Easy thermostat question

I recently posted that I was having overheating problems with my 2N and after checking the head for warping and cracking, and examining the block for the same I now have it back together and ready to test up to full working temp to see if it shows a leak.

It turns out that my thermostat doesn't open properly(glass jar of water at 160 then 180 then full boil). Can I drill out the center and run it that way for a short time? I just want the engine to get up to operating temperature and I know having the thermostat out will allow too much flow.

I'll also be adding an in-line thermostat adapter(assuming the block isn't cracked) so I can get a proper 180 deg. thermostat in the tractor. It's a pricey upgrade but eliminates the frustration of only getting a 160 deg. thermostat in the system.
 
Only things I can say is some race cars use a restricter plate in thermostat housing to slow flow down while not running a full thermostat.

Also someone on here said a thermostat from a car does the trick of getting to 180*.
I just don't recall which car it is so hopefully they chime in.

HTH, Norm
 

If anti-freeze was the same formulation then it wouldn't be an issue. The desire for 180 is due to, what I understand as, a higher boiling point of current anti-freeze.
 
(quoted from post at 23:38:02 05/17/15)
If anti-freeze was the same formulation then it wouldn't be an issue. The desire for 180 is due to, what I understand as, a higher boiling point of current anti-freeze.

Is it better or worse for the engine? Or does it really make any difference at all? I don't know, just asking.
 

Doesn't cook off ambient moisture that builds up in the case. Probably not too much of an issue if you're in a warmer area with average humidity. Unfortunately I'm not so getting the block warm enough to burn that off is actually something I'd like to have happen.
 
" I'll also be adding an in-line thermostat adapter"

Why not just add a 180* t-stat?

See tip # 25 at the link as to why a 180* is a better choice over a 160* t-stat.....IMHO..

If you want to use a 180* t-stat (which I use on all 4 of my 8N's) try A&I part # A-11C15, Gates 33108, Beck/Arnley part # 143-0024, Auto Zone part # 3518 or NAPA part number THM 184 for 180* in hose t-stats.

The car parts store folks are helpless w/o vehicle make/model/year info. Some can/will actually search on the number & cross reference, but more often than not, you will just get a dumb look. HINT: find a clerk near the age of your tractor..... ;) Try telling them that the t-stat is for your 1977 Renault R12 1.6L L4.

All of my 180* t-stats are A&I A-11C15’s or AZ-3518's. They are a very tight fit in an N hose, but they will fit. I’ve never used the Gates, Beck/Arnley or NAPA t-stats so I can’t help you w/ anything there but the part numbers.

All that being said.....if you do not consistently run the tractor to operating temp, you will get condensation & sludge as a result.


http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2582642&cc=1264609


http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=THM184_0293180243
IMG_20150320_150912_323_zps0ofozbbk.jpg

75 Tips
 
I couldn't find one affordable from the local NAPA, but AZ ordered me one for about $7, IIRC. About half the price & twice as fast as NAPA.
75 Tips
 
Yes it makes a difference. Colder engines require more fuel which leads to increased upper cylinder wall wear. Usually this is seen as a ridge at the top of ring travel on older engines. It also leads to quicker oil service intervals and, as Bruce pointed out, the formation of sludge in the crankcase. Most engine manufacturers now run 195 degree thermostats. A 195 degree thermostat is the MINIMUM operating temperature for the engine. Maximum is determined by the design of the cooling system.
 
As Bruce said..plenty 180's to be had. I picked a few up from http://www.rockauto.com/ last year.
They have a closeout going for the Beck/Arnley part # 143-0024 for $4.50ea. Shipping is always at a great price.

BTW. I have been too lazy to install a new thermostat. The one that is in there now has only the copper outer tube. Cut the bulb or pointy end out leaving the thermostat wide open but restricting the flow more than if it was not there. Keeps the coolant at about 160-165 degrees.
 

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