strategy for overheating issue ?

manya77

Member
Now that my 9N starting issue seems to be resolved, I need to attack the overheating. Before, when I could coax it to start, it would
get very hot very quick, run about a half hour and then stop dead.
Efforts to revive even the next day were compromised by the ignition issues. It has been lying dead in the field for a week, now I can get it close to a water hose to flush out the radiator. I have a new thermostat at the ready.

In what sequence should I troubleshoot ?
 
You might also want to check your timing, if timing is way retarded this can cause engine over hearting problems as well. Also check your thermostat.
 
manya77.......I flunked mind reading, just ask my ex-wife of 32-yrs. What tractor are you talking about?? .......Dell
 
manys77........iff'n yer still haffin' run problems, it takes about 1-hr fer the 4-nipple squarecan ignition coil to fail from heat. As fer yer radiator question, first thing I'd due is back-blow the radiator fins from the engine side to make certain nuttin' clogged. Then without the thermostat in the upper radiator hoze, I'd put some white vinegar to try to unplug the radiator tubes while runnin' the engine without the cap on 'cuz I wanna see the water move. Of course you could also buy radiator flush from yer autoparts store. mox-nix .......HDH, Dell
 
The most common reason for an N to “over heat” is over filling the radiator. Only add enough fluid to cover the core. (check out tip # 24, below as well as tips 25 & 35) It is not actually over heating; it is just spewing out the excess water.

If the radiator is not overfilled, check for low coolant, a loose fan belt, debris in the radiator fins or a stuck thermostat. A bad water pump will usually squeak or leak. (If you ever have a water pump start leaking or making noise, replace it immediately. A N water pump will come apart & launch the fan into the radiator.) And, unless you have a new/rebuilt water pump from a reputable source, it could have impeller erosion. The pump will turn, it won’t leak, but it isn’t circulating water.

In order to have a stuck thermostat, you need to have one installed. Squeeze the top hose; if it has a t-stat, you can feel it. Sometimes (rarely) the t-stat can migrate in the hose & get stuck closed. Or, in an attempt to keep that from happening, some owners will put a third clamp on the hose & tighten it too much resulting in a stuck t-stat. The OEM top hose came w/ a non-adjustable ban to keep the t-stat in place.

The fan belt should have 1/2" of flex at the mid-point; no more, no less.

Unless you have a pusher fan, blowing out the radiator from the engine side is always a good idea.

But, sometimes you just have to bite the bullet & flush out the block & radiator. To do that, remove the t-stat from the top hose. Then, remove the bottom hose from the radiator, stuff a rag in the bottom radiator hose connection, & stick your garden hose in the top of the radiator. Turn the water on (reverse flush) & the water will flow into the radiator, then the block & out of the disconnected lower hose. Let it run until the water is clear. Then, check the radiator flow. Stick the hose in the top of the radiator; the water should flow out of the bottom w/o backing up in the filler neck. It should flow at 19.5 gallons a minute. As a final flush, put a gallon of white vinegar & about 2 gallons of water in the radiator, run it to operating temp & then drain it again. Don’t forget to put the t-stat back in correctly!

Use 50/50 anti-freeze & distilled water as your coolant. The anti-freeze contains rust inhibitors, pump lubricant & raises the boiling point of the coolant.
75 Tips
 
I am not describing properly. There is no bubbling over of the radiator. Coolant level stays steady. But the engine block gets
very hot very fast, within minutes.
 
Bad thermostat will cause that type of problem due to low or no coolant flow. Or the radiator is so full of dust etc that little or no air gets across the fins. Or the system is so full of rust/lime it has little room for water flow. Me I would start it up and rive it as fast as I could shut it down let it sit till cool and do that again till you have it close to a hose. Then I would drain the system and fill with vinegar and also hose out the fins. I would then start it up with the vinegar in it and run till warmed up and let cool and start it again till warmed up and do that a few times then drain and hook up the hose to the block drain and back flush it for a few hours
 


strategy for overheating issue. (are any issue)

1) CONFIRM THE COMPLAINT.

If its not boiling the coolant its not overheating.
Over fill of the rad does not cause a overheat condition..

The cylinder head does run hotter than ell I have recorded them over 400 deg's...Normally the block its self does not run hot when every thing is correct in the 160 deg range...

Before you go chasing your tail by the advice posted measure the coolant temp confirm the complaint...
 
Listen to what "old" said about cleaning your radiator fins. If you take an air nozzle and blow out the radiator from the engine side, you'll be surprised to see how much crap will come flying out of those fins. Blow it out from both sides. I also use a water hose with a small nozzle to wash out both sides then again blow out with air.

Doing something like brush hogging will put a lot of crap in those radiator fins. Even if you don't brush hog, when was the last time you cleaned those fins?

If there is no boiling over, how do you know it is over heating?
 
(quoted from post at 14:21:45 06/18/15) Listen to what "old" said about cleaning your radiator fins. If you take an air nozzle and blow out the radiator from the engine side, you'll be surprised to see how much crap will come flying out of those fins. Blow it out from both sides. I also use a water hose with a small nozzle to wash out both sides then again blow out with air.

Doing something like brush hogging will put a lot of crap in those radiator fins. Even if you don't brush hog, when was the last time you cleaned those fins?

If there is no boiling over, how do you know it is over heating?
his last is a very good question, as one might expect the block to normally run up around the boiling point of water or near 200F....not hand holding temperature for sure.
 
to remove the thermostat I have to disconnect the top hose at both ends. Is there a trick to this ? It is pretty stiff, and the top clamp is very difficult to get to.
 
Block hot in minutes is NORMAL, if radiator is not boiling. Need to check at radiator with a
thermometer or infra-red thermometer.
 
(quoted from post at 14:43:07 06/18/15) Block hot in minutes is NORMAL, if radiator is not boiling. Need to check at radiator with a
thermometer or infra-red thermometer.
ight,, if not boiling, very, very carefully loosen cap, very slowly and when sure no pressure, remove & insert meat thermometer.
 
Some times the best bet is to cut the old hose off and get a new hose. Or pull the hood and gas tank off. Me I cut them off and go wit ha new hose.
 
Local guy tells me I have to remove hood and gas tank to get at upper hose. Not possible, I have no help and am elderly. If I just cut the hose will I be able to snivel the top
connection off ?
 
(quoted from post at 15:36:19 06/18/15) Local guy tells me I have to remove hood and gas tank to get at upper hose. Not possible, I have no help and am elderly. If I just cut the hose will I be able to snivel the top
connection off ?
efore I did all that work & spent the $, I would measure temp....you may not have a problem. But, cutting old hose & installing a nice new soft one can be done without hood removal
 
Me when I need to lift something like a hood etc I use my head and rig up a com-a-long or chain hoist etc to do the lifting for me. I have a doctors imposed weight limit of 35lbs so yes I know how it goes
 
(quoted from post at 12:51:02 06/18/15) Me when I need to lift something like a hood etc I use my head and rig up a com-a-long or chain hoist etc to do the lifting for me. I have a doctors imposed weight limit of 35lbs so yes I know how it goes

That's great if one has something over head to hook it to. Not everyone does.
 
I have abandoned the idea of replacing the thermostat/backflushing for now.
I did refill the radiator with vinegar/water and ran for a while and
cleaned the fins. Will repeat several times until I can get a thermometer ( I like my meat still moving ). I am 15 miles from
anything so don't go out often.
 
Most every body has a tree that will work just fine. Done that many many times over the years. Or rig up a 2X4 /2X6 post and beam set up etc
 
I started it up to continue with the vinegar wash, ran great, so I mowed a little. An hour later is was still running great. I has not run that long without dying in a year. Wondering if I need to flush that vinegar out ( 1gallon vinegar to 2 gallons water) right away or let it work for a while. How long ? When I hose the fins I have been putting a plastic bag to shield the distributor etc. Is this necessary ? I am hearing an intermittent tinkling sound, could this be the water pump ? The belt tension looks ok, I am concerned if I loosen the generator bolt I will not be able to tighten it again, it appears to be under a big spring tension.
 
(quoted from post at 14:24:28 06/19/15) Unless you have new gaskets on the cap & coil, yes it is.

Even if you have new gaskets, it's still a good idea. After my son washed out the radiator it wouldn't start even though it had new gaskets. 'Course, he did manage to point the spray nozzle right at the distributor.
 
(quoted from post at 03:44:01 06/20/15) I do not "expect" anything. If you find my newbie ignorance so annoying, just ignore me. I explained why I could not remove the thermostat, etc. and am doing what I am able to do given my limitations.

I am not sure why you are still fudgen with it all you wanted to know is a strategy that appears to not be a problem now they have you dissembling your tractor...

I would have thought by now most of the regulars would at the least learn to ask questions before they try and prove how smart they are by throwing a guess at it and having folks perform maintenance for a unknown unanswered issue...

I don't understand why there draws are in a wade they put you in this position...
 

I never got an answer to this question.

If there is no boiling over, how do you know it is over heating?

You got to have a problem first before you can fix it.
 

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