(quoted from post at 11:07:02 08/08/15) Thank you VERY much for the response, carlntexas! I bought JD's grease while I was just out today and I will fill the box up when it get's put back on the tractor.
My mechanic says his first job was working on tractors so he claims he knows a lot about them but he told me to get real shims and I know you can use other stuff because you have told me so and I know you all know your tractors real good, I just need to try to convince him to use something else like a cereal box so I don't have to wait on the shims to come in the mail.
I watched him assemble the box and having seen it done I know I could do the next one. I would rather let him finish and watch him with the shims so I don't mess something up doing it myself as I have no clue what I'd be looking for when "shimming" it.
Thank you for the response, I appreciate it.
Shimming: If you want to know what to look for with shimming, start with no shims, make sure that your steering column is all assembled with all three bearings (two thrust, one column) the spring under the steering wheel and the steering wheel itself all assembled and ready to go. I, personally turned the pitman arms in the "full right" position; which is the position that they would be in when the tractor's front tires would be turned all of the way to the right. Before putting in your steering column, turn the steering wheel so that the ball nut threads up to a position not quite touching the upper thrust bearing. With the pitman arms and ball nut in that position, it will be the easiest to get your steering column into the gear box.
Put your column in by tipping it back slightly, while holding the steering wheel from turning until all of the ball nut teeth mesh with the sector shaft gear. Then let go of the steering wheel and tip the column forward a little while putting it into the box... being careful to get the end bearing seated in the bottom.
Install the bolts (just a little more than finger tight) into the flange that holds the steering column onto the gearbox to hold things in place.
If you can grab the steering wheel and pull up and down on it...or if it seems to thread up and down when you turn it....BE CAREFUL! You may not have properly seated the bottom thrust bearing. If you turn the steering wheel much under these conditions, you'll probably mash that nice, new thrust bearing that you put on!
Look for two things...is the flange not sitting flush on the gearbox? If you (gently)turn the steering wheel, does it feel like it turns a little before it moves the sector shaft gears? If one or both of those things are true...then measure your gap and add enough shims to equal the gap.
Try the process again.
Repeat until the steering wheel cannot be pulled up and down when the flange mounting bolts are tightened and you feel it engage with the sector gears instantly when you turn it.
In general, the more new parts you put in, the fewer shims you need. If you put on new thrust bearings, it should take maybe just a little less shimming. If you also replaced the upper and lower thrust bearing races along with the bearings, then you may find that it needs quite a bit less shimming than it previously had.
Shims can be cut from any sheet metal material. I would avoid cereal boxes and felt gasket materials, as they will compress over time. The shims are weight bearing surfaces. (Think about how much pressure they hold as you steer the tractor to the right and the ball nut is pulling the sector shaft gear upwards.)
I know it's wordy...but I hope it helps.