3 point arm leaking fluid

OK, total tractor (and generally mechanic) newbie here who's ready to learn by doing....

My right lower 3point arm leaks fluid constantly, so I'm assuming I need to tear things apart and replace seals. From the bit that I've read, it sounds like I need to pull apart the entire rear end to fix that...is that right?

Basically I wanted to start this issue to see what, exactly, i'm getting myself into. I really don't know much about how all this is put together or even what I'll need to replace, but I know I need to do something (and I'm not going to pay someone..i'll just need to figure it out).

Can anyone give me some (very plain english) steps that I'll be looking at to get this done? I'm looking for general steps (i'll figure out the specifics) like:
1. Jack it up, remove the wheel
2. Take out the bolts in this piece
3. Pull the next part apart like this...
4. Look for wear on this part and order a replacement from this website...
etc....

Obviously I'm not looking for someone to spend an hour writing instructions for me...but just a general workflow to expect so I can prepare myself for whatever I'm getting into.

Thanks so much for any help...I look forward to learning but I'm nervous to start tearing it apart without any overview.

Thanks!

To stop the leak, you need to replace the pin. To do that, you need to remove the axle trumpet. If you remove the left trumpet, you can do them both at the same time. It's held on by a castelated nut w/ a cotter key on the inside.

Drain the fluid (see tips 3 & 4, below. Resist the temptation to park it nose-down in a ditch or to jack up the rear end. If you have a bad front transmission seal, you will fill the bell housing with hydro fluid. Then you get to replace the clutch)

Remove the left trumpet & slide the differential gear out. (an engine hoist is a good idea) Make sure the holes are not wallowed out or you will be in there again. I hear Loctite Quick Metal 660 Retaining Compound, Press Fit Repair.works.Or if the axle housing is really worn, you can use Loctite Fixmaster Fast Set Steel Epoxy, but I've never had the problem so I can't say for sure. Referring to the picture, the pin you need to replace is p/n 563. The hole which may be wallowed out is in the trumpet, p/n 4010 or 4011. The nut that holds the pin on (which is inside the differential housing) is p/n 33860-S. The cotter key is p/n 72035-S. Torque the nut on the new pin to 150 lbs before you put the cotter key in. Wipe the new trumpet gaskets w/ warm water until they are sufficiently pliable to stretch over the studs w/o breaking. Let them set a few minutes before you put them on. Make sure you use your favorite gasket sealer. Torque the 11 trumpet studs to 40 lbs.
And, beware of mission creep: the rear end is probably full of 50+ years of crude, so have some kerosene & rags ready to clean it out!

75 Tips

Rob........gonna assume you have an 8N. BEFORE you do ennythang, remove yer axle BIG NUT's safety wire clip and loosen all 8-brake nuts and drive yer tractor in figger-8's. This will break enny RUST and PAINT holding yer NUTS in place. Then with 2-in NUT SOCKET and tractor ON THE GROUND, break the 450ft/lb tite BIG NUT loose. Because the NUT is innna deep well, you can't use enny kinda openend wrench on the BIG NUT. Most 2-in sockets are 3/4-drive. Iff'n yer sphincterly challenged, RENT a 3/4-drive set from tool rental place. Now you kenn follow Bruces' instructions fer removing the axle trumpet so you kenn fix yer lower 3-point leak. Remember the lower 3-point link is torqued to 150ft/lbs and then cotter keyed to trumpet. Summ el-cheepo previous repairs use a bent nail but kotter keys are best. BTW........450ft/lbs is BIG GRUNT on 4-ft breaker bar. ........HTH, Dell

thanks guys!! I only had time to skim and I'll dive in deeper when I have more time, but for now I just wanted to say thanks and how much I appreciate everyone here.

For what it's worth, it's a 2n (I'm estimating mostly late '43), not sure that changes much.

Thanks, I'm loving this adventure so far!!

" not sure that changes much."

Well, it does.

And because you're a newbie, it's our fault for not asking upfront. I just assumed it was an 8N. My bad. The concept is the same but the pin is different.

When you get ready to fix it, post back & tell us what model tractor you're working on.
75 Tips