inheriting a "N" tractor

I'm "inheriting" a Ford - don't know which "N" it is.

I was told that it ran fine when parked about 2 years ago, but that the man forgot to turn off the gas; it has leaked into the oil and I will need to change the oil.

I'm considering two ways of getting started. I could winch it onto a trailer and take it to the house or I could change the oil where it sits and try to crank it to drive it onto the trailer.

I am sure I will have lots of questions, and know I need to get manual etc. but that brings up the basic question - How do I identify which "N" it is?

Also, any thoughts about how to proceed would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 
Depends on how far away it is.
If a long way then I would just winch it on and haul it home.
More time to look it over at your leisure and see what all it needs.
No pressure to skip over things and get it running.
They are great small tractors.
I inherited my first tractor from my father, about 15 years ago.
It was a 2N. One rear tire and rim were completely shot and falling off but the bugger started right up and I drove it onto the trailer as it was.
They are great fun to fool around with but watch out that you don't get caught up in the "restoration" craze.
The best thing I [b:654c4848f0]never[/b:654c4848f0] did was to restore that tractor.
I put new rear tires on it and cleaned it up, fixed all the leaks and such and ran it for a couple years.
Then I sold it and bought a newer one.
I see So many guys here get an old tractor one way or another and then go hog wild restoring it - rebuilt engines, fancy paint, all the gew gaws and do dads, etc.
And before they know it they have $5K in a tractor that is maybe worth half that.
Everyone here will tell you how addictive they are. But my best advice to you is don't let it get out of hand.
 
You can search threads here, or in the lighter gray bar near the top of the page, click on the "Ford 9N,2N,8N" part and there are some articles on the right side that can help with ID.

Get pics and post them here, look up serial numbers. Here is a link for some more info too. http://www.oldfordtractors.com/identify.htm
 
Winch it on the trailer and take it home and change the oil. Smell the gas and drain a bit from the carb. Then try to start it with all your tools at the ready. Hopefully you got a good one like me. 35 years ago I bought a house and met the neighbor and his wife. I remember then he had an old tractor he pulled trees out of the woods for and cut and split them by hand. He allowed me to hunt his 135 acres and I always made sure I stopped back in and told him what I had seen. He always complained about the guy he bought the tractor from never told him of a cracked block (behind the oil filter housing). He'd head into the woods with a gallon jug of water. Any way he died in 2002 and his widow in 2013 (at 97). Kept the place plowed in the winter and shoveled the roof when bad for her. Then the family offered the place for me and somehow I found a bank that convinced me I could afford it. Opened up the barn and there is the 8N. Figured it was long gone. Pumped up the tires and drained the gas and hooked up a new 6v battery and guess what. I chocked it enuf to make the gas roll out the carb and she started and purred like it ran the day before. Cracked block dosent leak enuf to worry about. Sometimes you get lucky.
 
winch it on
all old tractors will need this or that before you should allow them to move under their own power.
(it'll save you money in the long run)

When you have it home, study here, books, whatever, with the tractor right there for reference.
google "oldfordtractors"
and the Smith site will tell you pretty much all you need to know about models/years etc.
good luck
 
Do not attempt to turn the engine over. You could break the rings if they are rusted to the cylinder walls.

Next, get the manuals. (see tip # 39 at the link)

Pull all plugs, add a cup or more of automatic transmission fluid (ATF ) or Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in each cylinder. Pull both valve covers & soak everything w/ MMO or ATF. Scrub it all down w/ a wire brush. Remove the 15/16 hex nut to the right of the water pump. This is where your oil gallery is for the valves/lifters is. Don't lose the little spring under the nut. Use an oil squirt can to put about a cup of oil in here. Replace the spring & nut. Then, start looking for mouse/hornet nests in places like the tail pipe & carb breather hose. Wait at least 2 or 3 days before you do anything, then try & hand crank the engine. (w/o spark plugs) If it does not turn by hand, repeat everything you just did, ie, more MMO or ATF. If it still won’t turn by hand, remove the starter (see tip # 36) and use a BF screwdriver or jack handle on the ring gear teeth to try & turn it over. Once you get it to turn by hand, then change all the fluids (check tips 3 & 4 at the link below for info on the tranny/pump/rear end fluid change) Fluids include oil & filter, oil in the air cleaner, and 50/50 water & antifreeze. Grease all fittings. Replace the points, plugs, condenser, rotor & cap. If the wires are cracked & frayed, replace them as well, or you will spend days trying to find that one short. Clean all connections bright & shiny. Put a couple of tablespoons of oil in each cylinder to help lubricate the cylinder walls & increase start-up compression. Before you put the valve covers back on, coat everything again w/ oil . Clean the fuel screens in the carb & sediment bowl. Spray the carb good w/ carb cleaner. (Some people can get a carb to work like this after setting for years. Some people win the lottery. I have never got away w/ an old carb working; plan on a rebuild). Drain the gas or whatever is in the tank. Add at least two gallons of fresh gas & make sure you have a good flow by removing the bolt at the bottom of the carb. Keep some starting fluid or propane handy. You will need a new battery; it needs a good battery to power the ignition as well as turn over the starter. Just before you try to start it, prime the oil pump by removing the 15/16" hex nut again, & use w/ 90w gear oil this time. Spin the starter over (key off) & make sure you have oil pressure showing on the gauge. Remember, you filled the cylinders w/ oil, so it will smoke a lot when it gets going. Once you get it running, just let it idle for a few minutes while you check closely for leaks (oil, water, gas) & make sure it has good oil pressure. Then, it should be run at variable RPM. Internal parts that would normally have a film of oil have gotten dry. Run the engine up to around 1500 RPM and back down, put it in gear and make a few laps around the yard at various speeds. This will quickly get some heat into the oil and splash oil everywhere it needs to be inside the engine. Continue to watch for leaks, smoke or other problems (like no brakes).


Good luck & check back!
75 Tips
 
This is not a 100% way to know which is which but works on most. I-Beam radius rods 9N. Tube type 2N if they have a 3 speed transmission. If it has a 4 speed then it is an 8N unless i has a valve in head engine then it could be one of the later as in 1953 and later tractors
 
Get it home, print out Bruce's 75 Tips, grab a cold drink & spend a little time at the shed.
You'll be a pro before you know it! :D
 
Got it home and actually printed the 75 Tips last night, but haven't memorized them all.

Probably done for the day. It was an hour drive each way. Tractor was parked in the sun; it was 95 degrees (literally) and only have a hand crank winch.

Maybe I should buy an electric winch, but I only need one a few times each year.

Guys, thanks for all the support.

I will try to load pictures later.
 
Change the gas, charge the battery and fire it up! It make take years to learn all the little things that make it run well, but making it run at all isn't too hard at
all! eNJOY
 
(quoted from post at 19:31:17 06/20/15) An up draft Carburetor will not leak gas into the oil.

I just saw some specs that indicate the 8N comes standard with an updraft carb. Does that mean my guy was mistaken?

Thanks.
 
(quoted from post at 22:31:17 06/20/15) An up draft Carburetor will not leak gas into the oil.

sorry but I'd disagree to an extent here. no it will not leak directly into the oil, but if you ever had your float stick open and your intake piping is all tight it could fill up and flood the crankcase.

ask me how I know. lol
 

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