New clutch will not disengage

I bought a Ford NAA 700 today which had a clutch that would not disengage. I had to jam it into first at idle to get it going. I drove it home and split it with a friend who is a mechanic. The guy I bought it from said he had the clutch replaced less than 100 hours ago, and it barely lasted at all before it wouldn’t disengage.

When we pulled the pressure plate off, it smelled burnt and was discolored. There was still pad left on the clutch plate. There was oil all over the pressure plate assembly. We replaced the input shaft seal, pressure plate, clutch plate and throw-out bearing and reassembled. We cannot get the clutch to disengage even when adjusted all the way out.

We did some research online, and read about guys putting washers between the flywheel and the pressure plate. We went back out and pulled the starter, and could just get our hand inside to feel the distance between the throw-out bearing and the fingers on the pressure plate. We could put a finger between the throw-out bearing and the fingers. Not even close to touching. When we used a pliers to turn the clutch arm until it was physically hitting the clutch pedal linkage, the throw-out bearing was just coming into contact with the pressure plate fingers.
Is it possible that the flywheel was previously installed backwards? Is that even physically possible? It seems like if it was reversed, the face that the pressure plate attaches to would be closer to the throw-out bearing. We are out of ideas. It seems like it would take a lot of washers to get the fingers even close to the throw-out bearing!
 
NAA or 700 two different models of tractor so hard to help with out you knowing what you have. Are you sure you have the clutch disk in right. You can install it 2 ways and one will work and one will not learned that the hard way 40 plus years ago on a GMC pick up I had. By the way the NAA was made only in 1954 the 700 series came out in 1955 and was made till 1957 and the 700 series was a row crop and most had a trike front end
 

When replacing a clutch, before reassembly it is good to measure the distance from the bell housing face to the face of the release bearing, and compare it to the measurement out from the mating surface on the back of the motor to the contact point for the clutch fingers so that you know in advance that they are just shy of touching.
 
(quoted from post at 21:30:48 05/27/15) NAA or 700 two different models of tractor so hard to help with out you knowing what you have. Are you sure you have the clutch disk in right. You can install it 2 ways and one will work and one will not learned that the hard way 40 plus years ago on a GMC pick up I had. By the way the NAA was made only in 1954 the 700 series came out in 1955 and was made till 1957 and the 700 series was a row crop and most had a trike front end

The front of the hood says Golden Jubilee Model. The front piece has EAE6015-0 stamped in it. The Middle piece has NAA700BB stamped (this is where we got the idea it was a 700...could be wrong?) The back piece has NAA 4024 6 stamped in it. The front frame that the front wheels attach to is stamped 8N3009A. Maybe someone didn't like the trike front end of the 700? This could definitely be a Frankenstein.

We don't think we installed the clutch plate backwards. Installing it the other way had the clutch plate approx 1/4 inch from the flywheel. We thought the proper installation should have the clutch plate touching the flywheel. Either way, this would not change the distance from the throw-out bearings to the pressure plate fingers, right? Since the pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel.
 

That would have been a good idea. We will do that when we split it again today. However, if the measurement shows they are far apart, what is the fix? Is it shim washers between the flywheel and the pressure plate? Thanks!
 
Fordnaanewguy,Check the throwout bearing fork where it attaches to the clutch through shaft for it having a loose or worn bolt,being loose on the shaft or worn hole through the shaft.That will cause the fork not to move far enough forward to release the clutch.
 
The NAA was made in 1953 and 1954, not just in 1954 as Old states. They called the NAA made in 1953 the Golden Jubilee due to the 50 year anniversary. You probably have the 1953 model. He has argued this point for years.
 
Yes an will keep doing so since it is fact an that I was told by a ford dealer many many many years ago and the poster in his dealer ship even said so
 
Yes an will keep doing so since it is fact an that I was told by a ford dealer many many many years ago and the poster in his dealer ship even said so

The NAA was made in 1953 and 1954! That is a FACT!
 
(quoted from post at 15:34:12 05/28/15)
Yes an will keep doing so since it is fact an that I was told by a ford dealer many many many years ago and the poster in his dealer ship even said so

The NAA was made in 1953 and 1954! That is a FACT!

So glad you two could have this moment together, but could we get back to my clutch? :)

Seriously, I found an 84 year old gentlemen who used to be the lead mechanic on 8Ns for Farmer's Union for years. He came over and saw in about two seconds what we had overlooked. There was a crack underneath the arm that drives the fork linkage. You couldn't see it from top, front or back, but if you got underneath and looked up, there it was. Hard to believe that small a crack caused the trouble, but we closed the crack, welded it, put it back together and it works!

Sorry old, gonna have to go with 1951 8N on this, as I have done a lot of research in the past couple of days. It looks to me like there were NAAs manufactured in late 1952, 1953 and 1954. Either way, it sure is nice to have a working clutch!
 

So glad you two could have this moment together, but could we get back to my clutch?

That's a good'N will have to remember that... :D

Some should not be allowed to post on the net... Get my drift...

Real experience is hard to beat... Good catch by your old guy...

I often wounder about folks that shim a clutch cover as there last resort, its not a fix and takes a real dumb arse to even post it as his fix...
 
(quoted from post at 19:06:55 05/28/15)
So glad you two could have this moment together, but could we get back to my clutch?

That's a good'N will have to remember that... :D

Some should not be allowed to post on the net... Get my drift...

Real experience is hard to beat... Good catch by your old guy...

I often wounder about folks that shim a clutch cover as there last resort, its not a fix and takes a real dumb arse to even post it as his fix...

Hobo, do you measure out or back from mating surfaces like I suggested when doing a clutch so that you know before putting it together how close you are?
 


I have devised several ways to check it. Its always a good thing to check a know good one for reference.. It would suprise folks how little it takes to release a clutch you only need .050 clearance at the clutch plate to cover for full release...

Before any clutch work is preformed on any thing car truck are what ever its always best to check clutch pedal/linkage operation first... The pedal is the master the release bearing is the slave the slave will only do the work the master commands know more are no less...

Once in awhile you will find a issue with the master like broken mounting bracket are surface and a linkage issue...

I always mate the trans up install a few bolts and check clutch operation before I move on...

You are putting thought into it its what separates the real deal from a wanna be internet mechanic... The post about the guy that is looking for a book so he can become a mechanic I hate to tell him but he's got to put his hands on it then read all he can about it...

Folks can write a book but don't process the skill to eliminate one thing at a time sometimes having to much info is a bad thing...

In my arsenal I have a few prized books like U-dod I have read the VW book its a good one for a P.O.S. VW.

The one that got me thru my early years was Chiltons 1970/83 Illustrated Diagnostic Manual... Its loaded with GO/NO GO step by step flow charts

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/1970-83-Chiltons-Illustrated-Diagnostic-Manual-/350633126679
 

I have that same manual. Picked it up about 20 years back at a used book store. I remember picking it up and read it for about an hour before I paid the $5 for it. Simple and it steers you step by step. I also found an emissions manual. Same look feel and color.

Still sitting on my bookshelf in my garage...of the house the X-wife lives in.
 
(quoted from post at 04:17:22 05/30/15)
I have that same manual. Picked it up about 20 years back at a used book store. I remember picking it up and read it for about an hour before I paid the $5 for it. Simple and it steers you step by step. I also found an emissions manual. Same look feel and color.

Still sitting on my bookshelf in my garage...of the house the X-wife lives in.

This another one that help me much. Its very outdated tho...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OXYGEN-SENS...IR-CHEVY-FORD-CHRYSLER-DOMESTIC-/161050268222

I have several more like it for Foreign cars..
 

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