Lost oil pressure, Ford 8N SN *28xxxx
Summary:
The day after an oil change the tractor started but had no oil pressure, verified zero pressure.
Background:
I helped my father change the oil in his Ford 8n SN *28x162. I can’t remember the exact serial number but I’m sure about the *28. That should make it a mid-1950 model from what I read.
He purchased the tractor in March and it had been sitting around, so I thought I would give him a hand while I was visiting. I researched the various forums and we had a manual as well. I have worked on many engines but never an old ford tractor. I'm just hoping I didn’t break his old Ford!
Details:
1. We cleaned the air cleaner screens and changed the air cleaner oil. The rubber hose near the carburetor was old and brittle allowing air to slip past, so we replaced it.
2. Charged the battery, stock 6 volt, positive ground system.
3. Gas leaked out of the fuel bulb as soon as we opened the shut-off, so I disassemble it, cleaned it out and replaced the deformed cork gasket.
4. The tractor started right up and ran fine. I was very happy to see my driving his tractor. It smoked a little and had a slight miss at idle. We noted the oil pressure was about 20 psi and the needle bounced around quite a bit. The previous owner was running 10W oil. Dad said he was told to chance it out for the summer. This made a lot of sense so we did it.
5. Next we tackled the oil, oil filter and spark plugs. We replaced the 1010 filter with a Fram C3 filter. [b:49d2647142]Oil[/b:49d2647142] - we drained the oil and cleaned the screen attached to the plug. The screen looked like it was attached well and in good shape, but the bottom of the plug was full of sludge. I cleaned it all up, but the bottom of the pan was in the same state. I told my dad he may need to change the oil again and run some motor flush right before he drains the oil. [b:49d2647142]Filter[/b:49d2647142] - we installed the Fram C3 with the metal flange pointing up and the lettering right side up. I found the washer that was suppose to be between the spring and the filter under the old filter, so I moved it back to the top per the illustration. The flow through the filter didn’t make and sense to me it’s almost as if the oil runs into the filter not through it. My internet was spotty at his place so this complicated the situation. The small gasket that went between the bolt and top cover was bad, so we hand cut one as a temporary solution. We added oil to the filter bowl and the crankcase. [b:49d2647142]Plugs[/b:49d2647142] – we could not get the Autolite 437’s so we installed the H12’s. These seemed to be the two top choices. The old plugs looked really bad, black and full of gunk. I was surprised it started and ran so well!
6. The tractor started right up after all the work and ran the same as before. The pressure was 50 psi at first but dropped to 30 psi after it warmed up. I didn’t like it being so high and was keeping a close eye on the oil pressure. I didn’t know what normal 30W oil pressure was suppose to be. Dad took it for a spin after it warmed up. It seemed to be smoking more with the heavier oil, and that didn’t make sense. We decided to order a rebuild kit for the carburetor and called it a day.
Problem:
The next day the tractor started but had zero oil pressure. This was spotted right away, so I don’t think any damage occurred. Thinking it might be the gauge we removed the oil filter from the bowl and checked the level. It was low as if it had been sitting. We cranked the motor to look for flow into the filter bowl and saw nothing. We check the crankcase level, it looked good.
I did some web searching and told dad to do the following:
1. Check the antifreeze for oil
2. Drop the oil plug and check the pickup for obstructions, and that it is secure.
3. Temporally remove the oil filter
4. Prime the oil pump by following one of the many descriptions online. I stressed the use for very heavy weight oil.
5. Also, do not try to remove the oil pan!
Did a screw something up by making a rookie mistake?
Comments are welcome.
Summary:
The day after an oil change the tractor started but had no oil pressure, verified zero pressure.
Background:
I helped my father change the oil in his Ford 8n SN *28x162. I can’t remember the exact serial number but I’m sure about the *28. That should make it a mid-1950 model from what I read.
He purchased the tractor in March and it had been sitting around, so I thought I would give him a hand while I was visiting. I researched the various forums and we had a manual as well. I have worked on many engines but never an old ford tractor. I'm just hoping I didn’t break his old Ford!
Details:
1. We cleaned the air cleaner screens and changed the air cleaner oil. The rubber hose near the carburetor was old and brittle allowing air to slip past, so we replaced it.
2. Charged the battery, stock 6 volt, positive ground system.
3. Gas leaked out of the fuel bulb as soon as we opened the shut-off, so I disassemble it, cleaned it out and replaced the deformed cork gasket.
4. The tractor started right up and ran fine. I was very happy to see my driving his tractor. It smoked a little and had a slight miss at idle. We noted the oil pressure was about 20 psi and the needle bounced around quite a bit. The previous owner was running 10W oil. Dad said he was told to chance it out for the summer. This made a lot of sense so we did it.
5. Next we tackled the oil, oil filter and spark plugs. We replaced the 1010 filter with a Fram C3 filter. [b:49d2647142]Oil[/b:49d2647142] - we drained the oil and cleaned the screen attached to the plug. The screen looked like it was attached well and in good shape, but the bottom of the plug was full of sludge. I cleaned it all up, but the bottom of the pan was in the same state. I told my dad he may need to change the oil again and run some motor flush right before he drains the oil. [b:49d2647142]Filter[/b:49d2647142] - we installed the Fram C3 with the metal flange pointing up and the lettering right side up. I found the washer that was suppose to be between the spring and the filter under the old filter, so I moved it back to the top per the illustration. The flow through the filter didn’t make and sense to me it’s almost as if the oil runs into the filter not through it. My internet was spotty at his place so this complicated the situation. The small gasket that went between the bolt and top cover was bad, so we hand cut one as a temporary solution. We added oil to the filter bowl and the crankcase. [b:49d2647142]Plugs[/b:49d2647142] – we could not get the Autolite 437’s so we installed the H12’s. These seemed to be the two top choices. The old plugs looked really bad, black and full of gunk. I was surprised it started and ran so well!
6. The tractor started right up after all the work and ran the same as before. The pressure was 50 psi at first but dropped to 30 psi after it warmed up. I didn’t like it being so high and was keeping a close eye on the oil pressure. I didn’t know what normal 30W oil pressure was suppose to be. Dad took it for a spin after it warmed up. It seemed to be smoking more with the heavier oil, and that didn’t make sense. We decided to order a rebuild kit for the carburetor and called it a day.
Problem:
The next day the tractor started but had zero oil pressure. This was spotted right away, so I don’t think any damage occurred. Thinking it might be the gauge we removed the oil filter from the bowl and checked the level. It was low as if it had been sitting. We cranked the motor to look for flow into the filter bowl and saw nothing. We check the crankcase level, it looked good.
I did some web searching and told dad to do the following:
1. Check the antifreeze for oil
2. Drop the oil plug and check the pickup for obstructions, and that it is secure.
3. Temporally remove the oil filter
4. Prime the oil pump by following one of the many descriptions online. I stressed the use for very heavy weight oil.
5. Also, do not try to remove the oil pan!
Did a screw something up by making a rookie mistake?
Comments are welcome.
