tractor starts--then don't start

brucew44guns · May 12, 2015

My 1952 8N got pretty ratty, almost would not start. We have a local country type shop near, so they came and got it. Overhauled the carb, cleaned and adjusted points. I had put new plugs in myself before they came. He said it started fine, after several re-starts over 2 days at their shop. I parked it in shed, 2 weeks ago. Tried to use it today, about ran down battery, then it finally started. I mowed 1.5 hours, I shut it off. Then--no go, not even a sputter. Wife came with JD Gator, pulled it, she ran fine. One more hour mowing, came to the barn, shut it off, re-fueled it, tried to start it. Nothing. I pulled a plug wire, put on a new plug I had, lots of spark. Funny thing was, it started that time easily on 3 cylinders, I was just cranking to check spark. Put wire back on plug, it started easily everytime I tried for 4 or 5 times and ran smooth. What the heck is going on here? It's usually been a good old machine and always has started. What could be variable, for it to go one time---not the next?

Royse · May 12, 2015

You say '52 8N, so that would have a side mount distributor.
The terminal that feeds power through the side of the distributor
to the points inside has a tendency to crack and ground out on
the case. That can be an intermittent fault as it vibrates or gets
bumped when you pull a plug wire for testing.

It's not the only possibility, but it's one that comes to mind.

You're on the right track though. When it won't start, check spark.
If spark is good, check your fuel flow.

brucew44guns · May 12, 2015

Thanks---I cracked the gas line going in to top of carb, lots of gas flowing. I emptied gas sediment bowl too, it was clean before I did that. I'll look at that wire, maybe they messed it up when working on the distributor.

Royse · May 12, 2015

You're welcome!

The wire from the coil should connect to a stud on the outside of
the distributor. That stud is insulated from the distributor case.
On the inside of the distributor case that same stud connects to
a small copper strip that connects to your points.

It's the insulator around that stud that I was referring to, but it
could also be the little copper strip touching the case, etc.
I could get you some pictures of mine tomorrow if it will help.

BTW, a better way to check fuel flow is to remove the drain plug
from the bottom of the carb and let it flow into a jar. It should
run steadily, not dribble. Pint or so in about two minutes.
Check the gas you caught in the jar for water, dirt, etc.

pauls9ntractor · May 13, 2015

Check your ignition switch. Hook up a volt meter to the switch and cycle it several times. Chances are the switch is working part time.

souNdguy · May 13, 2015

the come and go problems are hard to trouble shoot sometimes.

at first no start before you grind on it 20 minutes and kill the battery.. check spark, then recheck spark. if spark is good, check fuel, then compression.

if spark is questionable. hot wire and try it.

Ultradog MN · May 13, 2015

Bruce,
So looking at your handle you must have fourty four guns.
Or you like .44 cal guns.
Or maybe you have fourty four .44 cal guns.
Either, any or all would be good in my book.

R Geiger · May 13, 2015

I have two late model 8ns, one with a distributor and one with a magneto. the side mount dist one does not like any choke until it fires, If I choke it too soon she will flood out and will not start until I let it set for a bit, the one with the magneto likes to be choked from the git go.

They all are a bit different in how they start. I had a fuel problem that I found by pulling the bottom drain plug. The stand pipe in the tank on top of the sediment bowl was partially plugged restricting fuel flow. It would start and run, then die, wait and few minutes and it would do the same. Had to replace the sediment bowl assy.

Yours does sound more like an ignition issue tho! I had a switch go bad and it would just up and die, jiggle the key and she would fire back up, got that switch replaced quick like!

Royse · May 13, 2015

"Check your ignition switch."

Another good possibility Paul, the original switch is
prone to failure also.

Measure the voltage across it, jumper it, or hotwire
it as souNdguy suggested. Any of them will work.

brucew44guns · May 13, 2015

I got a new switch coming, will put that on 1st and try that. Then---if it acts up still, will go after that distributor wire and insulator with fury and gusto. Hate any machine that won't start easily. Thanks guys,

Royse · May 13, 2015

(quoted from post at 20:28:27 05/13/15) I got a new switch coming, will put that on 1st and try that. Then---if it acts up still, will go after that distributor wire and insulator with fury and gusto. Hate any machine that won't start easily. Thanks guys,

I might not have been clear, I was just pointing out one place to
test. I would test all the possibilities to prove what's wrong before
you start replacing parts. Otherwise you might introduce new
problems and complicate finding the original issue.

brucew44guns · May 13, 2015

I looked on this web site to see about getting that insulated stud on distributor case---did not see that part.

tractor starts--then don't start

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