8n still doesn't run right

WarnerT

Member
12v front mount 8n....

I've had problems getting my 8n to run right every since I replaced the head gasket. Trouble starting, loss of power, stalling out, etc.

I had good compression when I put the head back on. Since then I've replaced the points and checked them multiple times and cleaned out the carb. I rebuilt the carb and dist less than a year ago so I didn't do a full rebuild on either.

I'm about to give up and buy something newer becuase I've spent too much time trying to figure this thing out and my wife is starting to hate me for it. I'm wondering if anyone lives around me that would be willing to help me out? It would be really helpful if I could borrow some parts that are known to be good. Mainly a carb, dist and coil.

I'm near Eaton Rapids, MI. I think I remember a couple guys being near me from past posts, maybe Royce? If anyone is interested shoot me an email. [email protected]. Thanks a lot.
 
Warner.........ummmm, yer description sounds like "weak sparkies". While replacing yer head gasket, has nuttin' to do with sparkies, you still haffta replace yer sparkie wires. Check and make certain you have them installed correctly, 1,2,4,3 front-to-back. Yer 4-nipple capple usually hazz the numbers molded into the cap. 2nd cause of weak sparkies is believe-it or not, is BAD sparkies. We recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. 3rd cause of weak sparkies is BAD points. While the 4-nipple dizzy is designed to be removed from the tractor and points (0.015") replaced on the kitchen table, the 1st thing I'd do is "polish" the INVISIBLE corrosion from between the points with the corner of a $1-bill and try that fer sparkie misses. Just un-snapple yer capple and manually open the points and stick the corner of the $1-bill between the points and pull. Simple, eh? ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
Dell, I'm definitely focusing back to the ignition even though I've replaced the points and the plugs, and did the dollar bill thing. (well I used a brown paper bag)

I also replaced the bushing in the dist but it didn't go in very easily and actually collapsed to the point that the shaft would no longer fit. After a whole lot of sanding I got it to fit back in and it seems to spin freely with no side play. It also passed the continuity test with the points open/closed. I'm going to double check this now it's been running some more.

I've only replaced one of the wires but even that wire is giving me inconsistent or no spark sometimes.

Royse contacted me through email and generously offered to stop by sometime to take a look. I'll post back if/when I find the solution.
 
I think the problem is with the replaced bushing! Is it off center enough that you cannot set the points correctly to all four lobes?
 
Last night I pulled all the plugs and re-checked compression. I still have between 90-100 on all cylinders.

I also pulled the Dist and coil again. Checked the shaft on the dist and I can't make any sideplay. I did re-adjust the points slightly to widen the gap to .015 but once I had it set there was no variation between the gap when they opened and closed. I also made sure to clean off the invisible corrosion but I used a twenty instead of a dollar.... for good measure.

I also put a ohmmeter on the coil, it read right around 1.0 Ohm from the threaded screw on top to the pigtail on bottom. Somewhere I remember reading it should be around 3 ohm for a 12v coil. I also notice that the coil has a "Ford" script on it which leads me to believe it might be the original 6v coil.

From my understanding I would need an additional resistor to keep using the 6v coil since mine was converted to 12v? Right now I just have the switch running accross the white, 2 terminal ballast resistor and then straight into the coil. Could this be the root of my problems?
 

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