Today I've learned;

BlackThumbHomesteader · Jul 28, 2015

That the filler neck on my radiator is soldered on. Was cleaning up a solder ball that was(try to) hold the relief tube on so I could put it back on more securely. I was using a screwdriver to scrape out the softened solder while my torch heated it up...and then the neck just clean fell off.

The upside is that I can now straigten up the filler neck and drill out the relief tube hole to accept a threaded line(2mm brake line in fact) before I get to put it back on. Won't be driving today, but every little repair makes the beast more mine.

old · Jul 28, 2015

Would you believe the the whole radiator is solder together?? The top and bottom tanks can be removed if you get them hot enough and a lot of other parts also can come off that way

old · Jul 28, 2015

Also just so you know if you solder that part back on wrong the fancy cap is you still have one will not sit like it should

Tom N MS · Jul 28, 2015

Yea some fancy caps are adjustable so it will wind up twisted straight rather than annigoddling(as my Grandpa use to say) Some are not adjustable..

BlackThumbHomesteader · Jul 28, 2015

It'll end up more straight than it was! The top of the radiator had been punched in so that I never could get a good seal with the vaned cap and that eventually broke it. I'm using a fancy-less cap currently so it doesn't matter. I AM happy to report that 6mm brake line, with the flare cut off, fits right in the stock opening with almost no wiggle. Now to solder the neck on, solder in the new vent line, and put the hood back on.

Hobo,NC · Jul 29, 2015

(quoted from post at 07:03:49 07/29/15) It'll end up more straight than it was! The top of the radiator had been punched in so that I never could get a good seal with the vaned cap and that eventually broke it. I'm using a fancy-less cap currently so it doesn't matter. I AM happy to report that 6mm brake line, with the flare cut off, fits right in the stock opening with almost no wiggle. Now to solder the neck on, solder in the new vent line, and put the hood back on.

6.3mm steel and 1/4" steel line are the same size.

BlackThumbHomesteader · Jul 29, 2015

True, but I learned metric first and everything here with the exception of my two Ns and their implements is metric. Difficult to think in Imperial terms sometimes.

Hobo,NC · Jul 29, 2015

(quoted from post at 07:31:13 07/30/15) True, but I learned metric first and everything here with the exception of my two Ns and their implements is metric. Difficult to think in Imperial terms sometimes.

I have to deal with your system more than I like and sometimes learn the hard way... I once brought a very expensive flaring tool to do metric brake line with metric bubble flairs... OK I am the man I got a neat tool but were the ell do I get metric line...

I ordered up all the metric line I could find local for this project so I would have parts to work with the next day... The line started coming in the next day It surprised me to see it labeled with the metric and standard size equivalent... I had the line the whole time but did not know it, I had the tool to do the job the hole time but did not know it :twisted:

My point was to keep folks from trying to run down metric line if they ran across this... BTW I would have used copper.

BlackThumbHomesteader · Jul 29, 2015

BTW I would have used copper.

Now that I've done it; me too. Currently have the steel line JB welded in place for the now, going to pick up copper when I am able to get into town this coming week.

I get your message on the metric v imperial though, I've had a similar situation happen before.

Today I've learned;

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