Lower link shaft replacement

jkeller8n · May 17, 2015

I had a bad leak from the lower link arm shaft on my 8N, so I pulled the left trumpet and differential and removed the shaft. I ordered a replacement shaft, however the replacement doesn't fit flush with the hole. Is it supposed to, or should I just tighten the castellated nut to 150 ft/lbs and call it good?

Also, is it just me or is the hole for the cotter pin quite a bit too high for the castellated nut? Think I should stack some more washers? Or drill a new hole for the cotter pin?

Thanks in advance,
Justin

shaun wallace · May 17, 2015

Don't remember them being flush when new. I would get another G8 sae flat washer and put on if think cotter hole is too high.

R Geiger · May 17, 2015

I have never had to remove mine, but is that not a tapered pin? In which case it would not fit flush.
I too would add another washer under the nut.

jkeller8n · May 17, 2015

It is a tapered pin, my brain just wants it to fit nice and flush I guess. That's what I'll do then, just add another washer or two until the castle nut is at the right height with it torqued down.

Thanks guys.

Dell (WA) · May 17, 2015

Justan.........dunno where yer mechanical aptitude is...but...just bend the SOFT cotter key to fit yer castellated nut slotts. Simple, eh? ........the amazed Dell

jkeller8n · May 17, 2015

(quoted from post at 16:47:58 05/17/15) Justan.........dunno where yer mechanical aptitude is...but...just bend the SOFT cotter key to fit yer castellated nut slotts. Simple, eh? ........the amazed Dell

Huh, I suppose that would do it, wouldn't it. Seems like I might have been over thinking it a bit. I guess the cotter pin should hold the nut from working loose even if the cotter pin isn't sticking directly through the crenellations.

Thanks Dell.

Lower link shaft replacement

jkeller8n

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shaun wallace

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R Geiger

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jkeller8n

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Dell (WA)

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jkeller8n

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