NAA axle parts

The hub and rear axle are shot on the NAA, due to the wheel running loose. I will get those two parts used, but what other items will I need. I see in the parts section of this site there are gaskets and seals, etc. The used axel I'm looking at has the bearing in place, but will I need a new race? Want to do the job right.
-- peter

might as well do seals, brakes ( check them anyway ), check that 3pt pin to see if it is leaking or loose.. if it is, now is the time to pull the trumpet.

if you pull the trumpet, do both pins, check ring gear.. etc..

yup.. it's a mission creep thing..

For what it worth. I have done the same exact thing as you. However, I put a new hub on instead. They are not that expensive and well worth it. You never know how bad the used one is worn. Unless of course if they came from someone yoi trust. Used axle, no problem. Used hub, be carefull. Just my opinion.

I wouldn't see a need for a new race unless the old one is in real bad condition. Your not going to be moving at real high speeds a new hub would be a good idea though.

Peter, I just completed the same project on my NAA. There is an inner seal and an outer seal. They come in inner pairs and outer pairs so your purchase for one side of the tractor gets you the seals for the other side. There is a cork gasket plus a felt dust seal around the edge of the backing plate. While you're into the beast that far, I would sure replace the seals; the FO19 manual also says to replace the cork gasket each time. A member here on the board with far more experience than I suggested the felt dust seal around the backing plate was not needed. I had already ordered it so I used it. I needed new brake shoes and drums as they had been run too long metal on metal. The drum was way beyond maximum spec even before being turned again.

Are you doing just one side? If one side was run loose, have you checked the other side for torque? 450 ft/lbs is the spec and that's a lot of muscle, even with a long breaker bar and cheater pipe! Friendly advice to me from the past suggested to use my half inch breaker bar with a cheater pipe and make it as tight as I could. I had done that several years ago when I noticed the nut was loose. I did it again this morning just for experience; then I hooked up the borrowed 3/4" torque wrench that measures to 600 lbs. I was surprised at how much tighter I got the nut going to 450 lbs, despite my previous efforts with the 'farmer method'. A four foot torque wrench does make a difference and 'tight' is a relative term!

Good luck!