9N broken post on cut out// ammeter wire.

manya77

Member
replacing the harness, when I removed the lower plug on the cutout the raised plug mount fell apart. It looked just like the one on the top. Plug itself is ok. Can I use washers as spacers to duplicate the missing mount until I can get a new cutout ?

How do I open the teeth holding the ammeter wire without breaking them off so I can replace the hot wire ?


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You need to undo the wire and carefully pull it out. Don't fool around with the feedthru loop. That ammeter is not made any more and if it doesn't work you will need to get one with terminals on the back. Origonal feedthru ammeters can be very costly if available off a carcass machine.
 
(quoted from post at 16:08:05 06/16/15) You need to undo the wire and carefully pull it out. Don't fool around with the feedthru loop. That ammeter is not made any more and if it doesn't work you will need to get one with terminals on the back. Origonal feedthru ammeters can be very costly if available off a carcass machine.
bsolutely as DG says, do NOT disturb that loop! Cut the wire. Can't see what you are talking about on the cut out.
 
If you look at the cutout there is a raised hub on the top at 12 o'clock that a threaded plug attaches the wire to. the raised hub on the bottom at 6 o'clock crumbled flush with the body of the cutout, it no longer exists.
 

The ammeter works. Sorry, I do not understand. please explain
"undo the wire " . If I cut the old hot wire to remove the old harness wiring, how do I run the new hot wire without opening the feed thru, there is a terminal on the end for attachment to resistor.
 
(quoted from post at 16:48:16 06/16/15)
The ammeter works. Sorry, I do not understand. please explain
"undo the wire " . If I cut the old hot wire to remove the old harness wiring, how do I run the new hot wire without opening the feed thru, there is a terminal on the end for attachment to resistor.
ou MUST cut the terminal off of your new wire & attach a new terminal AFTER you feed it through the loop. That loop is part of the magnetic circuit that feeds the meter & must remain in tact. The direction that it passes thru the loop is important, too, as it will determine whether meter correctly indicate charge or discharge.
 

Got it, thanks. Not making excuses, but I am a 70 yr old woman
still learning, and what seems obvious language to those with experience is a foreign language to me.
 
(quoted from post at 18:14:40 06/16/15)
Got it, thanks. Not making excuses, but I am a 70 yr old woman
still learning, and what seems obvious language to those with experience is a foreign language to me.
ot a problem, we all had to at sometime.
 
The best way to feed the big yellow wire thru the original 'loop' inductive ammeter is to take a pair of needle nose pliers and carefully bend the spade connector into a 'U' shape so it will feed thru the loop. If you don't care about originality you can just cut the spade lug end off and replace the ammeter with the newer aftermarket style that uses two screw terminals as mentioned. Original loop ammeters are not expensive at all really. They are often found on ePay as low as ten bucks sometimes. I have a whole coffee can full of them.

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<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
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(reply to post at 15:45:26 06/16/15)
I haven't had any feedback on the cutout situation. any ideas ?
There is a battery support shelf that is superimposed on the cutout
connections. I think.
 
I don't think I would try washers on your cutout, I would be afraid of a short circuit and damaging your generator and battery. If you can post a
photo of it, maybe it will spark some ideas. Pun intended!

Good luck with your project!

Jerry
 
It is the first photo. Posting photo again. The circular hub on the bottom at 6 o'clock disintegrated. The threaded plug is good.



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(quoted from post at 20:32:30 06/16/15) It is the first photo. Posting photo again. The circular hub on the bottom at 6 o'clock disintegrated. The threaded plug is good.



mvphoto22741.jpg
orry, but can't be sure what you are talking about, but guess it might be the insulator material around the terminal. If the metal terminal isn't touching any surrounding metal, you might be temporarily OK in using it.
 
(quoted from post at 19:32:30 06/16/15) It is the first photo. Posting photo again. The circular hub on the bottom at 6 o'clock disintegrated. The threaded plug is good.
If the terminal is still ok and it's just the insulator that broke, you could get creative and make a new insulator out of plastic. I'd probably try cutting one out of a 5 gallon pail.

If all else fails, buy a new cutout.
 
This is the "hub" I have been referring to off the top terminal.
Appears to be rubber. Looking at the replacement cutouts available
i do not understand the attachments (second picture )
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