9n Electronic Ignition / and Split

Hi Folks, I'm pretty green to this posting stuff, but here goes...Will this work as the diagram indicates AND does it need the Ballast Resistor ?
While I'm at it..Did I mention this is for a '42 9N..anyway can I split any two 9n's from '39-'42 as so I can get a 'working engine' with a 'working hydraulic system' ?

hope I didn't foget anything

Thanks a bunch,
Dwayne

Dwayne..........6-or-12 volts, the squarecan coil needs the MANDATORY "ballast" resistor. Yer paying $150 fer a transistor to replace a $20 set of points that need changing every 5-yrs. Good choice. And iff'n you still use the original 6-volt squarecan coil you will also need a 12-to-6 volt converting resistor. They do make a modern 12-volt squarecan coil ...but... its NOT MARKED except on the box. You do know ittza 15-min job to remove the weird 4-nipple front mount dizzy and change/adjust the points (0.015") on the kitchen table, don't you? Just un-snapple the capple and letter dangle and remove the 2-bolts and walk. Installation is a reversal of the removal ...except... finger start the 2-bolts and then install the rotor. Now rotate the rotor until the OFF-SET tang falls into the OFF-SET grove in the camshaft. Now tighten the 2-bolts and re-snapple yer capple. Simple, eh? ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

If the coil has at least 3 ohms resistance you don't need a resistor...

If your switch has a ACC terminal you can ditch the alt warning lamp and run the switch side of the alt on the ACC side of the switch...

If its 12V you can ditch the amp meter and use a more useful voltmeter... Amp meters are for dummy's are for those with a sub-par charging system that they must keep a eye on ALL the time and make adjustments too ...

Dwayne,
Welcome to YT.
We have some. Very good, very smart
electric gurus on this board.
Some of them could probably wire a
tractor with their eyes closed, in the
dark, with one hand - in 20 below
temps no less.
Dell is one of those.
But knowing Everything about electrics
does not make you smart in
everything..
Dell will rant and froth about
spending a few bucks for EI when cheap
points will do but has no qualms about
buying spendy Scotch whiskey when
cheap rot gut will also do.
Take his advice when he tells you how
to wire stuff.
But spend your own money how You like

(quoted from post at 22:02:31 06/01/15) Dwayne..........6-or-12 volts, the squarecan coil needs the MANDATORY "ballast" resistor. Yer paying $150 fer a transistor to replace a $20 set of points that need changing every 5-yrs. Good choice. And iff'n you still use the original 6-volt squarecan coil you will also need a 12-to-6 volt converting resistor. They do make a modern 12-volt squarecan coil ...but... its NOT MARKED except on the box. You do know ittza 15-min job to remove the weird 4-nipple front mount dizzy and change/adjust the points (0.015") on the kitchen table, don't you? Just un-snapple the capple and letter dangle and remove the 2-bolts and walk. Installation is a reversal of the removal ...except... finger start the 2-bolts and then install the rotor. Now rotate the rotor until the OFF-SET tang falls into the OFF-SET grove in the camshaft. Now tighten the 2-bolts and re-snapple yer capple. Simple, eh? ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

Click to expand...

I'm all smiles..Well Dell I guess I left more than a few things out..first of all, thank you all for all your sharing of knowledge and 'humor'(it sure brightens the day). well back to it...All the parts in the diagram(and the ones I'm trying to avoid) are all accounted for as they come with the two 9N's,(both were previously converted to 12v and one of them had the EI..) all except the new solenoid which is here beside me on my desk..and yes I've already done the kitchen thingy too(no kiddin)... what we're trying to get to is a running tractor with the parts we have..and don't get me wrong I do indeed like the part about 'original' but I think we've come a bit past that..

Hobo, OK, which post do I check for the 3 ohms on the coil..across the +/- ? and the ACC on the ignition can go directly to the #1 on the Alt.(I never saw that coming) If I never had the warning light, how would I know the system wasn't charging, say if there was a problem with the altenator before there was a voltage drop ? or wood eye ?

UltraDog...I've never posted anything but one picture in the Help Identify Gallery a year or so back, but I've done a fair bit of reading on here and I almost feel like I know Dell already
and ...

yes Dell I have what I think is a sort of rheostat that came on one of the tractors, that was the pic I posted last year sometime.. Hey Guys..thanks for all your dedication to the 'no so' knowledgeable sorts..

Dwayne

So here's an updated sketch as per Hobo's advice..

One more thing..." what about splitting the two tractors, is there anything I should be aware of ? "

Dwayne

(quoted from post at 23:15:14 06/01/15)
One more thing..." what about splitting the two tractors, is there anything I should be aware of ? "

Dwayne

Click to expand...

f you use voltmeter, you want it fed by switched IGN or else it will be draining battery 24/7.

across the +/-

A voltmeter will indicate charging voltage.. How do you know its charging you read the numbers...

Whut JMOR said... The positive lead of the voltmeter to the ign side of the switch and the negative lead of the volt meter to chassis ground...

ign to ground on volt meter.

also see that you are not using the ford safety interlocked start switch and instead are using a solenoid.... make sure you don't run yourself or someone else over!

(quoted from post at 09:46:36 06/02/15)

also see that you are not using the ford safety interlocked start switch and instead are using a solenoid.... make sure you don't run yourself or someone else over!

Click to expand...

Or maybe add a simple and inexpensive "senior moment" prevention device along with that new switch ;-)

TOH

clutch cutout?

Could work.. assuming hte clutch NEVER sticks.. That's why i like the 'not in gear' method. then you just have to worry about a pilot bearing seizing.

(quoted from post at 10:43:06 06/02/15) clutch cutout?

Could work.. assuming hte clutch NEVER sticks.. That's why i like the 'not in gear' method. then you just have to worry about a pilot bearing seizing.

Click to expand...

I can report that in the 25 years I have owned it the clutch on that Kubota has never stuck. Can't say the same for the switch ;-)

TOH

Of all my tractors, My NAA had a stuck clutch once, when I left it in the shed a couple years after I got my 660 ( and the naa steering box needed a rebuild ).. it unstuck with miimal persuasion and been fine since.

My 850 with hoe will ocassionally get a 'sticky' clutch, but not stuck. just bump the rpms and it pops loose after setting.

hey Jerry.........I'm a Bourbon man. I've got bottles of 12-yo Chevis Regal Scotch in the blue velvet bag sittin' on the bar along with a 26-yo Ambassadors Scotch. ......Dell, (hic)

...So, anybody wanna comment on Splitting the two 9N's ?
One has good hydraulics and no compression..
and the other has a good-fair running engine and
no hydraulics.
I almost forgot...warning, with no safety mechanisms installed.
[MAKE SURE SHES IN NEUTRAL]

Of course I can't advocate doing this here as now days I'd probably get sued.
But...
My go to tractor is a diesel and there is NO wireing on it.
None.
Except for the + - battery cables.
So for 4 years now I've been using a lynch pin to short across from the battery lug to the start lug on the solenoid.
Standing on the side of the tractor.
I never park the tractor in gear. I park it in neutral with the parking brake on.
I always keep a few extra lynch pins looped over the shift lever. Keeps them handy there.
So when I grab a lynch pin off the shifter to start it I also double check that it's out of gear.
If a guy keeps his wits about him he will be ok.

(quoted from post at 23:45:18 06/02/15) Of course I can't advocate doing this here as now days I'd probably get sued.
But...
My go to tractor is a diesel and there is NO wireing on it.
None.
Except for the + - battery cables.
So for 4 years now I've been using a lynch pin to short across from the battery lug to the start lug on the solenoid.
Standing on the side of the tractor.
[b:bb5fe40093][color=red:bb5fe40093]I never park the tractor in gear[/color:bb5fe40093][/b:bb5fe40093]. I park it in neutral with the parking brake on.
I always keep a few extra lynch pins looped over the shift lever. Keeps them handy there.
So when I grab a lynch pin off the shifter to start it I also double check that it's out of gear.
If a guy keeps his wits about him he will be ok.

Click to expand...

me neither
I have a wide assortment of brands.
Some have neutral safety switches, most don't.
I have big square rocks and logs everywhere to kick in front of tires when I park em. (I don't trust brakes either)
To all the people that say they will never forget it's in gear...you will...
check the shifter, rock a back tire to see if the fan moves.
(I don't trust shifters, transmissions, clutches either)
I think I have trust issues...........

None of my farmalls have a safety lock out from the factory its my policy to set in the seat when starting it... Tractor tires take on all comers...

If it has a safety lock out and it works are can be made to work it should be used... I don't see a valid excuse for not using it...

(quoted from post at 23:45:18 06/02/15) Of course I can't advocate doing this here as now days I'd probably get sued.
But...
My go to tractor is a diesel and there is NO wireing on it.
None.
Except for the + - battery cables.
So for 4 years now I've been using a lynch pin to short across from the battery lug to the start lug on the solenoid.
Standing on the side of the tractor.
I never park the tractor in gear. I park it in neutral with the parking brake on.
I always keep a few extra lynch pins looped over the shift lever. Keeps them handy there.
So when I grab a lynch pin off the shifter to start it I also double check that it's out of gear.
If a guy keeps his wits about him he will be ok.

Click to expand...

I hear ya UD and I wasn't pushing this either, I just merely wanted to know if it would work wired this way, and sure enough the Gurus from YT came to my rescue, and I appreciate it very much.
I remember the first time I got on my brother's '54 Harris Ferguson(I think)to haul some tree length firewood while he was doing the cutting. I remember he said very distinctly.." Don't take your foot off the clutch"...well that went in one ear and out the other..I never got 10 ft. and the butt end got caught on a stump..the thing rared up to about 45 degrees before the good Lord got my foot back on the clutch(cause I don't think I had the witts to do it)...it was close to say the least. I learned a very good lesson that day.
On another note...
I still can't understand though why nobody wants to comment on the splitting the tractor question..or maybe it's the no-brainer of the century(or Taboo)...or am I posting that particular question in the wrong place.. :?

Folks just focused on the electrics and maybe forgot about the split.
Anyway, Any 9/2/8N engine will bolt right up to any transmission.
I started with a 2N that had a good, strong engine in it.
But I wanted the other features of an 8N. So I bought a smokey 8N and swapped the engines in them. It was pretty easy actually. Both were front mount distributers.
I do recall I had to swap the little brass Tee in the oil line but don't remember why now. Maybe the generators had to be switched.
I started bright and early in the morning and had them both running by the end of the day.
Didn't have air wrenches then either - all by hand. No big deal.
Then kept the good running 8N and sold the smokey 2N.
Some folks are scrupulous about serial numbers, casting codes and all that.
That's fine.
I never cared about that stuff at all. The diesel tractor I mentioned above is built out of parts from at least 15 different tractors. It's a Johney Cash special but it runs good.

(quoted from post at 13:44:55 06/03/15) Folks just focused on the electrics and maybe forgot about the split.
Anyway, Any 9/2/8N engine will bolt right up to any transmission.
I started with a 2N that had a good, strong engine in it.
But I wanted the other features of an 8N. So I bought a smokey 8N and swapped the engines in them. It was pretty easy actually. Both were front mount distributers.
I do recall I had to swap the little brass Tee in the oil line but don't remember why now. Maybe the generators had to be switched.
I started bright and early in the morning and had them both running by the end of the day.
Didn't have air wrenches then either - all by hand. No big deal.
Then kept the good running 8N and sold the smokey 2N.
Some folks are scrupulous about serial numbers, casting codes and all that.
That's fine.
I never cared about that stuff at all. The diesel tractor I mentioned above is built out of parts from at least 15 different tractors. It's a Johney Cash special but it runs good.

Click to expand...

Thanks so much..you gimme what I was looking for when you said "Any 9/2/8N engine will bolt right up to any transmission."
Anyway..for all it's worth, one's a '41 and the others a '43..
Now I can get back to it..thanks again to you and ALL the YT People...yer better than YouTube!