My "do list" getting longer!

GunnyIa

Member
Bladed the road yesterday. 8N f/m 6V pos gnd went up the 1-mile road & back just purr'in. Then started missing & loosing power. Once more up the road & back, kicking & protesting the whole way. She did ok, though, and I kept her running till she was safely back in the garage. This morning, this is what I found!
mvphoto20748.jpg


She ran the last half, over 1+ miles, on 2 cylinders! She's one tough work horse!

Gunney, in Iowa
 

Fan belts sure do like to eat wires if they're not just right. After the 2nd time I had it happen they now get zip tied out of the way. At least its a simple fix. Quite the tractor to get ya back on 2 cylinders
 
(quoted from post at 11:49:28 05/12/15)
Quite the tractor to get ya back on 2 cylinders
'm surprised it ran as good as it did! I just noticed in the picture, shouldn't the plug wires be solid copper? Don't appear these are?
 
I dont believe you need an actual solid copper core wire. I use the one's like in your pic. You just dont want the graphite or carbon core whatever they're called wires.
 

Copper core is what you want. Just about all wiring in an automobile, tractor or what have you that is subject to constant vibration uses multi-strand wiring.

Solid wiring can break very easily or carry the vibration shock waves back to where the wire is fastened and cause it to loosen.

Multi-strand is also much easier to twist and form around tight quarters. Solid wiring is basically used for building wiring.
 
I always use stranded copper wire and solder the ends to the brass clips that go into the distributor nipples and the plug connectors. Carbon core or that other stuff can break down and give very high resistance readings. I went thru this with a neighbors 600 Ford last summer. There was a mixed variety of the carbon core wire for those spark plug leads. Looked like they came out of a trash barrel Got rid of all that stuff, cleaned out the inside of the nipples on the distributor and it was a new machine.
 
(quoted from post at 16:20:30 05/12/15) I always use stranded copper wire and solder the ends to the brass clips that go into the distributor nipples and the plug connectors. Carbon core or that other stuff can break down and give very high resistance readings. I went thru this with a neighbors 600 Ford last summer. There was a mixed variety of the carbon core wire for those spark plug leads. Looked like they came out of a trash barrel Got rid of all that stuff, cleaned out the inside of the nipples on the distributor and it was a new machine.

Correct. Non copper core ignition wires also known as carbon, Kevlar core or Noise Suppression wire has by nature much higher resistance values than copper core wire.
Our 8N coils only put out about ~20K volts as opposed to a modern day automobile coils outputting ~ 30K-40K volts.

Noise suppression wire will cut down the 20K volts to the point of not firing the spark plug.
 
Copper core it is. Anyone have experience with the [b:9612128e20]spark plug wire set (CPN12259)[/b:9612128e20] sold by this site? I do like to support YT, and have purchased lots from them already.

Or would O'Reillys be a better source & build the wires myself? Just pondering options. Appreciate all feedback!

Gunny, in Iowa
 
(quoted from post at 18:39:37 05/12/15) Copper core it is. Anyone have experience with the [b:21d0e6593b]spark plug wire set (CPN12259)[/b:21d0e6593b] sold by this site? I do like to support YT, and have purchased lots from them already.

Or would O'Reillys be a better source & build the wires myself? Just pondering options. Appreciate all feedback!

Gunny, in Iowa

I have kept years worth of old surpression wires. I just remove the boots and end connectors and re-crimp them on copper core as needed. I buy my wire by the foot from Mac Auto.
 
I am well aware of this, since I worked at one of the best auto/tractor/truck rebuild shops in Northern NE. The farm people always got suckered into the lousy carbon wires for
their tractors and then wondered why they did not work out well. The shop foreman used to really get up tight over that carbon core stuff. I had a '64 plymouth wagon that had
those wires in it and they all came out and copper stranded wires were put in. Ran much better after that.
 
Napa has everything you need to make up your own plug wires to the exact length you want them. They have the copper core wire by the foot. They have then metal ends and the rubber boots for both ends.

I will not pay for a pre made up set of wires again.

The O'Reilys in my town doesn't sell ignition wire by the foot.
 
CPN12259 is a Tisco part number I believe. They work fine.
The spark plug end is already fastened on for you but you still
have to cut them to length and attach the other end. It couldn't
work any other way with a front mount if you want to run them
through the wire tube. Pre-made wires wouldn't fit through the
tube and I assume that's why I've never seen any.

Lots of people do not like the wire tube for various reasons,
but it can help a lot when it comes to preventing what just
happened to your tractor.

Any good parts store sells the wire by the foot, boots and ends.
If you compare prices it might surprise you though.
If you're ordering other parts at the same time so that shipping
would be divided among parts, YT might be cheaper.
 
(quoted from post at 20:22:41 05/12/15) CPN12259 is a Tisco part number I believe. They work fine.
The spark plug end is already fastened on for you but you still
have to cut them to length and attach the other end. It couldn't
work any other way with a front mount if you want to run them
through the wire tube. Pre-made wires wouldn't fit through the
tube and I assume that's why I've never seen any.

Lots of people do not like the wire tube for various reasons,
but it can help a lot when it comes to preventing what just
happened to your tractor.

[size=18:77c2f50133][color=red:77c2f50133]Any good parts store sells the wire by the foot, boots and ends.[/color:77c2f50133][/size:77c2f50133]
If you compare prices it might surprise you though.
If you're ordering other parts at the same time so that shipping
would be divided among parts, YT might be cheaper.

Not exactly true. We have an O'Reilly's, an Autozone and a Napa in Hemet. Napa is the only one that sells the wire by the foot.
 
(quoted from post at 00:56:17 05/13/15)
(quoted from post at 20:22:41 05/12/15) CPN12259 is a Tisco part number I believe. They work fine.
The spark plug end is already fastened on for you but you still
have to cut them to length and attach the other end. It couldn't
work any other way with a front mount if you want to run them
through the wire tube. Pre-made wires wouldn't fit through the
tube and I assume that's why I've never seen any.

Lots of people do not like the wire tube for various reasons,
but it can help a lot when it comes to preventing what just
happened to your tractor.

[size=18:6839cbf26d][color=red:6839cbf26d]Any good parts store sells the wire by the foot, boots and ends.[/color:6839cbf26d][/size:6839cbf26d]
If you compare prices it might surprise you though.
If you're ordering other parts at the same time so that shipping
would be divided among parts, YT might be cheaper.

Not exactly true. We have an O'Reilly's, an Autozone and a Napa in Hemet. Napa is the only one that sells the wire by the foot.

Thanks for clarifying my point.
I did say any [b:6839cbf26d][i:6839cbf26d]good[/i:6839cbf26d][/b:6839cbf26d] parts store, not just any parts store.
Autozone has delusions of adequacy around here.
 
Thanks to everyone for your feedback.

I just ordered the wire set & a few other things from our host YT. The pic looks like the ends of the wire set need to be assembled, so I want to use the tube, which I have.

Gunny, in Iowa
 
(quoted from post at 13:51:00 05/13/15) Thanks to everyone for your feedback.

I just ordered the wire set & a few other things from our host YT. The pic looks like the ends of the wire set need to be assembled, so I want to use the tube, which I have.

Gunny, in Iowa

Well I'm glad you're happy but you could have purchase all the stuff to make your own wires from Napa and still used the tube.
 
I went to Napa, O'Reillys, & AutoZone today. They did not have copper core wire. In fact, none had spark plug wire for sale by the foot. Napa said they could order it. I thought, if I'm going to order it, buy from YT since I needed other stuff too.

Gunny, in Iowa
 
(quoted from post at 16:47:03 05/13/15)
I went to Napa, O'Reillys, & AutoZone today. They did not have copper core wire. In fact, none had spark plug wire for sale by the foot. Napa said they could order it. I thought, if I'm going to order it, buy from YT since I needed other stuff too.

Gunny, in Iowa

Wow, If one Napa store sold it by the foot, I would have thought that all of them would.
 
(quoted from post at 02:26:56 05/13/15)
(quoted from post at 16:20:30 05/12/15) I always use stranded copper wire and solder the ends to the brass clips that go into the distributor nipples and the plug connectors. Carbon core or that other stuff can break down and give very high resistance readings. I went thru this with a neighbors 600 Ford last summer. There was a mixed variety of the carbon core wire for those spark plug leads. Looked like they came out of a trash barrel Got rid of all that stuff, cleaned out the inside of the nipples on the distributor and it was a new machine.

Correct. Non copper core ignition wires also known as carbon, Kevlar core or Noise Suppression wire has by nature much higher resistance values than copper core wire.
Our 8N coils only put out about ~20K volts as opposed to a modern day automobile coils outputting ~ 30K-40K volts.

Noise suppression wire will cut down the 20K volts to the point of not firing the spark plug.

I must be one lucky SOB I don't have a issue running carbon core plug wires on any N are Farmall I have are worked on.
 
(quoted from post at 04:17:53 05/14/15)
(quoted from post at 02:26:56 05/13/15)
(quoted from post at 16:20:30 05/12/15) I always use stranded copper wire and solder the ends to the brass clips that go into the distributor nipples and the plug connectors. Carbon core or that other stuff can break down and give very high resistance readings. I went thru this with a neighbors 600 Ford last summer. There was a mixed variety of the carbon core wire for those spark plug leads. Looked like they came out of a trash barrel Got rid of all that stuff, cleaned out the inside of the nipples on the distributor and it was a new machine.

Correct. Non copper core ignition wires also known as carbon, Kevlar core or Noise Suppression wire has by nature much higher resistance values than copper core wire.
Our 8N coils only put out about ~20K volts as opposed to a modern day automobile coils outputting ~ 30K-40K volts.

Noise suppression wire will cut down the 20K volts to the point of not firing the spark plug.

I must be one lucky SOB I don't have a issue running carbon core plug wires on any N are Farmall I have are worked on.

You've created time bombs buddy. Stay away from those tractors. :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
 
(quoted from post at 07:17:53 05/14/15)
(quoted from post at 02:26:56 05/13/15)
(quoted from post at 16:20:30 05/12/15) I always use stranded copper wire and solder the ends to the brass clips that go into the distributor nipples and the plug connectors. Carbon core or that other stuff can break down and give very high resistance readings. I went thru this with a neighbors 600 Ford last summer. There was a mixed variety of the carbon core wire for those spark plug leads. Looked like they came out of a trash barrel Got rid of all that stuff, cleaned out the inside of the nipples on the distributor and it was a new machine.

Correct. Non copper core ignition wires also known as carbon, Kevlar core or Noise Suppression wire has by nature much higher resistance values than copper core wire.
Our 8N coils only put out about ~20K volts as opposed to a modern day automobile coils outputting ~ 30K-40K volts.

Noise suppression wire will cut down the 20K volts to the point of not firing the spark plug.

I must be one lucky SOB I don't have a issue running carbon core plug wires on any N are Farmall I have are worked on.

Hobo,
You must be using that cheap noise suppression wiring with low resistance.
Hey when all of the chips fall in place anything is possible. :idea:
 

Dunno what cheap noise suppression wiring izz...

My first N came to me with Carbon core wires 15 years ago and left here with them its still get'er done...

My Farmalls have Used GM HEI wires on'em with no problems... I think they are 8MM...

I think its a 6V thang you know all the star's in the universe has got to be in line fer'em to run...

I know what I am doing and don't need sum"N I have to fudge with all the time to keep it running just to prove i have hair on my chest...
 
while I will buy metal core wires if I have to buy new,
(or better yet, spiral core)
I'll step in here with Hobo to say that any style wire
works fine on my tractors. Just get the ignition working good.
As long as the insulation is up to snuff.
When I buy wires, the sheathing is what gets my attention.
good, supple, high quality material only.
I don't care for the 'tractor' wires that have hard as a brick insulation. It won't hold up without cracking/leaking.
The best copper wire is useless if it is arcing to ground thru the
insulation somewhere.
 
(quoted from post at 22:09:28 05/14/15)
Dunno what cheap noise suppression wiring izz...

My first N came to me with Carbon core wires 15 years ago and left here with them its still get'er done...

My Farmalls have Used GM HEI wires on'em with no problems... I think they are 8MM...

I think its a 6V thang you know all the star's in the universe has got to be in line fer'em to run...

I know what I am doing and don't need sum"N I have to fudge with all the time to keep it running just to prove i have hair on my chest...

Hobo,
Not gonna argue with ya. Don't know about the hair on your chest nor really care how it got there and I know you know your stuff since it is what you do.
Folks who may not know as much as you do come here to ask for help. Telling them to use suppression wire MAY cause them issues that would be tough for them to troubleshoot.

Non Copper Core adds to resistance to the circuit between coil and spark plug as it is meant to do. Copper Core wire adds very minimal if any which is how the ignition circuit on the 8N was originally designed.
 
(quoted from post at 05:26:04 05/15/15)
(quoted from post at 22:09:28 05/14/15)
Dunno what cheap noise suppression wiring izz...

My first N came to me with Carbon core wires 15 years ago and left here with them its still get'er done...

My Farmalls have Used GM HEI wires on'em with no problems... I think they are 8MM...

I think its a 6V thang you know all the star's in the universe has got to be in line fer'em to run...

I know what I am doing and don't need sum"N I have to fudge with all the time to keep it running just to prove i have hair on my chest...

Hobo,
Not gonna argue with ya. Don't know about the hair on your chest nor really care how it got there and I know you know your stuff since it is what you do.
Folks who may not know as much as you do come here to ask for help. Telling them to use suppression wire MAY cause them issues that would be tough for them to troubleshoot.

Non Copper Core adds to resistance to the circuit between coil and spark plug as it is meant to do. Copper Core wire adds very minimal if any which is how the ignition circuit on the 8N was originally designed.

Hobo, I agree with you. Everyone knows that copper core wires work. If you can get copper core wire why would you want to use anything else?

I've got a buddy that is an electrician. He once told me that stranded wire is better to use than solid wire. The reason, he said, is because the electricity actually runs around the outside of the wire. So the more strands, the more area for the electricity to flow. Of course he explained it in better technical language than that but that was the gist of it.
 
Ok, for you electrically challenged experts, here is a odd-ball question. If the quoted statement is literally correct, what is the result of the following?

You have a VERY large wire (like 1/2" thick) with a current going thru it. You put a volt meter on it, with the hot lead connecting only at the very center of the large wire. [b:b134e0b80c]Will the voltage read zero?
[/b:b134e0b80c]
If not, is the quoted statement false?

Gunny, in Iowa
 
(quoted from post at 16:56:03 05/15/15)
Ok, for you electrically challenged experts, here is a odd-ball question. If the quoted statement is literally correct, what is the result of the following?

You have a VERY large wire (like 1/2" thick) with a current going thru it. You put a volt meter on it, with the hot lead connecting only at the very center of the large wire. [b:f9dfd4ade3]Will the voltage read zero?
[/b:f9dfd4ade3]
If not, is the quoted statement false?

Gunny, in Iowa

If I remember right, I think he said the majority of the power runs more freely around the outside of the wire. I'm not an electrician and don't even play one on TV. My friend is a licensed electrical contractor.

The larger the diameter of the wire, the more o.d. space for the current to run around. Makes sense to me.
 

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