GUNK. I hooked up a temp tank.



Turned it over, it sounded decent, but no fire. I went and got points, cap rotor, wires plugs and a coil at TSC.

Tried it again and she fired right up. Ran quite well. 40 psi oil pressure. I checked compression after it ran. 70-90 psi in each cylinder. Small leak at a rusted freeze plug.





26151.jpg


I continued the dis-assembly. PTO wouldn't shift.

More pics

26152.jpg
26153.jpg
26154.jpg
26155.jpg
:D What a great project, how exciting, wish I could help you.
 
Block, head, crank and flywheel are at the machine shop for work.
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Pulled the rear brakes and axles. Seals needed replaced from the looks of things.

Took the steering box apart to replace the seals. Also need the top bearing for the column. It suffered from no lube. Box looks much prettier.
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Looks like I gotta pull the left Trumpet. the drag link pivot pin is quite loose. As far as I know, the only way to fix that is remove the trumpet and since the axle is out, I guess this is a good time.

I don't know why the pictures are rotated today, they are not that way on my computer.
 
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These photos worn hurt you neck. Seems the site likes pictures from my camera better than the iPhone.

I few painted parts to make sure we like the color.

Brake parts cleaned up and painted.
 

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