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Getting at the fan belt and distributor on a 2N

L

lastcowboy32

Well-known Member
Looks as though the gas tank is mounted with the top sheet metal? So, removing that means draining/disconnecting the tank?

I noticed that front side panels are bolted to the top. Is it possible to leave the top panel bolted to the instrument panel, unbolt the front side panels and go in that way?
 
Yes to both questions, but neither are necessary to get to the fan
belt or distributor. They can be done without removing anything else.
Unless you have a loader and front pump.
 
Distributor is a simple 2 bolts to take off and only way you can put it back on wrong is to force it on and then you buy a new distributor since it has an off see tang so only one way it fits.
The fan belt while a tight fit can be changed with out removing any thing
 
The hood and gas tank do not have to come off.

I find it easier to remove the distributor if I remove the coil, cap, and rotor first. Then remove the tow bolts and they come
right off unless the gasket it stuck.

You might have to remove the generator or Alternator to get the fan belt off.
 
What the guys said below plus I will add that if you just loosen the generator and slip the fan belt off the pulley, you can then work the belt over the fan blade to remove. Reassembly is just reverse procedure.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
</td></tr><tr><td>
TPD9N100.jpg
</td><td>
TPD8N100.jpg
</td></tr></table>
 
Getting the belt off of the pulley is no problem. It's so friggin loose that it flops off the crank pully all of the time. Sometimes it runs in the groove, sometimes it runs on the outer rim, sometimes it runs between the pully and the engine.

I bought this a while ago, and I've just gotten around to trying to fix it/tune it. Whomever put that belt on must have been (comment removed for content)...

The only thing that keeps it from coming off altogether is how tightly the crank pully is packed down into the chassis.

Really? It will pull up and over the fan? Looks tight, but I'll try it.

Thank you all.
 
6v or 12v?

If it's 6v, see tip # 75 for the correct belt size.

But, if it's 12v, you're going to need to measure the belt route to get a correct length because of the many variations in alternator mounting brackets.

The generator, water pump & crank pulleys are 5/8"; sometimes folks make a wrong guess & install a 1/2" wide belt.

And some 12v conversion alternators have a 1/2" wide pulley.
75 Tips
 
It's 6V, but the long tightening bolt/mechanism that adjusts the tension by moving the generator looks as though it has been "re-engineered"

The belt is definitely too thin for all pulleys involved, as well as being too long.
 
You also need to invest in the correct fan belt. It sounds like someone put the wrong belt on it, possibly for a late 8N. If generator has the original tensioning bracket, then simply loosen the mounting bolt, then loosen the tensioning bracket and move the generator out of the way. Yes, the belt will slip over the fan blade. The trick here is to slip it over one fin at a time and rotate the blade as you go.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
</td></tr><tr><td>
TPD9N100.jpg
</td><td>
TPD8N100.jpg
</td></tr></table>
 

Seems hard to do the first few times but will get easier when you know how to maneuver your hands and tools.
 
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