1953 ford quit lifting mower

aallan2015

New User
Just since last fall my 53 quit lifting the mower deck. Its stuck in the low position. Someone mentioned checking the fluid levels, but Im not sure if the fill hole under the seat is the same as what the dipstick below the seat measures.
Any ideas on how to get my baby up and running?
 
aallan, welcome to the forum.
Your dipstick checks the hydraulic fluid. Is it full? Milky?
Is your hydraulic pump square or round?
If it is the round piston style pump, you may be able to prime
it through the pipe plug at the front and get it to work again.
Here's a pic of my piston style. Plug is circled.

mvphoto24239.jpg
 
If the pump is primed and pumping the unloading valve my be stuck.

NAA LIFT TROUBLE SHOOT

The cam follower pin/dowel may be cut into or missing from the linkage.

The gasket between the top of the ram cylinder and the bottom of the lift housing may be blown.

If there is a large volume of oil spraying down from above after the inspection plate has been taken off and observed you can bet it is the ram
cylinder gasket. A blown or worn out ram cylinder Oring and back up ring may be a cause too.

The pressure relief valve could be leaking or stuck open with some sort of foreign material between the ball and the seat. The pressure relief valve
on the NAA must be accessed by removing the top lift cover because it is on the back side of the ram cylinder. The later model tractors have it
under the remote control valve adapter cover on the top of the lift housing.

First thing you need to do is before starting the engine take out the bleeder plug at front top of the piston pump. If their are a lot of bubbles
comes out first before the oil becomes free of bubbles you may be loosing prime. If not then you have a sticking or immovable unloading valve in the
lift. Or some other part has come loose or the cam follower pin has worn to a critical point

Remove the right hand inspection plate and with an implement in the lift arms try to lift and observe inside for any flow of oil caused by an
internal leak around the ram cylinder. There should be no oil coming from above except for a small drip from the control valve section and this is
from wear in the spool and bushing and if small is acceptable.

You need to be sure that the big flat O ring that goes between the backpressure valve and the right side of the lift is good and not leaking when
you take the lift off.
Do you know the procedure for removing and replacing the lift in relation to the backpressure valve@ the acorn nut etc.? It is under the big acorn
nut that is located on the right side of the lift housing . The nut must me removed and the large hollow stud must be turned at least two complete
turn to the left counter clock wise so the back pressure valve will be clear of the internal lift components when the lift cover is removed. Do not
turn the hollow stud too much or you will damage the back pressure valve and the unloading valve will not work if the backpressure valve is
inoperative.

Remove all the linkage to the 3 point hitch so that the lift assembly is free of all attachments. Remove all the bolts from around the outside edge
of the lift housing assembly. Do not remove any bolts that are not along the outside edge. If you encounter a bolt with fine threads it should be
reinstalled.

Remove the 3 bolts that hold the triangular plate toward the front of the lift assembly that is a part of the ram cylinder assembly.
Pull the plug that is over the unloading valve by tapping the end of the unloading valve that is accessible through the opening in the rear facing
portion of the housing. Use a flat punch and only enough force to cause the plug to be displaced. push the unloading valve out with a punch etc.
I have read that the unloading valve can be replaced on the NAA with the later than 100 series unloading valve such as the thousand series three
cylinder tractors but have never come across that myself. If it did have the later unloading valve the plug will have a female threaded hole in it
to attach a puller to remove it.
Replace the O ring attached with the Ford Part #NCA 836 B or the current replacement number O ring and nothing else .Not a parts house O ring. You
will be sorry! An aftermarket gasket and O ring kit will have the correct O ring for the unloading valve. This O ring leaking can cause hiccupping
and leak down too.
Polish up the unloading valve with 300 grit paper and hone out the bore with the same on a pencil or dowel wrapped with sandpaper.
Examine everything for missing bolts or pins and linkage hanging loose etc.
Closely examine the cam follower pin for excessive wear. The cam follower pin is the main thing that caused the lift to not attain it’s maximum lift
height. If it is worn replace it.

Name: ZANE
E-Mail: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Ford 600- Lifting
Body of Message:
There is a cam cast on to the rocker shaft that is inside the lift housing. This is what the outside lift arms are attached to. The ram rod for the
lift cylinder's rear end is attached to the lever cast beside the cam. There is a cam follower that is pressed into the control linkage. It is a pin
of approx. 5/16" diameter and one inch long. There is no lubrication at this point in the lift and the pin wears out causing the gradual lose of
adjustment travel. The pin must be replaced and the linkage re adjusted as per specifications which I don't know off the top of my head and which
usually takes a feeler type gauge to measure between the control valve head and the cylinder housing where the control valve goes into the spool in
the housing.
Now is definitely the time to replace the cam follower pin. That much wear does make a lot of difference in how the lift works and when it starts to
lift according to where the lift control is positioned.
I would definitely obtain the correct part to replace it with. Don't go with a cut off bolt etc. as it will wear down too quick. If you are going to
consider using a bolt etc you may as well leave the old pin in place because with it worn half way into it out last a bolt etc.
. The replacement is a hardened pin and it has to be hard to prevent rapid wear. There is no lubrication to the pin. Be sure and support the linkage
as close to the pin hole as possible while driving the pin in or out. You can do this by holding a long heavy flat ended bar by the pin as it is
driven out with a punch of correct diameter. Usually takes two people to do it. One to hammer and one to cuss.
Added on Date: 05:50:33 2/14/99
Added on Date: 03:53:56 7/10/99


The 20 w oil probably would not have any effect on the operation of the lift unless it could have in some way caused the O ring on the unloading
valve to change shape. The 134 oil is what I would use. However you guys who are where it goes down to 0 deg probably could use a lighter oil
better.
I would first try bleeding the pump by removing the front pipe plug with the Allen head hole in it. Start the tractor and let it idle as slow as
possible and when all the bubbles are gone stop the tractor and put the plug back in. You will loose about a half cup usually so put something under
the pump to catch the oil.
If it won't work then you must go into the lift and take out the unloading valve and clean it up and replace the O ring with the Ford O ring made
specifically for the unloading valve. The old part # was NCA 836B. Don't use a substitute or you will be sorry.
It is a good idea to replace the back pressure valve or at least see that it is working properly.@ has some resistance to air pressure etc .Also be
sure the big O ring that seals the back pressure valve to the side of the lift is in good order.
The back pressure valve must be disengaged from the side of the lift housing inside by removing the large acorn nut on the right side of the lift
housing and backing the large hollow screw out counter clock wise till a light resistance is felt. Stop unscrewing then as you will damage the valve
if force is used past when you feel resistance.

The back pressure function is to allow for the movement of the unloading valve. The unloading valve is what makes the lift begin to move once the
control valve is moved. The control valve itself does not move the lift.
The unloading valve is covered by a plate at the front of the control valve housing just above the control valve. The unloading valve is covered by
a 25cent size plug.. The valve can then be pushed out with a punch of the appropriate size. By slightly tapping the end of it till the small plug
pops out The O ring will be on the unloading valve that needs to be replaced.
If you will look around on the other reference pages of the N board etc you can probably find some good views of the lift to give you some idea of
what you will be looking at.
When taking the lift control housing off the tractor remove only the bolts that are around the ;outside edge of the housing and do not remove any of
the bolt that are inside this circle of bolts. If you encounter a bolt that has fine threads on it put it back where you took it out. The fine bolts
hold the cylinder to the cover housing.
Good luck Zane in Al.
 
Not sure on a NAA I have never had the pleasure of working on the hydraulics on one...

Faced with issues on a 860 my first thought was to eliminate the pump as a issue are somehow split the system and eliminate at the least part of it... I removed the PTO shifter/inspection cover boy was I highly disappointment I could not see chit are what I wanted too even with all the gadgets I had on hand... I took the fill plug out from under the seat :shock: there it WUZ all I needed to see right in front of my eyes...

I used a long screwdriver and pushed the lift control valve in the lift sprung to life with a heavy implement on it... I was able to control the lift with a screwdriver I was a happy man I had just eliminated a bunch of doodads...

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1218671&highlight=valve

If this had not worked out for me I would have had to build another battle plan (unknown at this time)
 
Thank you guys for helping me, i am afraid this is amurature hour as I have never worked on the hydrolics of this before.
I had the fluids replaced a couple years ago and some work done on the PTO lever, so this was all opened up before.
I know the pump works (it is not the round one pictured above).
I started to take it apart and took the little plate off in the attached picture. The three holes circled in red were full of what i believe was metal chips. I do not know what this plate is.
I do not know what the little handle circled in blue is.
I did open up a peek hole on the left side (as your sitting on the tractor) and saw a rod did move in and out with the tractor not running.
I am new at this, so any help will be gratefully received![/img]
24287.jpg
 
can anyone explain what the lever circled in blue is, or why those three holes circled in red would have metel shaving in them?
Thanks, Tony
 
The lever circled in red switches your 3pt hitch from draft
mode to position control mode. In draft mode a ground engaging
implement such as a plow will pull on the large spring at the top
link connection and the 3pt will automatically adjust its depth to
maintain a constant draft.
In position control mode the 3pt height stays where you set it.

The plate is where you could mount a diverter valve for use
with external hydraulics. Hard to find one for a Jubilee now.

I can't tell you where the metal shavings came from for sure.
Maybe the pump, maybe a previous pump?
 
OK, ty, i guess i'll pop that plate up and see if i can see why my 3 point wont move.
Thank you guys for all your help!
 
(quoted from post at 15:31:16 07/17/15) Here is another one! I changed the fluid and got it to go up, but now it wont go down. Any ideas?
ith all the trash we saw under the accessory plate/in the plate transfer holes, my 1st guess would be trash in the control valve preventing it from moving to lower position. Remove the plug in that accessory plate & it will probably drop like a rock while bathing you in oil, thus proving that problem is in control valving and not in ram or mechanical linkage between ram & lift arms.
 
JMOR, you were exactly correct down to the oil bath, TY!
Thank you Royse, ZANE, and HOBO, NC...you guys were a great help!
I flushed it a couple times, and will do some more in the AM. I am very greatful, ty so much.

I guess I should ask while im here, any good ways to flush this out? I have been adding hydrolic fluid and opening the plug. I did this about 4x so far, but i am new to this.
 
(quoted from post at 19:33:22 07/17/15) JMOR, you were exactly correct down to the oil bath, TY!
Thank you Royse, ZANE, and HOBO, NC...you guys were a great help!
I flushed it a couple times, and will do some more in the AM. I am very greatful, ty so much.

I guess I should ask while im here, any good ways to flush this out? I have been adding hydrolic fluid and opening the plug. I did this about 4x so far, but i am new to this.
don't know how you would ever get the small particles out of the valve/bushings and passages outside of total disassemble of the cylinder/valve body. See the bushings & spool and other parts here that could trap & hold particles. Clearances are very, very small.
 

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