- Thread starter Mdparrott
- Start date
Yes, but most involve at least removing it from the tractor,
if not disassembling it all together, to apply heat.
If you don't need to take it apart, slowly but thoroughly heating
it in hot water and removing it while it's warm will usually work.
Obvious precautions for heating anything containing gas/fumes.
if not disassembling it all together, to apply heat.
If you don't need to take it apart, slowly but thoroughly heating
it in hot water and removing it while it's warm will usually work.
Obvious precautions for heating anything containing gas/fumes.
No, trying to remove the 7/16 plug at the bottom of the carb to check fuel flow.
Royse, i'm thinking a carb rebuild may be in order. The tractor runs great (normally), but started surging on me after I adjusted the throttle to governor linkage. Was idling too high, so adjusted the linkage arm on the throttle.
I've checked the air vent, fuel flow at the sediment bowl, screen and checked for water and contaminants. No luck so far. Can't get the bolt out of the carb bottom to check for fuel flow there.
Tractor smooths out and runs good at about half choke. Looks like it's running lean, maybe time for a carb rebuild?
Ideas welcomed...and needed. Thx.
Royse, i'm thinking a carb rebuild may be in order. The tractor runs great (normally), but started surging on me after I adjusted the throttle to governor linkage. Was idling too high, so adjusted the linkage arm on the throttle.
I've checked the air vent, fuel flow at the sediment bowl, screen and checked for water and contaminants. No luck so far. Can't get the bolt out of the carb bottom to check for fuel flow there.
Tractor smooths out and runs good at about half choke. Looks like it's running lean, maybe time for a carb rebuild?
Ideas welcomed...and needed. Thx.
Yes, I tried. I got my owners manual out and read up on carburetor adjustments. Manual said to start with the main jet screw one turn out. I counted six turns out on my carb when I ran it back in. Didn't notice any difference in how the engine ran regardless of where the screw set.
Probably explains why she was running so rich.
better too rich than too lean."Think it might be in the linkage?"
You could always try adjusting it back to see.
Unless you bent it, then it might break.
IMHO, if your main jet was turned out 6 turns and it ran, the
carb needs some attention or you have an air leak somewhere.
Have you checked for air leaks using an unlit propane torch or
some carb cleaner or similar? Cheap and easy to try.
You could always try adjusting it back to see.
Unless you bent it, then it might break.
IMHO, if your main jet was turned out 6 turns and it ran, the
carb needs some attention or you have an air leak somewhere.
Have you checked for air leaks using an unlit propane torch or
some carb cleaner or similar? Cheap and easy to try.
Thanks. That's the route I'm going. Pulled the carb tonight, took it apart and have it soaking in carb cleaner. Will put it back together tomorrow.
I could here an air leak when it surged. Found a bushing severely worn on the throttle shaft. A lot if play.
Thx for the part number.
I hate to be a negative type person but if you're just going to
soak it overnight and stick the parts that come in that kit into
it, you are probably wasting your time and money.
You need to do a lot more cleaning than just soaking it.
There are no bushings in that kit or most others for that matter.
I don't think that one even comes with a new throttle shaft.
If it doesn't, then it wont do much to take up play.
A new seal around the shaft might work for a little while,
but the play will just wear the new seal out in short order.
On the bright side it may, in the short term, prove that the
play around the shaft is/was the problem.
Take the time to clean all the passages out with something
that will bend around through them like and old banjo string.
Compressed air and spray carb cleaner also helps, but doesn't
get it all by itself. Especially if you don't know where it should
come out when you spray it into an open hole.
Here are some drawings of the passages. JMOR and GB in MT
get credit for the pictures.
Thanks for all the info and pictures. Here's an update:
Soaked the carb for 24 hrs in Berryman's carb cleaner. Took it out and brushed it clean with mineral spirits. Used a torch tip cleaner on all ports and holes and followed them through. Then took choke cleaner to each port, hole and opening, followed up by compressed air.
Reviewing Royse's diagram, that's what I got last night.
Picked up a repair kit and a new main adjustment needle from my local dealer.
Found a lot of wear on the throttle shaft and no seal (go figure). Also found a rubber seal on the choke shaft instead of the fiber seal. Replaced all parts, seals and installed new throttle shaft.
New throttle shaft fits with a lot less play. However, I have questions about the bushings. I found a brass tube in the throttle shaft carb housing but it looked home made. With it in the carb I couldn't install the rubber seal. Without it, the seal went right in and tightened up. My parts book doesn't show a brass bushing.
What am I missing, gents?
Last part of report... Had to tap the carb with a hammer handle to get the new float needle to release. Tractor started and ran as good as it ever had with no more audible air leak. My air leak was around the throttle arm wear and no seal.
Soaked the carb for 24 hrs in Berryman's carb cleaner. Took it out and brushed it clean with mineral spirits. Used a torch tip cleaner on all ports and holes and followed them through. Then took choke cleaner to each port, hole and opening, followed up by compressed air.
Reviewing Royse's diagram, that's what I got last night.
Picked up a repair kit and a new main adjustment needle from my local dealer.
Found a lot of wear on the throttle shaft and no seal (go figure). Also found a rubber seal on the choke shaft instead of the fiber seal. Replaced all parts, seals and installed new throttle shaft.
New throttle shaft fits with a lot less play. However, I have questions about the bushings. I found a brass tube in the throttle shaft carb housing but it looked home made. With it in the carb I couldn't install the rubber seal. Without it, the seal went right in and tightened up. My parts book doesn't show a brass bushing.
What am I missing, gents?
Last part of report... Had to tap the carb with a hammer handle to get the new float needle to release. Tractor started and ran as good as it ever had with no more audible air leak. My air leak was around the throttle arm wear and no seal.
Was it a "tube" or a "cup"? I'll get a picture of what I'm thinking.
There is a brass cup that is lightly press fit to hold the seal in.
There is also a brass tube meant to be used as a bushing to
compensate for a worn out bore. If it came out easily, likely it
was the cup.
In either case, I'm glad to hear you got it back up and running!
There is a brass cup that is lightly press fit to hold the seal in.
There is also a brass tube meant to be used as a bushing to
compensate for a worn out bore. If it came out easily, likely it
was the cup.
In either case, I'm glad to hear you got it back up and running!
(quoted from post at 18:34:46 05/29/15) Was it a "tube" or a "cup"? I'll get a picture of what I'm thinking.
There is a brass cup that is lightly press fit to hold the seal in.
There is also a brass tube meant to be used as a bushing to
compensate for a worn out bore. If it came out easily, likely it
was the cup.
In either case, I'm glad to hear you got it back up and running!
Me too.
It was a tube. About 1/8th inch long, looked like a tube someone cut off. It was the same diameter as the shaft hole cast into the carb. I couldn't see what it did. Couldn't put the seal in the carb with it in there.
On the choke shaft found a cup, installed backwards.
Thanks again for the help.
You're welcome. Glad to help when I can.(quoted from post at 23:30:45 05/29/15)(quoted from post at 18:34:46 05/29/15) Was it a "tube" or a "cup"? I'll get a picture of what I'm thinking.
There is a brass cup that is lightly press fit to hold the seal in.
There is also a brass tube meant to be used as a bushing to
compensate for a worn out bore. If it came out easily, likely it
was the cup.
In either case, I'm glad to hear you got it back up and running!
Me too.
It was a tube. About 1/8th inch long, looked like a tube someone cut off. It was the same diameter as the shaft hole cast into the carb. I couldn't see what it did. Couldn't put the seal in the carb with it in there.
On the choke shaft found a cup, installed backwards.
Thanks again for the help.
The cup on your choke shaft probably isn't a big deal.
More of a dust seal than anything and only used when choking.
I'm out of these bushings at the moment so I borrowed a
picture from the seller's website. The idea is to ream the
original hole if needed, install this guy and ream the inside to
fit the throttle shaft. Apparently this may have been a dealer
fix at some point. I've seen quite a few of them in carbs that
work fine with no seal. But they were in tight enough that they
would have needed to be driven/pressed out.
Just thought it might be similar to what you found.
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