Hello fellow N fans. I apologize for how long this is but I believe these notes are pertinent in helping with the solution. I am having one heck of a time getting my B-I-L’s 1952, 6 volt, side distributor running again after my well intentioned offer to repaint it for him. Paint job went well and looks great, I will post a pic AFTER I can drive it out of my garage. He also popped for a few new shiny bobbles for the old gal.
First a bit of a back ground, the tractor was purchased by his grandfather new, always been in the barn and while it had not been started in a few years, I was able to get it running fairly well before I stated the repaint job and even drove it around after the last power wash and oven cleaner session on the temporary gas tank set-up. Removed the manifold, distributor, (nope I did not scribe a mark, my bad), new carb-kit, new wiring harness and new battery, (charged between each night of trying, 6.4 volts) and new cables. The paint job went well and now after all of my try’s, she doesn’t want to start. Very few ignition “hits” and most seem to be coming through the carb and not the exhaust. After carb-kit, I mounted on my 8N and tuned it in to verify the carb is operating OK. I have great fire, proven by jumping better than ¼” gap on my adjustable spark check. Compression tests include #2 at 100PSI and #1, #3 and #4 = 110PSI dry. Wet all go up to 120 PSI. All valves moved up and down when visually seen through the ports, (I removed the manifold to make sure I removed my masking of the ports at paint).
I have the FO-4 manual and have printed and followed all search recommendations and How to’s I can find on the net. I was just wondering if anyone had any other ideas to offer?
Notes:
We can find the marks on the flywheel in only 1 spot, [ 1, 20*, 15*, 10*, 5*, yellow mark for 4* and 0].
We can set this with the hand crank and notice, 2 revolutions of the crank equals 1 revolution of the distributor. We also can determine compression order as expected, 1-2-4-3. I cannot get the compression stroke on #1 to line up anywhere near the marks, on the flywheel. We have jumpered around the ignition switch. My gas set-up is a small clear peanut butter jar, with a connection glued to the bottom center and a flexible hose that goes into the inlet, minus the brass filter coupler, as it goes into the carb housing. This was used to run it multiple times when moving outside to power wash before paint. Carb throat is open to AIR, Fuel has been proven prior to and since with my set-up, Spark is very bright across a ¼ inch and compression is well within range. This HAS to be timing correct?
While I know it takes 4 things to run, Air, fuel, compression and spark, (AT THE RIGHT TIME), I am having a very difficult time in finishing this thing off.
HELP. Please.
I thank you for any advice you could offer.
Duffy 8N
First a bit of a back ground, the tractor was purchased by his grandfather new, always been in the barn and while it had not been started in a few years, I was able to get it running fairly well before I stated the repaint job and even drove it around after the last power wash and oven cleaner session on the temporary gas tank set-up. Removed the manifold, distributor, (nope I did not scribe a mark, my bad), new carb-kit, new wiring harness and new battery, (charged between each night of trying, 6.4 volts) and new cables. The paint job went well and now after all of my try’s, she doesn’t want to start. Very few ignition “hits” and most seem to be coming through the carb and not the exhaust. After carb-kit, I mounted on my 8N and tuned it in to verify the carb is operating OK. I have great fire, proven by jumping better than ¼” gap on my adjustable spark check. Compression tests include #2 at 100PSI and #1, #3 and #4 = 110PSI dry. Wet all go up to 120 PSI. All valves moved up and down when visually seen through the ports, (I removed the manifold to make sure I removed my masking of the ports at paint).
I have the FO-4 manual and have printed and followed all search recommendations and How to’s I can find on the net. I was just wondering if anyone had any other ideas to offer?
Notes:
We can find the marks on the flywheel in only 1 spot, [ 1, 20*, 15*, 10*, 5*, yellow mark for 4* and 0].
We can set this with the hand crank and notice, 2 revolutions of the crank equals 1 revolution of the distributor. We also can determine compression order as expected, 1-2-4-3. I cannot get the compression stroke on #1 to line up anywhere near the marks, on the flywheel. We have jumpered around the ignition switch. My gas set-up is a small clear peanut butter jar, with a connection glued to the bottom center and a flexible hose that goes into the inlet, minus the brass filter coupler, as it goes into the carb housing. This was used to run it multiple times when moving outside to power wash before paint. Carb throat is open to AIR, Fuel has been proven prior to and since with my set-up, Spark is very bright across a ¼ inch and compression is well within range. This HAS to be timing correct?
While I know it takes 4 things to run, Air, fuel, compression and spark, (AT THE RIGHT TIME), I am having a very difficult time in finishing this thing off.
HELP. Please.
I thank you for any advice you could offer.
Duffy 8N
