Problem Removing Rear Wheel

[b:1db2e33c59]Background[/b:1db2e33c59]: Seal leaks because previous mechanic didn't use permatex when he re-assembled it. I need to re-do the job.

[b:1db2e33c59]Problem[/b:1db2e33c59]: Bottom nut (see photo) turns stud so wheel will not come off.

[b:1db2e33c59]Question[/b:1db2e33c59]: What's the best practice to get the thing off? I tried to rotate wheel so the weight of wheel would pull the stud tight but that didn't work. I put some Blaster Penetrating oil on it - no go. I think my options are to cut it off or take off the big nut and pull the wheel. The last option seems a bit scary because I'm working in gravel. A nice concrete floor with a wheel dolly might be convenient - but I don't have that luxury. Ideas?

When the stud turns the best option is to cut/grind the nut off and then replace to lug stud

I think I would try a nut splitter and a chisel.

Perfect! I'm going to use my grinder with a cutting wheel and replace the stud.

What's this about Permatex when installing seal? I have never done or even heard of this. Is it leaking from between the housing and the seal?

i'd cut it with a grinder or chissle, torch or nut splitter. splitter will be hard on that one.

stud is a lost cause anyway.

I know some people will try to save the stud and tack them in, but I would not, unless the hub was damaged or something.

seal leaks because it is a n ford---most of them leak at 1 time or another.

When you do get wheel off and new stub in place.

Use a light coat of anti seize on studs as you tighten nuts back on wheel,

Should eliminate this problem in the future.

The short answer may be to refer you to Smith's website/tutorial on his technique for doing the seals: http://www.oldfordtractors.com/rep.htm#q15

A longer answer is my "story" of getting my tractor repaired by professional mechanics. (I am not a mechanic - and the tractor had so many problems I was "overwhelmed")

I had mechanic #1 do the brakes and rear seals. He did this work without using permatex. After a few days of use, the seal began to bleed significantly on the left side. I complained to the shop that did the work and I wasn't going to pay someone $200 to haul it back to the shop for me.
they said they'd make it right... only mechanic #1 would not come to my place in the hills to re-do the work so he was quit or was fired... I don't know which.

Mechanic #2 was a younger guy in his 40's. He took the wheel off and said, "Oh! He forgot the permatex." (Mentally I thought, "What's permatex?")

Since the right wheel didn't have problem, I didn't have him "fix it".

Last weekend I cut a bunch of firewood and hauled it back to the house with the 8N going up a steep hill. The front end became a little "lite" so the tractor would not steer properly so I used the right brake to steer with: lock the right tire and let the left get me back on course. When I got back to the house I could see the beginnings of bleeding on the right hub.

I did some reading - and found a service bulletin that suggests the wheels be stamped on the hub and rear axle so that they go back like they came off... otherwise there will not be a perfect fit. On later tractors - (says the documentation) the stamp is already there. Anyway, I doubt if early mechanics took care of that and my wheels were put back on with less than the loving care of one who owns the machine. I also suspect that permatex on the splines will compensate for not putting the hub/axle back properly.

So, that's why I'm using permatex.

You guys are the best! I appreciate my tractor so much more and enjoy the learning experience! "Anti-seize" - something new to me....

The rear seals are adequate at best. I've had some
never give me any trouble, And I've had some that
always weep with every single part in there new. It's
a gamble.

You mention a hill. Have you checked the fluid level
in the rear end? If it is high it will cause you grief.
Don't rely on the hydraulic fluid dipstick. Park it on
level ground and take the bottom bolt out of the
plate that holds the dipstick. The circular plate as
big as a cantaloupe that is at your left heel. Let the
excess run out of there until it stops and put the bolt
back.

Good point! I had not thought of the steep hill being a problem. The first time I took that hill I had a full tank of gas and it started pouring out over the engine! It is probably the original gas cap from 1947 - would I expect a new one to make a good seal?

I have gone up the hill before without the right side showing signs of leakage - I think I just stressed it this time.