2N ectronic Ignition Conversion

I have had it with my points i have had to change them way too much, and when i say to much i mean more than 3 times and i bought the tractor in 04/2014. :evil: The worst part is that i would say i have gotten maybe a month use out of the tractor with all the issues i have had, ditching the points should help a lot. They are my biggest issue.

So conversion kit time, but which one?

1art Number 1247XTP6: comes with new coil, coil clamp, coil wire and distributor cap

2art Number 1247P6: this bad boy just replaces the points and condenser.

I did replace my coil already this year, distributor cap last year, so i think i only need #2.

Also will this part work for my tractor? I have 2N 1944 6v.

Or would would it be best to upgrade to a 12v system? I want the tractor to run its best. If upgrading to 12v is best dose this kit work for my tractor?

1: Part Number 8NE10300ALT-C

Then i would be fine with this ectronic Ignition Conversion kit right?

1: Part Number 1247

Thanks you guys are always helpful
Nathanial Hartz

IF you are truly ruining 3 sets of points that quickly, then I would say you have some other issue and electronic ignition is not going to solve that. Why are you going thru points so fast?

Since you have a 2n with the front mount I thought you had to convert to a round can coil and ditch the square coil with EI. that would mean you need a kit with a coil

Also if you are considering EI I definitely think 12 volts would be the way to go. From what I have read there isn't enough juice to spare in the 6 v system with EI. You really leave yourself no room for error.

Have you checked the bushings? That's the
usual cause of frequent points replacement.
That and using cheap points.
75 Tips

Well i would say that its mostly my fault that I'm going through points so fast. I have left the ignition on a few times, because it would die from a different reason and i would forget to turn off the switch(not my proudest moments). But i have also had the points go bad fast from sitting as well. It wouldn't be as big a pain if the the hood was not attached to the gas tank, disconnect the fuel line, remove the steering wheel. haha so the main reason is operator error when it comes to killing points.

Ok so I would be better off going with 12v upgrade, and 12v full EI kit

1art Number 8NE10300ALT-C
2art Number 1247XT

Would I need any thing else?

well the issue is me and lack of use because it takes me some time to get it fixed when it has an issue. But after this it will i think it should be ok. i did new plugs, plug wires, carb has been cleaned new parts and gaskets, new fuel line and sediment bowl, new wiring and ignition switch.

you don't have to remove the hood to change the points (don't ask) just remove the 2 distributor bolts and take it out, pay attention to the plug wire location's and change, set points on the kitchen table. reinstall bolts loosely and turn rotor until it "sets " in, will only go in one way (did I get it right Dell?). IMHO you have another problem, as was said check the bushing.

" I have left the ignition on a few times, "

Worse case when you do that with points is that you burn up the points & the coil: a $50 mistake. Do that w/ EI & you burn up the module in most models. That's a $130 mistake.

Why are you removing the hood to change the points?

The front distributor was designed to come off of the tractor to replace/adjust the points. To do this, remove the wire on the coil, remove the coil bail, remove the distributor cap & take the two bolts off. The base of the distributor has an offset tang & can only go back one way unless you really force it on.

The first thing you need to check is bushing wear. If the shaft has any sideways movement AT ALL, the bushings must be replaced.

Make sure you are using quality points. I use only Wells, Blue Streak or Echlin brand points. If you are using quality points and cannot get the gap to open to .015, chances are you need to replace the bushings.

* NAPA part numbers:
• Points: FD-6769X
• Condenser: FD-71
• Rotor: FD-104
• Cap: FD-126
75 Tips

Nathanial Hartz,I would try a quality set of blue streak points #FD-6769X (NAPA),check the dist for worn bushings,replace all 4 of the gaskets.Like others have said 2 bolts and remove the distributor,don't take the hood off gosh!Put a small red clearance light 6 volt bulb on the dash to let you see that you left the ignition switch on.A good set of points should last you 10 years or more if every thing is correct.Leave it 6 volt!

I see i was under the impression that if i left it on with an EI it would just kill the battery like on a car, i guess not.

I will get the parts from Napa Bruce do they normally have them in stock or special order? and do you happen to know the # for the coil to safe than sorry i should replace that when i do the points.

Den had a Great idea about installing a light, I will do that it should help.

are these good directions to replacing my points? http://www.my9n.com/timing.htm

" I will get the parts from Napa Bruce do they normally have them in stock or special order?"

Depends on the NAPA store. I'd call first.

Or you can order Bluestreak points from this site or nnalert's.

NAPA square coil number is Coil IC670 (supposedly 6v, but check resistance or ask)

The first thing you need to check is bushing wear. If the shaft has any sideways movement AT ALL, the bushings must be replaced. (see below)

Next, look at how the points & condenser are set in the distributor before you start pulling it down! Turn the tang & observe how the points open & close. If this is your first time doing it, draw a sketch! Make sure you are using quality points. I use only Wells, Blue Streak or Echlin brand points (* see below). Be careful not to ground the tip of the condenser wire to the body of the distributor when you replace the points. Do not break the little copper strip that go to the points. (If you do, make another out of the old set of points). Also, make sure the condenser wire does not go through the same opening in the distributor as the coil pig tail.

The condenser wire goes through the opening on the top right.

Look at the old points; are they burned, pitted or misaligned? Check the point gap, .015 on all four lobes. Make sure the blade is at a perfect right angle to the points. You want to feel just the slightest bit of drag when you pull the blade through the points. Set the points on the high side of the cam and ensure they align correctly. Make sure you have the star washers under the screws on the points. If you need to replace the 8-32 X .19 fillister head screws, ensure that the new screws do not interfere with the advance weights. Dress the points by running a piece of card stock or a brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. And, don’t forget to lube the rubbing block w/ cam lube; not Vaseline, not bearing grease, but cam lube (** see below).

If you are using quality points and cannot get the gap to open to .015, chances are you need to replace the bushings.

Now, set the timing. Get a meter or test light, a 21/64” drill bit (*** see below) & a metal straight edge. Put the distributor face down w/ the condenser on the left & the timing plate lock screw on the bottom. Look at the end of the shaft: it has a narrow side & a wide side. Make sure you can tell the difference. Now, place the drill bit in the bottom mounting hole (this will be your reference point for measuring). Next, place a straight edge on the wide side of the tang on the shaft as shown in fig. FO83 in the picture. Rotate the shaft CCW (as viewed from rotor side OR CW as viewed from back/tang side) until the straight edge is ¼" beyond the outside edge of the drill bit you stuck in the distributor mounting hole. At this distance, the distributor points should start to open (get your meter/light out now & check). If not, loosen the timing plate lock screw and turn to advance or retard the timing (move the plate down to advance timing, up to retard). Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 4° of timing. Keep adjusting until you get the proper ¼" setting. (if the plate won’t move, you might need to remove the big C clip to loosen it a bit) As you’re adjusting, eliminate backlash by turning the shaft backwards (CW as viewed from the front) and bring the shaft forward (CCW as viewed from the front) to measure your setting. This ¼" setting will get you static timing at top dead center.

After you set the points & timing, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor. Before you start, make sure your meter/light works.

With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:

1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.

2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.

3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!

4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!

At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil misaligned trying to put it back together, one piece at a time. The result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem.

It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. Whatever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts). Place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush with the timing gear cover.

Double-check your firing order & plug wires. It’s 1-2-4-3, counterclockwise. It’s very easy to cross 3 & 4.

And finally, do not forget to remove the distributor on an annual basis (more often, depending on use) to check the point gap and re-lube the cam.

* NAPA part numbers:
• Points: FD-6769X
• Condenser: FD-71
• Rotor: FD-104
• Cap: FD-126

** Distributor cam lube:

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=ECH+ML1&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=ECH+ML1&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

** Distributor cam lube
http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/subcategory__10151_-1_10651_11340

*** Rather than the drill bit, a jig made by Dan Allen (The Old Hokie) will make this task quicker & more accurate.

http://windyridgefarm.us/

**** Unscrew the plate hold down screw & remove the C clip to get the plate out. Remove the shaft & weights. The weights should freely move.

There are three ways to replace the bushings in a front distributor:

1. Buy new bushings (part numbers 9N12120 front & 18-12132 rear). Press out the old ones, press in the new ones and ream to fit. CAUTION: do not try this unless you have a press & know how to use it. If you break the base, a new one costs $130. If you bend the tower which holds the front bushing, a new plate will cost you $30.

2. Take the new bushings and distributor to your local machine shop.

3. Send the distributor out for bushing replacement if you do not have a local machine shop.
75 Tips

You are either buying cheap points or you need to rebuild the distributor. I bought my 9n in 1999 and just last April put the
second set of points in it. It was still running fine when I changed them.

leaving the key turned on is hard on EI systems and the coil. Can also cause issues with some Altinators.

"Points going bad from just sitting" are usually the result of light corrosion on the points caused by lack of use. Cleaning the points with a scrap of file card or similar cardboard fixes it. This takes about 5 minutes a year if you don't take the tank off.

Whatever you do about EI, may want to consider doing a conversion to a round coil at the same time. Round coil is cheaper, gives better spark and rarely harmed by leaving the key on.

ok I ordered the new parts from napa will install and let you know how it goes

(quoted from post at 05:25:44 07/03/15) "may want to consider doing a conversion to a round coil at the same time. Round coil is cheaper, gives better spark and rarely harmed by leaving the key on.

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what would i need to do this? do i need special parts to do this? I already have the parts that Bruce (VA) recommended. whats the part # for the round coil on here or what ever site its on i saw some round coils on here but they were more expensive and looked like i would need special parts to use? what coil would you guys recommend? i forgot to order one so any recommendations are always welcome.

also i forgot to order new gaskets, i think i should order these what do you think?

I'm also considering changing to EI on my 2N. Rational is ever since the original dist. plate broke (rivet) I have been unable to get a new plate of sufficient quality to get the proper gap and alignment of contact points. The biggest issue I see is the placement of the pivot pin in relationship to the center and adjustment screws. To enable the .015 gap I have to modify the adjustment holes which throws off the alignment of the contact points as well as the widen the center hole so it fits over the pivot pin. Just to let you all know, the bushings are fine and the cam lobes are in spec. I have 4 of the new design breaker plate and each has the same issues although each is slightly different. I did have a conversation with a reputable parts supplier where he mentioned his frustration with the supplier over the quality of the dist. plate and confirmed what I was seeing. I'm not a mechanic but get along and have had this tractor for 30 years. Prior to the old plate breaking I changed the points every few years and never had a problem. I did learn my lesson to get the higher quality point set but that doesn't make up for the poor quality dist. plate.