Starter key switch

Johnny007

Member
IF one were frustrated with the poor overheating quality of the aftermarket key switches, would it be possible to cut the wires, thereby rendering the key switch unusable, and then tie the two wires coming off the terminal block together, thereby making the necessary connection? I understand that this would render the tractor "startable" at any time, unless other starting problems exist.

Also, my new coil doesn't sit as tightly as my old one. I've read in the 75 tips that there is supposed to be a gasket below the coil, but a gasket didn't come with the coil. Anyone have a part number for that gasket, or are you all making your own?

Thanks for your time.
 
Well, sure, but how would you turn it off? Turn off the gas?

You'd be risking the engine stopping rotation with the points closed, which would not have good results.
 

Jim, a very good point that I had not considered. OK, I guess i'll just jump the contacts with my alligator clips. Thanks!
 
That's a better solution than hooking the
wires together; otherwise you would burn up
your coil. See tip 38. Re the coil gasket,
it comes in s kit with the other 3 gaskets.
This site has them. So does nnalert's.
75 Tips
 
My switch went bad when the PO owned it. He broke the rear of the switch out and wrapped a piece of wire round it. Permanent on - pulled the tool box reach in - battery disconnect off/ connect on.
 
With a switch turned off there is no current going to the coil and or the points so no problem burning out the coil or the points. I have seen more then one tractor where the key switch has been replaced by a toggle switch or other such heavy duty switch due to the weak ignition switch problem
 
WHAT are you powering with the ignition switch that merits your post "frustrated with the poor overheating quality of the aftermarket key switches"?

Even a switch from "The Land of Almost Right" ain't gonna heat up much powering the ignition system of one of these old tractors at between 3 and 4 Amps.

What's the REST of the story?
 
(quoted from post at 01:14:42 08/12/15) WHAT are you powering with the ignition switch that merits your post "frustrated with the poor overheating quality of the aftermarket key switches"?

Even a switch from "The Land of Almost Right" ain't gonna heat up much powering the ignition system of one of these old tractors at between 3 and 4 Amps.

What's the REST of the story?

The rest of the story is that this year I've have replaced every electrical component with the exception of the alternator...tractor was running fine, for hours at a time. It recently began to cut out after about an hour, then shorter, and shorter. It got to the point where it would run about 1/2 hour and I would have to let it set overnight (or until it cooled down) to restart. I have has at the carb, but no spark when she dies. That says to me one of the components is failing when it heats up. Logical choices - ignition switch and/or coil. Last night I ran her, fully expecting her to die out after a few minutes and I was going to try to alligator clip the back terminals. Well didn't she run the entire time (about an hour) without fail before the rains came and chased us in from the field?! Will have to keep my clips handy for next time....
 
?
your switch is bad........get a switch.
swing by an autostore and browse the vast selection.
keys, toggles, whatever.....it's just a switch.
don't want to deal with replacing the old one exactly?
so...don't.
you are already doing the clip/jumper/bypass thing so you know which 2 wires.
put a switch in...put it where you want it....it's your tractor.

Pulling a junk tractor in for the first time here....I have a alligator clipped test wire in my toolbox like yours.....on mine I put a $3 switch in....the middle of the wire....some cheap toggle switches even come with some wire built into the switch.

we still need Bob's question answered.
Cheap tractor ignition switches just switch power to the ignition. ya can't run lights or other heavy draw things thru them.

ps.....tractors.....sooner or later there will come a situation....you'll need to shut that thing down....[i:94d151d679]right now.[/i:94d151d679]..without fumbling around...get a switch on it
 
(quoted from post at 15:34:13 08/12/15)
(quoted from post at 01:14:42 08/12/15) WHAT are you powering with the ignition switch that merits your post "frustrated with the poor overheating quality of the aftermarket key switches"?

Even a switch from "The Land of Almost Right" ain't gonna heat up much powering the ignition system of one of these old tractors at between 3 and 4 Amps.

What's the REST of the story?

The rest of the story is that this year I've have replaced every electrical component with the exception of the alternator...tractor was running fine, for hours at a time. It recently began to cut out after about an hour, then shorter, and shorter. It got to the point where it would run about 1/2 hour and I would have to let it set overnight (or until it cooled down) to restart. I have has at the carb, but no spark when she dies. That says to me one of the components is failing when it heats up. Logical choices - ignition switch and/or coil. Last night I ran her, fully expecting her to die out after a few minutes and I was going to try to alligator clip the back terminals. Well didn't she run the entire time (about an hour) without fail before the rains came and chased us in from the field?! Will have to keep my clips handy for next time....

Upgrade it and remove the weak link.... I have had my fair share of new OEM aftermarket switched do zackly the same thang... They are not worth the plastic container they ship them in...

Like a 6V battery/generator they are on my hunt down and kill list... I do agree from a diagnostic standpoint confirm the amperage draw that is being placed on the switch even tho its coming off and gonna be ground up into sausage and shipped back to china...
 
There are also nice all- brass and chrome switches at boat places. Some even claim to be waterproof, whatever that means. I would look there first,
especially if I had an outdoor tractor.

(Odd thing with mine is it has a 3 position cheapo generic car ignition switch which was on the tractor since I got it 35 years ago and still works
perfectly as long as I remember to give the key an extra jiggle in each direction to "seat" the contacts and and an occasional squirt of LWD40 down the
keyslot).
 
(quoted from post at 11:07:13 08/12/15)
(Odd thing with mine is it has a 3 position cheapo generic car ignition switch which was on the tractor since I got it 35 years ago and still works
perfectly as long as I remember to give the key an extra jiggle in each direction to "seat" the contacts and and an occasional squirt of LWD40 down the
keyslot).

funny stuff ....old tractors
same here on a little JD I have. original switch, multi position,
the ign position is 62 years worn..and being on Green..big $.
Having installed a voltmeter..(don't like ammeters)
when/if it starts to die a quick glance at the voltmeter needle and its wired 'always on when the switch is on' light to confirm.....switch jiggle and I'm on my way.
 
(quoted from post at 22:44:39 08/13/15)
(quoted from post at 11:07:13 08/12/15)
(Odd thing with mine is it has a 3 position cheapo generic car ignition switch which was on the tractor since I got it 35 years ago and still works
perfectly as long as I remember to give the key an extra jiggle in each direction to "seat" the contacts and and an occasional squirt of LWD40 down the
keyslot).

funny stuff ....old tractors
same here on a little JD I have. original switch, multi position,
the ign position is 62 years worn..and being on Green..big $.
Having installed a voltmeter..(don't like ammeters)
when/if it starts to die a quick glance at the voltmeter needle and its wired 'always on when the switch is on' light to confirm.....switch jiggle and I'm on my way.

The switch on my JD MC is the multiple position one and it has two ign positions, one for high charge and one for low charge. It was not working all the time like you say so I bought a new one off ebay and it would not work, so I took the old one apart and cleaned the connections inside and it works like a charm. no more jigggling the switch :D
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top