Please tell me I don't have to replace my steering box?

Big Trees

Member
Hello y'all, I was just out on my 8N (side dist) and I bumped a small tree when I let off of the clutch in first gear with the steering wheel turned to the left. When I did I heard a noise and now my steering wheel is loose at the top and it won't turn properly. I can turn the steering wheel to the right and it seems to respond fine but if I turn it left the steering wheel starts to come off. Is there any other options for me to fix it or do I HAVE to have the steering box rebuilt/replaced? Thanks in advance.
 
Looks like you will need to pull the sectors to see if and what damage was done. If lucky you just knocked it out of time.
 

Alright, thank you very much for the response, doug. I will start searching to see what information about the "sectors" I can find since I don't have the slightest clue what it is or what it's supposed to look like/function like. I appreciate your response and advice.
 
knocked out of time? really? have you EVER seen the sector gears an ballnut assy? have you seen just how big those teeth are and how they mesh? if it was knocked out of time one or more of the following are present:

1, the teeth are worn so heavily that they were barely engaging and yes, you will need new sectors and ballnut depending on which are worn the most.

2, teeth BROKE, in which case you will need new sectors and ballnut depending on what actually broke.

3, the steering box casting ruptured alowing gears to overide, in which case all damaged parts need replacing!

this is not a 9n/2n steering system..
 
sounds like at least the top thrust bearing died, and likely the top bushing bearing was already dead or died in tandem.... with the top thrust bearing dead, the shaft and steering wheel will look like it is unscrewing fromt he stering box whle turning one direction, and usually it is hard to steer that way.

don't run it like this, rollers from the failed bearing can be lodged inbetween the sector gears and sector and ballnut.

with the top bushing gone, the shaft is unsupported and with no thrust bearing, the ballnut and shaft can deflect away from the forward sector when turning.


they are NOT hard boxes to rebuild. Very easy actually.
 

Thank you VERY much for the response and your advice, soundguy. I have it parked and I can't move it out of it's location without the steering working so I won't be moving it. I sure was hoping I wasn't going to have to rebuilt it but I know with your experience you definitely know what you're talking about so it looks like I better start pricing parts and figuring out how to take this thing apart. If anybody can point me in the direction to any posts on here that explain how to do it and where to get parts I would appreciate that. I'm about to start searching but who knows how long that'll take until I find a thread with the info.

On another note, if anybody is near Kaufman County Texas and wants to make some money doing it while I watch and learn I would be happy to do that.

Thanks again, soundguy!!
 
well.. I typed out a big message telling you the steps needed to get to the box and all.. but the board software ate it, and I don't have the time needed to thumb all that back in.


you can likely move the tractor unless the steering feels locked up. tight to one direction is ok.

I&T fo-4 manual tells you how to do it.

bulk of the work is taking 50% of the tractor apart to get TO the steering box.


sorry that the board software ATE the better reply..
 

Thank you for the reply and I sure wish the software wasn't working against me LOL.

I have the F0 4 manual but my problem is it's more worded for somebody who knows what they're looking at or for. And I don't know either haha but I'm more than willing to learn. And it doesn't say what to take off and what not to, unless I haven't seen that part yet, I'll look further before I tear it apart. I'd rather not take of stuff that's not needed.

I was able to straighten out the wheels manually to pull the tractor up a little and out of the way but I can only turn the wheel one way and then I'd have to turn them manually the opposite direction. I think I'll leave it where it's at so I don't further damage anything. Where would you find the parts at? Local store or internet only? I sincerely appreciate the help!!

In case you or anybody else wants to email me something instead of posting here, my email is [email protected].

Thanks!
 

In my initial post I put front dist but I meant side dist. I'm sure most noticed by the pic of the steering box but I just realized I put wrong description.

Soundguy, when I turn the wheel to the left and it starts to lift out of the column I can see some of the bearing balls are loose in there so you're correct on your assumption. You probably have forgot more about these tractors than most remember LOL. I pb blasted the nut on the steering wheel and waiting a while and hope I can get the nut off and remove the steering wheel to get a better look at it.
 
The top thrust bearing is shot.

You will need to take the steering whell off, the hood off and the dash so you can get the shaft housing off the top of the steering box. Really
should pull both pitman arms and the pitman shafts out too in order to get all the pieces of metal from the broken bearing. There will be lots of
old gook in there to clean out.

Observe how the pitman arms are pointed and maybe mark the tractor so you can get them back in time when you replace the pitman shafts./

It is a good idea to observe how the gears are before you take them out of the box too so you can get them back in time. It's really just a matter
of putting them back where they are middle of the gear teeth.

Zane
 

Thank you very much for the reply and advice, Zane. I have the steering wheel nut soaked in pb blaster now and hope to get started on it soon. I have took notes of your advice and I will follow it. Being this is my first rodeo with this, I heard what you said about marking the arms but I'm not exactly sure where to mark them at. I will just mark anywhere that I think will benefit me putting it back together. I will certainly try to remember how the gears are situated. Thanks a lot, I sincerely appreciate the help!!
 
(quoted from post at 11:27:25 07/30/15) well.. I typed out a big message telling you the steps needed to get to the box and all.. but the board software ate it, and I don't have the time needed to thumb all that back in.

You know what I've wondered about this board? Why don't we have stickies? I've been here for a while but on countless forums over the years and this is one of the few that I haven't seen the most often asked questions lodged up at the top for the FNGs to peruse before asking the Top 10 "Why My Doesn't My N Work". Would save the board experts the arduous task of retyping the same thing over and over. Heck, I've read Dell's sparkie dogma in posts from 5 years ago in the archives!
 
Drain tank, fuel line off,steer wheel off, hood off, battery out, battery box out,wireing, oil line, dash out, Tada .. Now you see the steering box
 
That little bearing/bushing under the steering wheel just centers the steering shaft, its likely bad, but the real bad thrust bearing is at the top of the box. There is another on the bottom.

You can get the bearings here, might want to do seals and all, your call. Bearings at a minimum, and if no seals pack with #0 or 00 grease, not #2
 
I've had mine out twice now to rebuild. Not hard, took me about 2 hours to get everything off and out of the way.

One thing I learned.....take the two bolts out of the bottom of the dog legs and take them off with the hood. Did it the other way first time (taking hood off of dog legs and it was a pain in the butt trying to get my big hands in under the hood to put the nuts and bolts back in between the front of the hood and and top of the dog legs.

You can get the parts you need at your local New Holland dealer. Mine had all in stock.

Big Dog
 

Soundguy, thank you for your response and the list of steps that I need to take to get to the box. I will follow those accordingly as I know you know the tractor VERY well. I have another question for you, I was reading older posts and in one you said that you would leave the box in the tractor instead of taking it out to work on. Do you still suggest doing it that way? I probably would of took it out if I hadn't read that by you. I will search this site for the parts, didn't realize they were sold here. This site is great. Thank you for your continued help.
 
Mdparrot, thanks for the reply and the advice that you've learned from doing it first hand. I will take the dog legs off with the hood as you suggested. I appreciate the suggestions and the reply. Hope you don't have a 3rd time anytime soon lol, if you do it sounds like you have it down pretty good at this point haha. I'll check local dealers like you suggested to so hopefully I can get it back moving soon. It's in a spot that is not ideal for me so I need it moved quickly. Thank you.
 
My third time will be to replace mine with a late model steering box. :eek:)

Adjusting the backlash will take a bit. Replacing the bearings is easy. Your FO-4 manual will tell you how.
 
I have seen the splines strip out in the steering wheel and it would act as you described... All it needed was a new wheel.. Its worth removing and look'N at maybe you will get lucky... The steering wheel has gotta come off anyways... If the wheel comes rite off its suspect it its stuck its notcher wheel..
 
"I will just mark anywhere that I think will benefit me putting it back together"

In addition to that, take pictures for your first go around. On anything.
To me pictures are a great reference to put it back as it was.

Also, there is more than one FO-4 manual. Mine has 152 pages.
 

MdParrott, Hobo, Royse....Thank you all for your responses.

Md, I will surely be referencing my f0 4 manual, thanks for your help.

Hobo, I wish I was lucky enough to just have to replace the steering wheel but that's not the case it seems. When I took off the acorn nut from the steering wheel, the wheel still wouldn't come off, I'll be out there today pulling and banging trying to get it off. I wish I was that lucky to just replace the wheel lol. Thanks.

Royse, thank you for the suggestion to take pics. I thought of doing it but I might have forgot had you not reminded me. I will surely take pics. Thank you.
 
Most of the time I leave them on the tractor, if I replace the lower bearing race, then ill usually remove them to get them in the shop
 

Ok, I'll take that into consideration when doing it. I'm not sure if I will replace that one or not. Doubtful if I don't need to. I know one of the seals are bad because of a leak so I'm doing seals also like you suggested. Thanks a bunch for helping!
 
What usually happens is a sector seal dies, oil drains out to the level of the low side of the sector. Top bearing and race go unlubed, bearing almost always dies, sometimes race is ok. Lower bearing usually has some lube. I've torn apart boxes like tho that ran with 1" lube in the, lower bearing and race were like new, upper bearing broke, race scratched, and sectors worn as well as ballnut. Lube makes a difference.
 

That makes sense and sounds like that's what happened with me. When I went to go look at the tractor a couple weeks ago (first tractor purchase) and I noticed oil residue and asked what it was from. He said it was the steering leaking and just to put grease from a grease gun in there and it wouldn't leak out.

I read some threads here and knew I needed the JD grease or similar and was planning on getting it this weekend when I go into town. But as it looks I'll be looking for more than just grease lol.

I have a place not far from me that machines motors and sells parts etc, I'm thinking I'm going to try to get some bearings out and take them up there and they might be able to match them in store for me. The seals I'll likely have to order online or find a dealer. If time wasn't an issue, I'd order it on this site but I need to get this thing moved soon.
 

Big Trees,

You have my permission to friend me on facebook. Christopher Maxwell, Middleville NY (maybe Utica...can't remember what I put for hometown.)

Anyway, there is a photo album...Rebuilding Dr Mike's Ford 640.

SoundGuy and others talked me through a similar rebuild. I took pictures and put them in that photo album.

You are welcome to friend me, I'll accept, and you would have access to that photo album.

Good luck.
 
When the steering went on the tractor that I rebuilt, we limped it back to the garage without using the steering wheel.

It took two people.

One person drove.

The other person used a long steel bar (I have a 14 pound, 6' steel bar that I use to drill fence post holes) to turn the front tires every so often by putting the bar between the back of the rim and the spindle.

It's a job that will go soooooo much better near your garage, as opposed to out in the field.

It also pays to ask the guys here where they would get parts for this. I went straight to a dealer, parts were 246 bucks. When I posted that here, the guys said that I paid about four times too much.

Sector arm seals aren't the only place that oil can leak out. In my case, the actual cast iron housing had a crack. The side walls are very thin compared to the base. There is a weak point where they meet. I JB-welded the crack in this particular gearbox with good results (so far). My particular gearbox had been rebuilt only a year or two before by someone else. I wonder if they pounded on it too much to get the sector shafts out and caused the crack? That rebuild should have lasted years.
 
You may have a bear of a time getting those bearings at other than a ford/nh/tractor parts dealer .

They are barrel shaped rollers, not cylinders, balls or tapered. The top bushing is also one/off... Not an on the shelf part . Races for the bearings the same.

Seals you CAN find.. But they are useless without the rest of the parts.

Lastly, use the manual to re time the box, and adjust shim stack for no play and a hair of preload on thrust bearings, then adjust backlash so that you don't bind when turned full right or left. Adjusting tight centered usally makes it too tight on side to side locks
 
(reply to post at 08:38:16 07/31/15)
Lastcowboy, thank you for your response and I'll send you a friend request when I get FB pulled up later. I use FB only to communicate with my dog friends so it will be a profile picture of a dog and my FB name is "Gasman Stan". Thanks for the reply and info to your FB so I can see your pics. Very much appreciated!!
 

I would love to get the tractor up towards the house but it's in the woods and I have to get it in between two trees that are just wide enough for me to drive it through with good steering, lol without steering will be a pain in the butt. Hopefully I can find the parts at a good price, I'll wait on them if it's going to cost me $2** from a dealer. Thanks for your tips and pointers. Every one is very helpful. Thanks again.
 

Soundguy, I believe I'll probably just order the parts instead of trying to hunt them down locally. I may waste time doing that and come up empty handed when the parts could already be on their way to me.

I'm not going to lie...lol...The last part of your comment about re-timing the box has me confused since it sounds like you're speaking a foreign language to me :D but I'm sure when I get the thing apart and can visualize what you're speaking of I will understand it a lot easier. I do have the manual so hopefully with that and you all's kind help I'll be able to conquer this task.

I appreciate everyone's help who has responded! Means a lot to me!
 
Here's the timing part.

Back sector has teeth on front.

Forward sector has teeth on back and front.

When you slide the sectors in you mesh the teeth, thus you have to coin teeth to mesh them at the right spot. The wormshaft has a ball it on it, the nut has teeth on one side, it meshes with the front teeth on the front sector.

You will have the box top column and thrust bearings replaced and wormshaft installed.. At that point, centering ball it, and sectors as you mesh them. You will also be putting oval covers on that hold the sector backlash adjuster studs. You will see the slot the ride in to push/pull the sectors side to side to change gear backlash.

With sector arms on, wheel centered, both sector arms will be slightly swept back.
 
Thank you, soundguy, for taking the time to respond and list the steps for me. Without looking at it, I'm still halfway understanding but I'm sure that when I put my eyes on it, it will start making sense to me right away. I know it will. Just having never seen anything like that, it's hard for me to picture it at this point.

I was looking on this site at the parts and was wondering besides these 2 separate "parts", do you think I'll need anything else? I might have missed something and I want to make sure I order the correct parts.

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-8N_Steering-Shaft-Seat-and-Seal-Kit-Upper_8N_STRKIT.html

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-8N_Steering-Shaft-Bearing-and-Cup-Assembly-QTY-2_8N3505.html


Continued thanks to you!!!
 
"without steering will be a pain in the butt"

Pull it backwards if possible. It will steer straighter
that way as long as you are taking it slow and easy.
It will still need adjustment, but you are dragging
the fronts in line instead of trying to push them around.
 

Sorry, soundguy, I didn't realize that they appeared like that, I'll try to do something different to get it to come through. Thanks for your help.


Royse, thank you for your advice about steering it. I realized it would be worth it to try to get it up by the house so I drove it up there. At the cost of driving through some brush that I didn't want to but I got it up by the house now. It was easier to steer as it was moving than I expected using my feet to steer with the rods.

I have the steering wheel removed so now I'm just going to read the steering section on this manual a couple times tonight and try to get things taken apart tomorrow. After I take pics and notes of how things are put together. Thanks to all that have chimed in, it's very much appreciated!!
 

Go figure, I can't even get started without having troubles. I'm trying to remove the fuel line from the carb and the line doesn't seem to want to come off. I'm about to strip this nut, if I haven't already. Anybody have any suggestions on that? You can see I'm holding the "base" part with an adjustable wrench and then using a 7/16 to try to remove the line. But it's not working. Thanks in advance.

 
A line wrench is made for just exactly that purpose.
They've saved my lines quite a few times! :)

Photo borrowed from the WWW.
mvphoto25293.jpg
 

lol Thanks for the pic and suggestion for the line wrench, that just went on my "to get" list. Thanks Royse.



Carlntexas, I'm draining it as we speak. I have almost a 5 gal bucket filled already and a spare ready to collect. Thanks for the tip!
 


Would anybody mind helping me figure exactly which bearings and seals I will need? I would really appreciate it!

These are the two links I posted earlier in this thread. This time I copy/pasted all of the info and the pics.

** Ford 8N Steering Shaft Bearing and Cup Assembly - QTY 2


Description: 1-3/4 O.D.. For tractor models 8N, NAA, Jubilee, 600, 800, 601, 801, 2000, 3000, 4000. Price is for 2 Sets (2 Bearings and 2 races. 2 sets are required per steering shaft/top and bottom. Replaces 8N3571 and 8N3552.

Steering Shaft Bearing and Cup Assembly - QTY 2 Part Number 8N3505

$38.52


** Ford 8N Steering Shaft Seat & Seal Kit - Upper


Description: For 8N, NAA. This kit contains: 8N3570 Seal (Item 3), 8N3520 Spring (Item 4), 8N3518 Seat (Item 5), 8N3517 Bearing (upper) (Item 6).

Steering Shaft Seat & Seal Kit - Upper Part Number 8N_STRKIT

$32.09




If anybody can help me order the right parts I would be forever grateful. If I need any others can you please tell me which ones and I'll find them.

Thank you ALL for the continued help!!
 

Hey there, it's me again lol. I'm trying to get the dash off and I know this throttle lever (in 1st pic) needs to come off to get the dash off.

Can you all tell me if the screw at the bottom of the lever (2nd pic) needs to be unscrewed to pull the lever up? That's what my plan is and I've undone it 3 full turns but can't pull lever up and out of the way yet. I don't want to do too much and cause myself more work than needed.

Thanks again.


 
I took the screw out and the throttle lever came out as I was hoping and I got the dash off. I'm looking at the steering box now (included pics) ready to take on this task, just a little nervous about messing something up or forgetting the place of something when I open this. I'm going to read back through this thread again and hopefully I feel more confident when I'm done lol. Thanks to you all!




 
I can't seem to get the shaft and ballnut removed. From all I've read it seems it should lift out pretty easy. Does anybody know why mine is not coming out? Thanks in advance.

 

Do y'all think I should remove my "double sector" to get the shaft out? I was going to earlier but I didn't want to take that off if I could have done it without doing that.

Thanks
 

Well, I was hoping somebody would be kind enough to tell me if I should take out the sectors or not to get the shaft out. Since no responses I'll try to do it that way today. I hope I"m not supposed to do that. I know it's going to be a tough time getting the pitman arms off.
 
Sector shafts need to be pulled to get the shaft out. They need to come out anyway to clean the box out and check the teeth. You also need to replace the sector shaft seals they are leaking oil which caused the problem you are having.
 

Ok, great. Thank you very much for your response and advice, carlntexas. I will be headed outside to start on that very soon. I SINCERELY appreciate you confirming what my next step needs to be.
 
After you get the arms off take the box off tractor just 4 bolts much easier to work on and clean out.

Pittman arms can be a bugger to get off I cough't get a puller on mine. I used a wood slitter wedge drove one side than the other side after using PB blaster. I don't know if this is recommended or not but it worked on mine.
 

Thanks for the tip man, I honestly have no idea how I'm going to get mine off. I don't have a puller and doubt I'd have room to get it on either. I'll let pb blaster soak in a while and then get to banging with a hammer. Hope I don't bang too hard and break something lol.

Thanks again!!
 
Big Trees,

As well as the Flare Nut wrenches for line fittings I have vise grips in a style that doesn't chew up everything with its teeth. It's called a locking wrench and it binds on three sides of a hex nut.

LockingWrench

Also, a trick i learned when using a flare nut wrench on a line fitting, is to just offset the wrench handle of what you are using to hold the female end of things, with the handle of the flare nut wrench . . . so that you can just squeeze the two wrenches toward each other with your hands. This totally minimizes the chance of doing any damage wherever the female portion is fixed and/or of overtightening or disturbing that female part in the carb casting.

TT
 


Carl & TallT, thank you both for the links and the helpful tips. I have been busy tackling other projects around the place but I plan to dig into the tractor here shortly , hopefully before the sun goes down. I appreciate you both!!
 

I was able to get the ball nut out of mine without removing the sector shafts. The trick was to turn the steering wheel in the direction that moves the ball nut towards the end of the shaft (I can't remember if that was clockwise or counterclockwise now...but you can tell easily by spinning your own).

Once the ball nut is all of the way down to the end of the shaft, you can tip the shaft back slightly and the ball nut will come right up out of there.

You'll need to be able to do this same trick in reverse if you need to put the ball nut and shaft in and out a few times in order to get the shimming right when you put it back together.
 

Thanks a lot for the tips, lastcowboy. I'll try to do that as I haven't been able to get working on it since I've last reported here. The shimming part still has me kind of hesitant too, not sure what I'll be looking to do exactly. I vaguely understand but I need to do some more reading on that part before I comprehend fully. I figured you guys could probably get the shaft out without taking the sectors out but I figured it would be my luck to have to take out sectors. I probably need to do it anyway to clean it out, I'm just hesitant to dig into it too much. That's probably why it's still out there at the same stage it has for 2 day haha.


Thank you very much for the continued help!! Wish you all knew how much it has helped me and how much I appreciate it!!
 

Another quick question, I'm hoping somebody can please help me.

I disconnected the drag link from the pitman arm. Do I HAVE to disconnect the pitman from the sectors?

Or can I just unbolt the steering box and remove it and work on it like that?

Thanks in advance you tractor gurus!
 
(reply to post at 06:31:31 08/04/15)

Dat's a good question I never thought to short cut it that way and probably never will... I see no reason why you can not haft arse it and leave'em on... Good luck...

I am already tooled up for it so would pop'em off...

Gofer it...
 

lol Cool, thanks alot for the reply and advice, Hobo! I'll give it a go in the morning. I might give them a whack a few times and see if I can get them off but I don't want to loose where the gears are placed at. I wouldn't know how to get it back in line. Y'all are a blessing, thank you very much!!
 
Good morning to everybody. I'm taking off the steering box here in a few minutes and I'm not ready to order the parts needed.

Can somebody please point me in the direction of the parts needed. I know I need 2, maybe 3 bearings and races and some seals as well. I want to get the right parts the first time so if you wouldn't mind helping me locate the correct parts I would really appreciate it.

Thank you all for your help!
 
And there was some white plastic thing in there too. Not sure if I need to replace that or if I'd be doing that by replacing the 2/3? bearing/races?

Thank you
 

I think I may need a few other parts, I'm not sure yet but I don't remember taking a spring off before the top bearing on the steering shaft. Also don't know if I have a "column seal" or not either. There might be a few parts that I need to order besides bearings/races/seals. Does that sound possible? I'm trying to do this the right way myself with very limited experience or info but happy and eager to learn. If anybody is motivated by money I can send a donation to somebody willing to help me through this as best as they can. I appreciate the help I've received thus far!
 
(quoted from post at 09:25:51 08/04/15)
I think I may need a few other parts, I'm not sure yet but I don't remember taking a spring off before the top bearing on the steering shaft. Also don't know if I have a "column seal" or not either. There might be a few parts that I need to order besides bearings/races/seals. Does that sound possible? I'm trying to do this the right way myself with very limited experience or info but happy and eager to learn. If anybody is motivated by money I can send a donation to somebody willing to help me through this as best as they can. I appreciate the help I've received thus far!
t's hard to say what you need if I don't know what you'r doing. If you'r half arsin it and not pullin the sector shafts you wont need any seals and you'r not going to get the bottom race out. In this case you would need 2 thrust bearings a race the column bearing and spring. The spring keeps the bearing centered their's no seal in column just a felt dust cover. The white plastic you found was part of a cheap plastic bearing they sell that always come apart.
 
(quoted from post at 09:10:48 08/04/15)
(quoted from post at 09:25:51 08/04/15)
I think I may need a few other parts, I'm not sure yet but I don't remember taking a spring off before the top bearing on the steering shaft. Also don't know if I have a "column seal" or not either. There might be a few parts that I need to order besides bearings/races/seals. Does that sound possible? I'm trying to do this the right way myself with very limited experience or info but happy and eager to learn. If anybody is motivated by money I can send a donation to somebody willing to help me through this as best as they can. I appreciate the help I've received thus far!
t's hard to say what you need if I don't know what you'r doing. If you'r half arsin it and not pullin the sector shafts you wont need any seals and you'r not going to get the bottom race out. In this case you would need 2 thrust bearings a race the column bearing and spring. The spring keeps the bearing centered their's no seal in column just a felt dust cover. The white plastic you found was part of a cheap plastic bearing they sell that always come apart.


Thank you very much for the informative break down. I will order those parts according to how you just described that to me. I can and will take the sector shafts out if I need to do that to replace the seals as it was leaking originally. Is the bottom bearing you're speaking about the one that sit's in the indentation at the bottom of the housing? Or there's another one down there? That one came out when I turned the housing upside down and cleaned it out.

Thanks alot for the response, carlntexas!
 
The one that fell out is the only one down there most of the time the race at the bottom is still good. If you don't have the FO-4 Manuel with parts picture you need to get one.
 
(quoted from post at 13:34:51 08/04/15) The one that fell out is the only one down there most of the time the race at the bottom is still good. If you don't have the FO-4 Manuel with parts picture you need to get one.

I have one but for somebody that isn't a mechanic and has never owned anything similar to a tractor it's not the easiest to understand at first. Plus from my reading here on this wonderful site I've read that some of the parts aren't a big deal if you don't have them. For example I don't have the "bearing retainer eyelet" or the "bearing retainer". All I have is the shaft and nutball and the steering box. Everything is else broken.

So, as I'm looking at the F0 4 pic on page 23 I'm wondering if I have to find and order every single little part that's listed on there? That's what has me confused the most is all of the parts that wasn't in mine and if I need to get them. Also, the manual is very vague. Once I complete a task things make a lot more sense but are very confusing before I actually complete the task. I wish the manual went into more detail but I guess for $30 what did I expect lol.

I'll call YT 800 and see if they can tell me exactly what parts might be needed. By the picture on F0 4 page 23 it doesn't look like the bearings are the same ones in the box but the ones I was asking about a couple pages back seem to be the same bearings so I'm not sure exactly which ones I need.

Thanks carlntexas
 

The bearing retainer and bearing retainer eyelet hold the bottom thrust bearing in place while you're putting the shaft/ballnut/bearing into the gearbox.

Experienced people can put a dab of axle grease on the end of the shaft and get the bearing to stick to it.

I tried that trick and ended up having to fish the bearing back out of the gear box each time that I was test fitting the shims. The third time, the bearing misaligned and was crushed. It cost me a day and a new bearing.

If you're ordering parts and already have to wait for them, and if you are doing this for the first time, it's my humble opinion that the retainer and the eyelet are cheap insurance that your reassembly will go well.
 

I just got off the phone with a nice gentlemen from YT and I ordered the bearing and race set (2 bearings/2 races) and 2 o ring seals for the sector shafts and a steering bearing spring. He said that's all I"ll need. He said there's only 2 bearings , there's not a "column bearing assy" like the F0 4 says there is. I'm hoping that's all I need. The F0 4 picture shows a bunch of little parts I don't have.


Thanks to everybody who helped me out. I really do appreciate it!
 
(quoted from post at 14:43:20 08/04/15)
The bearing retainer and bearing retainer eyelet hold the bottom thrust bearing in place while you're putting the shaft/ballnut/bearing into the gearbox.

Experienced people can put a dab of axle grease on the end of the shaft and get the bearing to stick to it.

I tried that trick and ended up having to fish the bearing back out of the gear box each time that I was test fitting the shims. The third time, the bearing misaligned and was crushed. It cost me a day and a new bearing.

If you're ordering parts and already have to wait for them, and if you are doing this for the first time, it's my humble opinion that the retainer and the eyelet are cheap insurance that your reassembly will go well.

I'm back on the phone waiting for them now that you said that, lastcowboy. Thanks for the advice.


Is the 2 bearings the only ones I need or do I need a steering shaft bearing on the top side of the tube and cover?

The guy at YT said I only needed the two but carlntexas said I needed 3.
 

I just added "column bearing assy" and the "bearing retainer", he said he didn't know what the eyelet was. I gave him a part number I quickly googled (not certain it was correct) and he couldn't find anything. Maybe the eyelet was in the oil that I dumped out? I'll go look through the oil but I doubt it.
 
(quoted from post at 16:54:36 08/04/15)
I just got off the phone with a nice gentlemen from YT and I ordered the bearing and race set (2 bearings/2 races) and 2 o ring seals for the sector shafts and a steering bearing spring. He said that's all I"ll need. He said there's only 2 bearings , there's not a "column bearing assy" like the F0 4 says there is. I'm hoping that's all I need. The F0 4 picture shows a bunch of little parts I don't have.


Thanks to everybody who helped me out. I really do appreciate it!
OL why do you need a steering bearing spring if there's no bearing in the column. There is a bearing in the column I hope he knows that and you just misunderstood him.
 
(quoted from post at 15:30:49 08/04/15)
(quoted from post at 16:54:36 08/04/15)
I just got off the phone with a nice gentlemen from YT and I ordered the bearing and race set (2 bearings/2 races) and 2 o ring seals for the sector shafts and a steering bearing spring. He said that's all I"ll need. He said there's only 2 bearings , there's not a "column bearing assy" like the F0 4 says there is. I'm hoping that's all I need. The F0 4 picture shows a bunch of little parts I don't have.


Thanks to everybody who helped me out. I really do appreciate it!
OL why do you need a steering bearing spring if there's no bearing in the column. There is a bearing in the column I hope he knows that and you just misunderstood him.

Nope, I made for certain three separate times that he was saying that I only needed the two. I ordered that bearing too. I know you are the one who works on them and he just sits behind a computer but I figured he SHOULD know what parts go into the tractor he's selling parts for. I knew something wasn't right and found the part and added it to my order. I appreciate everybody's help! We need to get together so I can throw a party for the nice folks on here.
 
I hope that this helps...sometimes a sketch is more clear than a picture, because the extraneous info is left out. If your steering is like the one that I just did, there are three bearings: an upper and lower thrust bearing that sandwich the ball nut on the worm gear and a steering column bearing up near the top of the steering column just under the steering wheel. Also under the steering wheel are a spring and a sort of felt/fiber washer-grommet thingy...that I think is there to prevent dust from getting into the steering column.


25490.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 07:34:52 08/05/15) I hope that this helps...sometimes a sketch is more clear than a picture, because the extraneous info is left out. If your steering is like the one that I just did, there are three bearings: an upper and lower thrust bearing that sandwich the ball nut on the worm gear and a steering column bearing up near the top of the steering column just under the steering wheel. Also under the steering wheel are a spring and a sort of felt/fiber washer-grommet thingy...that I think is there to prevent dust from getting into the steering column.


25490.jpg

Thank you very much, lastcowboy for the drawing, it is larger and better to understand than the image in the F0 4 manual. I thank you sincerely. Not a bad artist at all either, by the way, mine would have looked terrible. That's actually pretty good.

I won't have the eyelet and I don't believe I have the dust cover. I'm assuming I SHOULD still be ok without those things but it would probably be better/easier if I did have them.
 

In my case, the eyelet went through the hole in the center of the retainer and was a friction fit in a hole in the end of the shaft. It held the retainer in place.

Without the eyelet, if you still want to use the retainer, I've seen some people recommending cleaning the end of the shaft really well and gluing the retainer in place with a dab of silicone or something similar and then letting it rest long enough to cure before trying to put the shaft back into the gearbox.

There are many ways to skin the cat. The whole trick is to keep that lower thrust bearing in place and aligned during assembly.
 
(quoted from post at 09:46:40 08/05/15)
(quoted from post at 07:34:52 08/05/15) I hope that this helps...sometimes a sketch is more clear than a picture, because the extraneous info is left out. If your steering is like the one that I just did, there are three bearings: an upper and lower thrust bearing that sandwich the ball nut on the worm gear and a steering column bearing up near the top of the steering column just under the steering wheel. Also under the steering wheel are a spring and a sort of felt/fiber washer-grommet thingy...that I think is there to prevent dust from getting into the steering column.


25490.jpg

Thank you very much, lastcowboy for the drawing, it is larger and better to understand than the image in the F0 4 manual. I thank you sincerely. Not a bad artist at all either, by the way, mine would have looked terrible. That's actually pretty good.

I won't have the eyelet and I don't believe I have the dust cover. I'm assuming I SHOULD still be ok without those things but it would probably be better/easier if I did have them.
My eyelet was missing so I made something out of a plastic plug I had in my junk drawer. It doesn't take much to keep the retainer on it's just to keep the bearing in place to get it in the box.
 
(quoted from post at 08:17:08 08/05/15)
In my case, the eyelet went through the hole in the center of the retainer and was a friction fit in a hole in the end of the shaft. It held the retainer in place.

Without the eyelet, if you still want to use the retainer, I've seen some people recommending cleaning the end of the shaft really well and gluing the retainer in place with a dab of silicone or something similar and then letting it rest long enough to cure before trying to put the shaft back into the gearbox.

There are many ways to skin the cat. The whole trick is to keep that lower thrust bearing in place and aligned during assembly.

Alright, that makes sense a lot more now. I will try the clean and silicone trick and see if I can get that to work for me. I tried ordering the eyelet but the guy said they didn't have it. I'm glad you all are nice folks and don't mind helping out a newbie. Things on this tractor really is simple and it makes sense to me after I see how things go together or operate but until that point it's confusing to me. I appreciate you all helping me understand and visualize this.
 

I got the parts in the mail today and paid my mechanic to put the steering box together.

I would not have been able to get any of my work done if it wasn't for you guys who responded to this thread. I thank you all very much!


I have a another question. I have 2 shims that was on this when I took the box off and somebody used 2 pieces of a saw zaw blade as a shim as well. The mechanic told me that was my original leak problem and I need a couple more 8N shims to complete this job so right now it's still at a stand still.


Do I have to have the original 8N shims or is there some other shims I can use?

Thank you
 

On top of the shim question, I've now realized the mechanic used #2 valvoline grease to pack the bearings. What should I do? Leave it as is or have them cleaned and repacked? Should I just add JD cornhead grease to the box?


I appreciate the help!
 
(quoted from post at 20:44:29 08/07/15)
Or are the shims available anywhere like TSC? Or order online or dealer only?

Thank you
You can get shims on this site or other parts sites don't know about tractor supply or you could cut some out of a cereal box.Leave the grease on bearings and fill box with corn head grease.
 
Thank you VERY much for the response, carlntexas! I bought JD's grease while I was just out today and I will fill the box up when it get's put back on the tractor.

My mechanic says his first job was working on tractors so he claims he knows a lot about them but he told me to get real shims and I know you can use other stuff because you have told me so and I know you all know your tractors real good, I just need to try to convince him to use something else like a cereal box so I don't have to wait on the shims to come in the mail.

I watched him assemble the box and having seen it done I know I could do the next one. I would rather let him finish and watch him with the shims so I don't mess something up doing it myself as I have no clue what I'd be looking for when "shimming" it.

Thank you for the response, I appreciate it.
 
(quoted from post at 11:07:02 08/08/15) Thank you VERY much for the response, carlntexas! I bought JD's grease while I was just out today and I will fill the box up when it get's put back on the tractor.

My mechanic says his first job was working on tractors so he claims he knows a lot about them but he told me to get real shims and I know you can use other stuff because you have told me so and I know you all know your tractors real good, I just need to try to convince him to use something else like a cereal box so I don't have to wait on the shims to come in the mail.

I watched him assemble the box and having seen it done I know I could do the next one. I would rather let him finish and watch him with the shims so I don't mess something up doing it myself as I have no clue what I'd be looking for when "shimming" it.

Thank you for the response, I appreciate it.



Shimming: If you want to know what to look for with shimming, start with no shims, make sure that your steering column is all assembled with all three bearings (two thrust, one column) the spring under the steering wheel and the steering wheel itself all assembled and ready to go. I, personally turned the pitman arms in the "full right" position; which is the position that they would be in when the tractor's front tires would be turned all of the way to the right. Before putting in your steering column, turn the steering wheel so that the ball nut threads up to a position not quite touching the upper thrust bearing. With the pitman arms and ball nut in that position, it will be the easiest to get your steering column into the gear box.

Put your column in by tipping it back slightly, while holding the steering wheel from turning until all of the ball nut teeth mesh with the sector shaft gear. Then let go of the steering wheel and tip the column forward a little while putting it into the box... being careful to get the end bearing seated in the bottom.

Install the bolts (just a little more than finger tight) into the flange that holds the steering column onto the gearbox to hold things in place.

If you can grab the steering wheel and pull up and down on it...or if it seems to thread up and down when you turn it....BE CAREFUL! You may not have properly seated the bottom thrust bearing. If you turn the steering wheel much under these conditions, you'll probably mash that nice, new thrust bearing that you put on!

Look for two things...is the flange not sitting flush on the gearbox? If you (gently)turn the steering wheel, does it feel like it turns a little before it moves the sector shaft gears? If one or both of those things are true...then measure your gap and add enough shims to equal the gap.

Try the process again.

Repeat until the steering wheel cannot be pulled up and down when the flange mounting bolts are tightened and you feel it engage with the sector gears instantly when you turn it.

In general, the more new parts you put in, the fewer shims you need. If you put on new thrust bearings, it should take maybe just a little less shimming. If you also replaced the upper and lower thrust bearing races along with the bearings, then you may find that it needs quite a bit less shimming than it previously had.

Shims can be cut from any sheet metal material. I would avoid cereal boxes and felt gasket materials, as they will compress over time. The shims are weight bearing surfaces. (Think about how much pressure they hold as you steer the tractor to the right and the ball nut is pulling the sector shaft gear upwards.)

I know it's wordy...but I hope it helps.
 

About leaks and lubrication. Corn head grease is recommended by many here. It's what I used on mine.

Be warned...if you have a newer (crappy) grease gun like mine (they don't make 'em like they used to) the stuff will squeeze out of the gun, it will ooze from the zerk. It's so damn thin! I lucked out, because, I found that I could unscrew the tip from my grease gun hose...and the threads on the end of the hose would engage one or two threads with the hole for the plug in the top of the gear box.

I threaded the hose (remember...just a thread or two) straight into the plug hole and proceeded to load that sucker with cornhead grease until a little oozed out of the weephole about half way up the column.

That should do it :)

I'm also including a picture...many people blame seals or shims for leaking. Remember, the gear box is cast iron. They get old, they get abused from people pounding on sector shafts to rebuild them. On mine, I found an actual crack in the gearbox where the thin side wall meets the bottom plate. Look for cracks in the box! If you can braze...seal it up. I can't braze, so I ground down to bare metal and JB welded the whole crack. See crack after cleaning/grinding in the photo!

25788.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 07:53:20 08/10/15)
About leaks and lubrication. Corn head grease is recommended by many here. It's what I used on mine.

Be warned...if you have a newer (crappy) grease gun like mine (they don't make 'em like they used to) the stuff will squeeze out of the gun, it will ooze from the zerk. It's so damn thin! I lucked out, because, I found that I could unscrew the tip from my grease gun hose...and the threads on the end of the hose would engage one or two threads with the hole for the plug in the top of the gear box.

I threaded the hose (remember...just a thread or two) straight into the plug hole and proceeded to load that sucker with cornhead grease until a little oozed out of the weephole about half way up the column.

That should do it :)

I'm also including a picture...many people blame seals or shims for leaking. Remember, the gear box is cast iron. They get old, they get abused from people pounding on sector shafts to rebuild them. On mine, I found an actual crack in the gearbox where the thin side wall meets the bottom plate. Look for cracks in the box! If you can braze...seal it up. I can't braze, so I ground down to bare metal and JB welded the whole crack. See crack after cleaning/grinding in the photo!

25788.jpg

lastcowboy, those two last posts hit the nail on the head for me. I had a good idea of what I was needing to do from the response I got on a recently started thread I made yesterday but as you were explaining in your post above the one I just quoted I was visualizing it as I was reading. I feel very confident I will be able to get this done. All thanks to the help of you fine folks here. I really appreciate those that helped and thank you again, lastcowboy, for helping me visualize what I needed to do. I will report back with good (hopefully) or "other" news lol.


Thank you!!
 



I think I'm supposed to hammer/socket this steering wheel bearing down into the tube. I can't get the steering wheel on unless I do but I don't want to mess anything up and wait on new parts. Can anybody verify for me please that I'm supposed to do that? On the N tractor club site it says to carefully drive it into the tube but I did real quick and it didn't want to go in there. I want to make sure I can give it a good whack and it'll be fine to do so. Thank you.
 
The replacement shims are made of some sort of plastic.
I don't see any reason why they can not be used as well as a good gasket paper (Not a corn flake box)
 

I have some sheet metal that I was going to cut into shims as was suggested to me on here but I haven't even got that far yet. I'm trying to get the steering wheel on so I can see how it feels with no shims first and I can't get the steering wheel shaft bearing seated correctly. It is just sitting on top of the tube and I'm reading it's supposed to go into the tube. But when I hit it with a socket and hammer it doesn't go in, just start to dent up the bearing. I don't want to mess this bearing or anything else up. Wish the da*n mechanic would show up when he says he will (said he was coming yesterday, still not here) I'd pay him to get it back on the tractor as I need this thing working.

I appreciate you taking the time to help me!
 
(quoted from post at 02:29:19 08/11/15)


I think I'm supposed to hammer/socket this steering wheel bearing down into the tube. I can't get the steering wheel on unless I do but I don't want to mess anything up and wait on new parts. Can anybody verify for me please that I'm supposed to do that? On the N tractor club site it says to carefully drive it into the tube but I did real quick and it didn't want to go in there. I want to make sure I can give it a good whack and it'll be fine to do so. Thank you.

I dunno about using a socket maybe a 2X4 are a flat piece of steel... Yes it is a interference fit...
 

Thanks for the reply and advice, Hobo. I tried with a socket like n tractor club said and then I tried your method with wood and steel and neither worked for me. The last attempt with the socket broke the bearing. Do I NEED the top shaft bearing? If so, I'll have to order another one.
 
(quoted from post at 18:35:31 08/10/15)
You don't need it to set the box up but I would not leave it out upon the final assy...

Ok, I'll order another one. I'll have to have somebody show me how to do it before I try to do it again. I sincerely appreciate the response and advice, Hobo! Have a good evening, sir.
 
(quoted from post at 18:48:00 08/10/15)
(quoted from post at 18:35:31 08/10/15)
You don't need it to set the box up but I would not leave it out upon the final assy...

Ok, I'll order another one. I'll have to have somebody show me how to do it before I try to do it again. I sincerely appreciate the response and advice, Hobo! Have a good evening, sir.

The bearing in the top of the column shouldn't be THAT hard to put in. When you get the next one, maybe check a couple of things:

-Check the top of your column for roundness. In the one that I just did, the bearing was so worn, that it was tilted in the column and the tube itself was a little out of shape at the end. Ensure that there are no dents, dings or burrs in the end of the column... gently file and/or sand away anything that would get in the way of a clean installation.

-Look at the new bearing. I'm trying to remember if mine had a lip on it...Maybe someone else can chime in here...I'm trying to remember if the bearing only installed so far until its lip caught on the end of the column, sort of like a cap.

-Lube the end of the column and the bearing a little bit before installation. Lubrication is much more gentle than pounding or pressing. This bearing doesn't spin at high speed...so there's no danger of it burning up by spinning the race...which is why some bearing races are recommended to always be pressed in dry.
 
(quoted from post at 19:55:05 08/11/15)
(quoted from post at 18:48:00 08/10/15)
(quoted from post at 18:35:31 08/10/15)
You don't need it to set the box up but I would not leave it out upon the final assy...

Ok, I'll order another one. I'll have to have somebody show me how to do it before I try to do it again. I sincerely appreciate the response and advice, Hobo! Have a good evening, sir.

The bearing in the top of the column shouldn't be THAT hard to put in. When you get the next one, maybe check a couple of things:

-Check the top of your column for roundness. In the one that I just did, the bearing was so worn, that it was tilted in the column and the tube itself was a little out of shape at the end. Ensure that there are no dents, dings or burrs in the end of the column... gently file and/or sand away anything that would get in the way of a clean installation.

-Look at the new bearing. I'm trying to remember if mine had a lip on it...Maybe someone else can chime in here...I'm trying to remember if the bearing only installed so far until its lip caught on the end of the column, sort of like a cap.

-Lube the end of the column and the bearing a little bit before installation. Lubrication is much more gentle than pounding or pressing. This bearing doesn't spin at high speed...so there's no danger of it burning up by spinning the race...which is why some bearing races are recommended to always be pressed in dry.

And make sure you have all the old one out :wink:
 

lastcowboy and Hobo, thank you both very much for the response. The old one is for sure out lol. I will make sure to check the inside of the tube like you suggested, lastcowboy. I'll post a pic of the tube here soon, I believe it to be in good condition.

Thanks to you both. I'll post back soon.
 

lastcowboy, on this next bearing install I will likely try to get a hold of my mechanic and ask that he install this one so I don't have to buy a 3rd bearing. But if I have to do it myself I will make sure I lubricate it more than I did this time. I lubed it but maybe I should have done more. The tube appears to be in good condition and in a perfect circle shape. And nothing seems to be keeping it from going in on the inside either.

Not sure if pics would help at all but this is my current situation. The box had 2 shims and 2 pieces of a saw zaw blade that they were obviously using as shims also. The mechanic who put my box back together said I needed real shims and he couldn't use the blades to reassemble. The 2 pieces of sheet metal I made yesterday as some potential shims that might be needed. The broken bearing in the pic is the one I broke.

After being advised here that I should start with the shaft mounted to the box without any shims at first, I did that yesterday and the rear side of the shaft sits almost flush with the box but there is a gap at the front on the shaft and box. I figured maybe that is where the saw zaw blades were being used at so I'm thinking the front of the box may need shims and not the rear side. I plan to try to use the sheet metal shims I made instead of the saw zaw blades when it's reinstalled.

Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it! Here are the pics.



 
Your old bearing cup is still in column go in from the bottom with something and knock it out.

Why not order some shims when you order the column bearing the one you made ain't gonna get the job. :lol:
 
(quoted from post at 12:39:04 08/11/15) Your old bearing cup is still in column go in from the bottom with something and knock it out.

Why not order some shims when you order the column bearing the one you made ain't gonna get the job. :lol:

LOL! Now my feelings are hurt haha! I knew my shims weren't the best but I figured they'd work. I wish I would have thought about ordering those with the bearing but I didn't. I ordered the bearing last night off of ebay because it was $13 cheaper than ordering from here. If I would have thought my shims weren't going to work then I would have ordered those and the bearing from here.

Now that you tell me to knock out the old bearing cup I feel like a dips***. I thought maybe the tube was supposed to look like that but with you saying that's still in there, it looks obvious to me that something is in there. Without me knowing better I thought that was normal.

Thank you very much for the response and advising me that I'm a dips*** lol.

Do you think I might get better results with home made shims out of other material? I'll give that a shot.

I appreciate you all helping me! As you can see I need all the help I can get haha.
 


I want to thank you all for being kind and helpful with a obviously tractor greenhorn. I knocked the cup of the bearing out as instructed to do by carlntexas and it came right out. I'm going to hopefully get some home made shims to work while I wait for the bearing to show up. If I have to wait for some shims after all of this it'll be frustrating but not the end of the world.


I appreciate everybody who has helped me!
 
TSC has a roll of thin gasket that works good for shims. Hobo doesn't like it but I use Honey Nut Cheerios box. :) What ever you make it out of it needs to be in one piece not cut in too like yours they have to keep the oil or grease in box.

It would be a lot easier to set bearing preload if you took the sector shafts out. I noticed you're missin a lock nut on left sector adjusting screw.
 
(quoted from post at 15:44:49 08/11/15) TSC has a roll of thin gasket that works good for shims. Hobo doesn't like it but I use Honey Nut Cheerios box. :) What ever you make it out of it needs to be in one piece not cut in too like yours they have to keep the oil or grease in box.

It would be a lot easier to set bearing preload if you took the sector shafts out. I noticed you're missin a lock nut on left sector adjusting screw.

Ok, I'll look into the gasket if I don't use a cereal box, I know we have one of those around here. I wondered about the split shim I had, it broke when I was trying to make it. I am missing a lock nut on it and it was like that when I bought it. I have a nut I bought from TSC but it didn't seem to fit when I tried it before the steering messed up. Now the box is off of the tractor I plan to try it again before I put it back on the tractor.

I thought maybe I'd have to take the shafts back out to get this together right. I paid the mechanic to put it together for me because I didn't want to mess it up doing it the first time. Hopefully I can get it all together myself this time. If he spoke english or I spoke spanish our relationship wouldn't be so weird but that's the situation I'm stuck with until I meet others in the area.

I'm going to start cutting some cereal box shims and see if I can get the tube mounted properly tonight.

I can't thank you enough, I really appreciate it!
 
(quoted from post at 18:21:36 08/11/15)
Most all auto parts stores stock gasket paper :shock:
Google gasket material.

Its a damm steering box :twisted: goferit...

Its good enuff for a axle shim are any other place on you tractor that are part of the structure frame.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-gasket-materials-3157/5189950-P :twisted:

lol Thanks for the helpful advice/link and the laugh, Hobo. I have to run into town tomorrow so I will grab some from a parts store while I'm there. It's a decent little trip to any stores so I try to make due with what I have unless I'm going into town.
 
(quoted from post at 18:21:36 08/11/15)
Most all auto parts stores stock gasket paper :shock:
Google gasket material.

Its a damm steering box :twisted: goferit...

Its good enuff for a axle shim are any other place on you tractor that are part of the structure frame.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-gasket-materials-3157/5189950-P :twisted:

lol Thanks for the helpful advice/link and the laugh, Hobo. I have to run into town tomorrow so I will grab some from a parts store while I'm there. It's a decent little trip to any stores so I try to make due with what I have unless I'm going into town.
 
Alright, I've made some progress on this situation and I owe all of you that helped me a big thank you. I could NOT have done it without your help.

I have the box on the tractor and almost everything hooked back up but I still haven't filled the box with corn head grease. I do not know how to make the special fittings, even though I bought some fittings from TSC, I just don't know how to drill and tap. And I don't think I have the stuff to do it.

I'm going to try to squeeze some grease in through the "fill hole" on the right side without a fitting but that may/may not work so I'm wondering if I can fill it through the top of the steering wheel shaft tube? Wouldn't it be a good idea to do that a little at least to get the top bearing nice and greased?

Also I noticed my steering link on the right side has A LOT of play in it. Is that just a boot that normally needs replaced if that happens?


I sincerely appreciate everyone's help! Mechanic stood me up as usual and I had to do the job and without your help I would not have had a clue what to do. Thank you.
 
Look'N at you pix the fill plug is on the left side to service it after its been assembled you will need to drill a hole in the bracket that covers it...
https://photos.yesterdaystractors.c...arameter=hobo,nc&w=pieces&cc=0&s=

You can buy a grease fitting to replace the plug are get a nipple and bushing to extend it out past the bracket...

I would assy the box once you know it assy correctly remove the upper tube and fill it with grease... If it needs more you can pump in in thru the grease fitting...

If tour tie rod is worn out out need to replace it...
 

I thought maybe I was going to have the N rolling tonight but as my luck goes, it won't start now I have everything back together. When I took the hood off a couple of the wires come off of the distributor and I put them back where I thought they went. I'm thinking that might be the cause for it not starting. The #1 wire was not on the #1 spot on the distributor so I put it on the #1 spot on the dist. and reconfigured how I "think" they're supposed to go but without it starting I'm doubting myself lol. Looks like it'll be a ongoing frustration over here.
 
(quoted from post at 21:06:02 08/17/15)
I thought maybe I was going to have the N rolling tonight but as my luck goes, it won't start now I have everything back together. When I took the hood off a couple of the wires come off of the distributor and I put them back where I thought they went. I'm thinking that might be the cause for it not starting. The #1 wire was not on the #1 spot on the distributor so I put it on the #1 spot on the dist. and reconfigured how I "think" they're supposed to go but without it starting I'm doubting myself lol. Looks like it'll be a ongoing frustration over here.
ou said, " a couple wires came off". I hope you were savvy enough to leave the other couple where they were! No, you moved those too, didn't you? :roll:
 
(quoted from post at 20:19:46 08/17/15)
(quoted from post at 21:06:02 08/17/15)
I thought maybe I was going to have the N rolling tonight but as my luck goes, it won't start now I have everything back together. When I took the hood off a couple of the wires come off of the distributor and I put them back where I thought they went. I'm thinking that might be the cause for it not starting. The #1 wire was not on the #1 spot on the distributor so I put it on the #1 spot on the dist. and reconfigured how I "think" they're supposed to go but without it starting I'm doubting myself lol. Looks like it'll be a ongoing frustration over here.
ou said, " a couple wires came off". I hope you were savvy enough to leave the other couple where they were! No, you moved those too, didn't you? :roll:

LOL! At first, yes I did leave them there. When I put the tractor back together and it wouldn't start I looked at the order the wires were in on the distributor and the #1 wire on the dist. was not going to the #1 cylinder. There was only 1 of the 4 that was on the "correct" spot on the dist. so I figured I should put them in the order they were supposed to go in.

1243 CCW is how I put them and the #1 on the coil is positioned almost upside down at about the 7 o clock position.

Sometimes when I try to start it it will just turn over but never crank. Sometimes I get a winding sounds and there's been a time or two that it's made a backfiring type on the right side, I believe by the muffler.


lol Be easy on me JMOR, I know I should have left them in their place but I figured I should install them in the correct order.

You would have left them in the "incorrect" order then?
 
(quoted from post at 23:29:53 08/17/15)
(quoted from post at 20:19:46 08/17/15)
(quoted from post at 21:06:02 08/17/15)
I thought maybe I was going to have the N rolling tonight but as my luck goes, it won't start now I have everything back together. When I took the hood off a couple of the wires come off of the distributor and I put them back where I thought they went. I'm thinking that might be the cause for it not starting. The #1 wire was not on the #1 spot on the distributor so I put it on the #1 spot on the dist. and reconfigured how I "think" they're supposed to go but without it starting I'm doubting myself lol. Looks like it'll be a ongoing frustration over here.
ou said, " a couple wires came off". I hope you were savvy enough to leave the other couple where they were! No, you moved those too, didn't you? :roll:

LOL! At first, yes I did leave them there. When I put the tractor back together and it wouldn't start I looked at the order the wires were in on the distributor and the #1 wire on the dist. was not going to the #1 cylinder. There was only 1 of the 4 that was on the "correct" spot on the dist. so I figured I should put them in the order they were supposed to go in.

1243 CCW is how I put them and the #1 on the coil is positioned almost upside down at about the 7 o clock position.

Sometimes when I try to start it it will just turn over but never crank. Sometimes I get a winding sounds and there's been a time or two that it's made a backfiring type on the right side, I believe by the muffler.


lol Be easy on me JMOR, I know I should have left them in their place but I figured I should install them in the correct order.

You would have left them in the "incorrect" order then?
f it was running before you knocked the two out, then the two remaining were NOT incorrect, so I would have left well enough alone & replaced only the two that were knocked out....only two opportunities now & and a 50/50 chance of being correct even if you didn't know what you were doing. If still not right, then swap only those two and you are in business! Once all "messed with", then you have many more opportunities to get them back wrong.
 
(quoted from post at 08:40:27 08/18/15)
(quoted from post at 23:29:53 08/17/15)
(quoted from post at 20:19:46 08/17/15)
(quoted from post at 21:06:02 08/17/15)
I thought maybe I was going to have the N rolling tonight but as my luck goes, it won't start now I have everything back together. When I took the hood off a couple of the wires come off of the distributor and I put them back where I thought they went. I'm thinking that might be the cause for it not starting. The #1 wire was not on the #1 spot on the distributor so I put it on the #1 spot on the dist. and reconfigured how I "think" they're supposed to go but without it starting I'm doubting myself lol. Looks like it'll be a ongoing frustration over here.
ou said, " a couple wires came off". I hope you were savvy enough to leave the other couple where they were! No, you moved those too, didn't you? :roll:

LOL! At first, yes I did leave them there. When I put the tractor back together and it wouldn't start I looked at the order the wires were in on the distributor and the #1 wire on the dist. was not going to the #1 cylinder. There was only 1 of the 4 that was on the "correct" spot on the dist. so I figured I should put them in the order they were supposed to go in.

1243 CCW is how I put them and the #1 on the coil is positioned almost upside down at about the 7 o clock position.

Sometimes when I try to start it it will just turn over but never crank. Sometimes I get a winding sounds and there's been a time or two that it's made a backfiring type on the right side, I believe by the muffler.


lol Be easy on me JMOR, I know I should have left them in their place but I figured I should install them in the correct order.

You would have left them in the "incorrect" order then?
f it was running before you knocked the two out, then the two remaining were NOT incorrect, so I would have left well enough alone & replaced only the two that were knocked out....only two opportunities now & and a 50/50 chance of being correct even if you didn't know what you were doing. If still not right, then swap only those two and you are in business! Once all "messed with", then you have many more opportunities to get them back wrong.

JMOR, I appreciate your response and expertise. Figuring not many would look at this thread anymore I started a new one this morning about firing order and somebody replied and explained that I can take out plug 1 and when the air blows my finger away from the hole, where the rotor is pointing is where plug one should go. I have done that and was able to get the tractor started pulling the choke but it was running rough and ended up dying on me when I was moving it to a more shaded part of the yard. I didn't try to start it back up because I was fine with where it was located. Now I have to figure out why it's running rough. I appreciate your help, JMOR. You fine gentlemen on this forum are life savers, literally. Thank you, sir.
 
(quoted from post at 11:57:03 08/18/15)
(quoted from post at 08:40:27 08/18/15)
(quoted from post at 23:29:53 08/17/15)
(quoted from post at 20:19:46 08/17/15)
(quoted from post at 21:06:02 08/17/15)
I thought maybe I was going to have the N rolling tonight but as my luck goes, it won't start now I have everything back together. When I took the hood off a couple of the wires come off of the distributor and I put them back where I thought they went. I'm thinking that might be the cause for it not starting. The #1 wire was not on the #1 spot on the distributor so I put it on the #1 spot on the dist. and reconfigured how I "think" they're supposed to go but without it starting I'm doubting myself lol. Looks like it'll be a ongoing frustration over here.
ou said, " a couple wires came off". I hope you were savvy enough to leave the other couple where they were! No, you moved those too, didn't you? :roll:

LOL! At first, yes I did leave them there. When I put the tractor back together and it wouldn't start I looked at the order the wires were in on the distributor and the #1 wire on the dist. was not going to the #1 cylinder. There was only 1 of the 4 that was on the "correct" spot on the dist. so I figured I should put them in the order they were supposed to go in.

1243 CCW is how I put them and the #1 on the coil is positioned almost upside down at about the 7 o clock position.

Sometimes when I try to start it it will just turn over but never crank. Sometimes I get a winding sounds and there's been a time or two that it's made a backfiring type on the right side, I believe by the muffler.


lol Be easy on me JMOR, I know I should have left them in their place but I figured I should install them in the correct order.

You would have left them in the "incorrect" order then?
f it was running before you knocked the two out, then the two remaining were NOT incorrect, so I would have left well enough alone & replaced only the two that were knocked out....only two opportunities now & and a 50/50 chance of being correct even if you didn't know what you were doing. If still not right, then swap only those two and you are in business! Once all "messed with", then you have many more opportunities to get them back wrong.

JMOR, I appreciate your response and expertise. Figuring not many would look at this thread anymore I started a new one this morning about firing order and somebody replied and explained that I can take out plug 1 and when the air blows my finger away from the hole, where the rotor is pointing is where plug one should go. I have done that and was able to get the tractor started pulling the choke but it was running rough and ended up dying on me when I was moving it to a more shaded part of the yard. I didn't try to start it back up because I was fine with where it was located. Now I have to figure out why it's running rough. I appreciate your help, JMOR. You fine gentlemen on this forum are life savers, literally. Thank you, sir.
hank you for the kind words. Sounds like you licked the wiring problem & are now likely facing a fuel problem.
 

No problem, every word is well deserved.

Thank you for help pointing me in the direction in which I should go now. I thought maybe a fuel issue but wasn't sure. Before I put the old gas back into the tractor I was going to ask if I should just dump it and get new gas but I didn't, I just used the old gas and added some new to it. Now having a fuel related issue I kind of regret putting the old gas back in. Should have just dumped and went for the new.


Thanks again!
 

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