Marvel schebler issue

End of last season, my tractor would only start with a little squirt of ether. Figured it was carb rebuild time. Finally got around to getting the kit and did it.

Now, I've rebuilt several of these over the years, so I'm pretty aware of all the passages. Did my carb dip, then followed up with a 24 hour soak in evaporust. Wires and compressed air run through every passage. I even surfaced the two halves and the manifold mounting surface.

Put it all back together and same symptoms. One thing I didn't notice before the rebuild is that the power adjusting needle is threaded as far out as it can go before it will just fall out. If I thread it in more than half a turn, it will die.

Fresh points, condensor and timing set dead on. The tractor has never idled at 400 before, now it does. But the idle mixture screw is about half a turn out.

Float dead on at 1/4". I've sprayed starting fluid around the shafts, intake mounting area.

So, now I'm stumped. It sounds good at full throttle, but it's belching black smoke and you can smell the richness.

Any suggestions or ideas would be much appreciated!!

Thank you.
 
if you are running with the needle almost all the way out... then you either have missed something and it is still dirty, or you have a massive vacume leak.
 
Kind of what I was thinking. Would valve adjustment have an effect?? Head gasket? Guess a compression test is next on the troubleshooting list??
 
[b:bb53721949][i:bb53721949]
If all you did, was to soak and blow out with air....then you have a plugged up main fuel passage, main jet,or the bowl vent is plugged up.

I would suggest you totally dismantle the whole carb, and run wires through EVERY passage in that carb!!!!
Then blow the passages out with about 60-80 lbs of air pressure.

If yer lucky you may not have to do that more than once, to get the carb cleaned out!!!???

Gary[/i:bb53721949][/b:bb53721949]
 
you are shooting all over. .. put the shotgun down.

backup to the carb, and at most, the manifold.

vacume leaks will likely be in the carb gaskets, or maybee the manifold gaskets.

vacume leak can be checked with a can of spray oil, dousing the carb while running to see if rpm changes. don't start any fires..
 
I agree with GB you have a passage way or 2 still clogged up. When I rebuild a carb I use a torch tip cleaner tool to poke out all the passage ways and air plus spray carb cleaner.
 
Ed.........sound guy is correct, put the shotgun down. As fer compression test, spec's are 90psi min. Good runnin' N-engines are usually around 110psi. Brand NEW REBUILT engines are about 125psi. Iff'n yer lookin' fer vacuum leaks, spray with WD-40, its non-flammable.

As fer yer carbie jets, adjust the down-pointing mainjet to 2-turns and LEAVITT!!! Adjust the side-pointing idlemix fer FASTEST idle NOT SMOOTHEST idle. Understand the difference? The idlemix is BASSACKWARDS; out fer lean, IN fer ENRICHMENT. Usually 1/8-1/4 turn.

You do know to adjust the valve clearance you haffta GRIND the END of the valve stem fer more clearance. As a general rule, valve clearance (0.015) doesn't change much. I would encourage a compression test. That will tell you more than valve clearance, like blown head gasket. We recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. ........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
Ok. Going to pull the damn thing off and go through the passages again. I sprayed everything with ether and got no change in idle. Will report back soon!
 
(quoted from post at 13:56:49 07/29/15) Ok. Going to pull the damn thing off and go through the passages again. I sprayed everything with ether and got no change in idle. Will report back soon!
ote that some passages intersect others as in a "T intersection, so you can't always insert a wire in one hole & have it come out another. Sometimes you insert in one hole & look/feel to determine that it makes it to the intersection. Squirting cleaner in one hole & having it come out another isn't always good enough either....it may need to come out 2 or 3 other places.
 
So I'm just getting around to posting an update. I not only
wanted another rebuild kit to do this again, I wanted to double
check the jet sizes that were in the carb. I emailed back and
forth with McDonald carbs and they suggested the power jet
needle may not have been correct for the carb. Sure enough,
they were correct.

I replaced only the needle and NOW I could spray carb
cleaner on the throttle shaft and detect a leak there. Runs like
a champ now.
 
(quoted from post at 19:48:49 08/04/15) So I'm just getting around to posting an update. I not only
wanted another rebuild kit to do this again, I wanted to double
check the jet sizes that were in the carb. I emailed back and
forth with McDonald carbs and they suggested the power jet
needle may not have been correct for the carb. Sure enough,
they were correct.

I replaced only the needle and NOW I could spray carb
cleaner on the throttle shaft and detect a leak there. Runs like
a champ now.
b:605cae7331][i:605cae7331]
Ed.;
That's good news. I've been watching for an update, and am happy that you took the time to figure it all out.
Another MS carb, saved from the trash can!!!!

Good on ya!!!!!

Gary[/i:605cae7331][/b:605cae7331]
 

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