Ford 8N wiring

Hey guys,

Im new to the forums and I have found a lot of interesting stuff. I just purchased a 1948 Ford 8N tractor in the winter and am restoring it, bit by bit. So, I've replaced all of the main wires and am
starting to work on the lights. I couldn't find a set of schematics that would completely address all of the changes and rewires that have happened over the years, with newly designed parts. So, just to
keep track of it all, I worked up my own. I tried to make it make a bit more sense when going back in or out of the tractor, a little more true to location.

One of the things that I noticed was that my terminal block was completely unused in the tractor and because I wasn't sure (and everything was working just fine), I didnt hook it back up.

But, my question is about the ignition, which could no tbe answered by the guys selling me the part. I cant use the original ignition. Someone made the hole too large and without fixing the hole, I cant
go back to the original ignition. I dont mind this. I just replaced what was there, which was a 3 post ignition switch. http://www.link_disallowed/ABC400-ignition-switch--key-switch

On this part, there is a terminal post for the battery, for the ignition and for the accessories. I was wondering if the accessory post is live while the tractor is running, so if I hooked up the light
switch wire to the accessory terminal post (rather than the ignition post), can I use the lights while driving or is this meant more for things like a cigarette lighter?

Any help or errors that you notice in my schematics is highly appreciated. Thanks guys.

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A lot depends on the switch it self. Some the Acc. terminal will be hot in 2 positions and on others only in the acc position. Only way to be sure is check it with a volt meter or test light

Images for JMOR 48 Ford 8N wiring -------------- High light this and you should see something you like.

Marco........re: ignition switch accy position. Thats fer things like yer 8-track when yer out neckkin' with yer girlfriend. The accy position is NOT strong enuff fer cigarette lighter. Almost all headlites'n'tailites are separately switched (usually a combination push-pull switch) Problem is they ain't WATERPROOF and mountin' them on the dashboard where its convenient to operate, they will need replacement in a short time. Ya wanna push-pull lite switch? Gitt a marine-grade switch from boat store. Do NOT wire them thru yer ignition switch either, it ain't strong enuff. I don't care how they do it in yer BelchFire-V8, 'cuz its gotts IDIOT lites too.

And FYI.....yer 1948 8N has the weird 4-nipple front mount dizzy. Points are gapped 0.015 OFF the tractor on the kitchen table. We also recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025". And the weird front mount dizzy needs the MANDATORY "infamous" ballast resistor. NO ARGUE!!! (otherwize yer squarecan ignition coil will go BAD in about 1-hr of running) .......HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister and electrician

Hey Dell.......did ya ever do your road trip??

naw, got side tracked by a leaky foot and ended up in the horsepittal fer week. All I know izz my boot got full of "water", except it ain't been raining. Seems I got "diabetes" and am now supposta be takin' insulin. Plannin' to go this fall when it cools off. My MGB sports car doesn't have air conditioning except at 70mph. .......Dell

Feel better friend....remember,,,I can make it so you can fly if you want too!!