Bought 2 8N's!

wasatch · May 22, 2015

Hello all,

Just introducing myself. I live near Salt Lake City, Utah. This week I purchased a front distributor 8N that runs great. Still 6V, came with a blade and tires are great. $1800 in my neck of the woods.

Also Got a side dist 8N that doesn't run and needs front tires for $500.

I'm excited to slowly restore these. The plan is to currently restore the side-dist while working with the running machine. I'll only be using it with a box blade to grade some roads / spread gravel.

I know people love pics, so here they are. The side dist is still in the trailer so I could only get the front end.

I apologize in advance for asking lots of stupid questions. Thanks all.

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Royse · May 22, 2015

wasatch, welcome to the forum!
Hopefully the tractors work out well for you.
The pictures hurt my neck though, so I turned them
right-side-up for you. Hope you don't mind!

Dell (WA) · May 22, 2015

wasatch.........re: front tires.....whether 16-in or 19-in, buy USED motorcycle tires and NEW innertubes 'cuz yer N-rims are NOT fer tubeless tires. (they leak) Inflate to 26-psi. Yer rear tires whether loaded or un-loaded, inflate to 12-psi. 'nutter thang, whether 9N-2N-8N, common replacement parts are relatively in-expensive and readily available from our host, Yesterdays-Tractors. While ittza little too early to be thinkin' paint, 2N's came from the factory all-over grey; some times called industrial gray, battleship grey, forest service gray. Me? I say paint it enny color that pleases you ...except... yellow'n'green. As I explained to the ex-wife, it keeps me outta trubble and away from wild wimmens........Dell

wasatch · May 22, 2015

Thanks for the replies already.

The fronts on the side-dist 8N are 5.00-15 and the cheapest I found on them was on ebay with tubes. Those were my first, of what will probably be many, purchases for these tractors.

Any good shop manuals for these things? Looking for things like torque values, tips/tricks, etc.

Caryc · May 22, 2015

I can see why the side distributor one doesn't run, the ignition wires are not long enough. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

HCooke · May 23, 2015

"Any good shop manuals for these things? Looking for things like torque values, tips/tricks, etc. "

I&T FO4 manual. Sold on this site.

wasatch · May 23, 2015

Tim,

Thanks for the book recommendations. All have been purchased.

I'll get a new battery and test the compression on the non-running tractor...hopefully the block is OK and it's just a few easy fixes to get her fired up. We'll see.

What 12v battery do you guys recommend?

(quoted from post at 06:10:58 05/23/15) Sounds like you got a deal. The side mount though -did you look to se if there were any visible block cracks or other defects? I always am skeptical when I see missing parts on a tractor as I suspect the owner has started to pimp it out due to a bad block. I would strongly suggest, especially if you are new the tractor world, to purchase some essential manuals that will greatly improve your understanding of operating and maintaining your machines. First, an original or copy of the operating manual is good start. Try to get one for your model year. If you have a side mount distributor, no sense buying a front mount manual, but in your case you will want both. Next is the I&T Publishing F-04 Manual -another valuable piece to have on hand. It contains many self-help procedures on do-it-yourself features. Then there is the MPC -Master Parts Catalog. There is a complete listing of virtually every part and its number in it along with exploded views. Today the September 1952 MPC is sold as a repro but it contains all the info for every N including the NAA tractor. Shown but not needed as much as the previous ones mentioned is the lime-green Service Manual for Dealers Mechanics. It has some good info in it too. Finally, there is a copy of the Dennis Carpenter Tractor catalog. Dennis makes exact-as-original parts and sells them as well as standard TISCO parts. You can get most any part from him or just 8n's too. Be aware of all safety hazards. Know that you can only pull from below the rear axle. Many newbies go at it gung ho trying to pull stumps and such and end up flipping themselves over or breaking their tractors or both. Read these manuals daily.

Tim Daley(MI)

Tim PloughNman Daley RIP · May 23, 2015

I have been using Interstate batteries for over 15 years with no complaints -5 years minimum life. I use to buy the cheap Wally World or TSC brands but their lifespan would be about two years. DEKA is a good brand as well and will last a long time. Get an agriculture/tractor battery NOT a deep cycle one -those are for boats and golf carts. Are you sure your system is now a 12 volt conversion? Originally they were 6-volt positive ground. Does it have an alternator or a generator? My email is open so shoot me one and I will explain more...

Tim

wasatch · May 23, 2015

Tim,

Thanks for your email.

The non-running one is a 12v conversion and the running is a 6v. I'm looking for a 12v battery recommendation...I know not to use deep cycle but was curious about cold cranking size...i.e. 350 cold cranking amps, 450, etc?

Thanks again

John

(quoted from post at 10:02:26 05/23/15) I have been using Interstate batteries for over 15 years with no complaints -5 years minimum life. I use to buy the cheap Wally World or TSC brands but their lifespan would be about two years. DEKA is a good brand as well and will last a long time. Get an agriculture/tractor battery NOT a deep cycle one -those are for boats and golf carts. Are you sure your system is now a 12 volt conversion? Originally they were 6-volt positive ground. Does it have an alternator or a generator? My email is open so shoot me one and I will explain more...

Tim

Tim PloughNman Daley RIP · May 24, 2015

650-750 CCA minimum is what I would get.

Bought 2 8N's!

wasatch

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