8N has spark but will not start

Hi Everybody,

I have an 8n that has spark but will not start. It is a 6 volt system, side mount distributor with zenith carb. It has a new battery, plugs, wires, rotor, cap, points and gas.


So I purchased a used 8n a few weeks ago, it was hard to start but ran just fine at first, I’m an ER nurse so I work nights and don’t see the light of day for a good stretch of days and left her parked in the driveway waiting until my next day off. Went to start her and she cranked slow as normal but would not start. I checked the battery and found it was dead (6 volt system) so replaced that and the solenoid but still a no-go. I have replaced the cap, rotor, points (gapped to 0.25), coil and wires due to the wire from the coil grounding out against the distributor; all parts came from Napa except for the wires, which came from TS. I have verified electricity to the plugs with a spark-plug light tester as well as the ¼” plug gap test (yellow/orange spark), but still it will not start. I’ve changed the plugs to autolight 487’s and even tried starter fluid with no luck. I have good gas flow to the carb and am assuming this is a fuel issue but the no start with starter fluid is what is confusing me. All cylinders will blow my finger off verifying some sort of compression, but as of now I am out of ideas. I will eventually swap her over to the 12 volt but that will be a while. I’m off for the next few days so I’m hoping to get her running with some help, thanks to everyone who looks and takes pity on me! Cheers.

haweye........we recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025"; NOT 487's. Understand the difference? 2nd point, to ears used to the whurr of yer Belchfire-V8, the rumpa-rumpa of yer 6-volt starter is disconcerting. 3rd point, CHANGE yer FLOODED sparkies AGAIN!!! Don't throw yer FLOODED sparkies away, just clean'n'dry them, one-atta-time in HOT running engine and save'm fer the next time. (and there will be a next time) 4th point, CAUTION when changing the 3-terminal starter solenoid. The little middle terminal must face the tranny where it is hard to gitt-too. And FINALLY, learn to start yer engine; ignition ON, throttle 1/3, 2-rumpa-rumpas and a QUICK pull on yer spring loaded choke KNOBBY. Simple, eh?.......the amazed Dell who is a 12-volt advocate for the right reasons, and so far I haven't found the right reason fer my eazy starting 6-volt 52-8N

You have a shop manual? I don't see where you said you checked the Timing. Check the Timing and get the right plugs in there and
see how it does then.

Sorry for the typo, I am running AL 437's per everyone's recommendations and have changed the plugs to new ones with no luck. I also have a new key switch in since the old one was just about rusted solid when I first got her. Solenoid is installed correctly with the post towards the block and she does crank. I'm going to try jumping straight to the coil to see if I have something wrong between there and the switch today. I have the shop manual and have the timing set per its' instruction. Upstroke of cylinder 1, peep cover off, advance to 16 degrees, rotor to allign with cylinder 1, etc. Is there a better way to be doing this other then what the shop manual says? Thanks for the feed back so far, I'll be working in her today so I'll report back any progress.

" Is there a better way to be doing this other then what the shop manual says?"

Yes.

Doing it correctly might get it running.

Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer. Loosen the hold down bolt. The distributor oiler should be roughly at the 7 o’clock position & the stud at 9 o’clock. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.

Now check your work (and the dynamic timing) w/ a light.

If it won't idle below 500 rpm (400 is better) don't bother w/ a light.

If it idles ok, make 3 marks w/ chalk or white paint on the flywheel:

4*
10*
17*

Start the engine.

At idle, the light should flash & the marker should line up exactly at 4* if you did the static timing correctly.

If not, loosen the distributor & turn it until the marks line up. It should take very little adjustment.

Once you've got that done, increase the engine speed to 1200 rpms. The light should flash & the marker should line up w/ the 10* mark. Then, increase the rpms to 2000 & look for the marker to align w/ the 17* mark.

Close counts on the advanced timing. A degree or 2 either way is ok. But, no movement or 5* or more off means you have an advance weight problem. You don't adjust the distributor to fix that.
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