for What It's Worth

Tall T

Well-known Member
I made a puller for the Rotary Cutter blade bar housing and am happy to report that it worked . . . had my doubts for a bit as the top flat bar started bending. Cranking it tight and heating cracked the hold, but then I had to do that sequence a few more times.

I ground the tip of the jack screw to a nice rounded tip and welded a centering collar to the underside of the top plate.
Just glad it all worked without having to go back to the drawing board.

Cheers,
T
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True enough! :)
It says "Made in Canada" on it.

I'm no engineer like some of you so I was wondering as I cranked on the tough little rascal with a pipe extension. When I felt like I was approaching the breaking point of [i:2d9a777353]something[/i:2d9a777353]
like maybe the housing plate itself, or a tooth off the jack drive, I'd stop and heat.

Cheers,
T

On the raised lettering:
Made in Canada
Auto Spec Mfg Co
Windsor, On (Ontario)

Even though I bent that top bar around the jack's foot
it held it's ground even for as thin as it is . . . just the right hardness. That flat bar was just soft poorly chromed Chinese from a bumper hitch setup. It already had one hole at one end.

The jack's pinion gear drive hole is a tapering square
and by some fluke of nature, I have an old IHC engine cranker that's a straight bar with this tapered drive at the other end. My adjustable wrench stayed tight with each purchase because I could slide it back snug on that long tapered point. Lucky finds all around.

Having the long bar in my left and the pipe and wrench in the other, meant I could go easier on the gear meshing, keep the old and sloppy gears tighter with some upward pressure.

I lost the top boot off this jack screw a while back, or I never had it. No wait a minute, I took it off for some reason like this.
But with today's use, Little Jack has earned his keep, finally paid off big time. So it was a natural to think of grinding a nice tapered point on the screw for this purpose.

I'm thinking I might have picked up that crank bar wherever I got this jack 40 years ago. I think maybe someone cut the handle off a normal engine crank and made the tapered square point for this jack.
 

Terry,
Looking good. Its a great feeling when a home brewed tool actually works the way you want and cost you next to nothing.....and you are not picking pieces of it up across the field.

There was some good stress on that cross plate.
 

Hi Gabe,

Satisfying indeed. Sitting on the deck heating it, when it let go for an eighth of an inch, the deck tin rang like a punk rock cymbal. :D

The softness of the top bar might have served as a stress absorber and an early warning system to lessen the advent of cracking or breaking the blade bar channel plate. When the top plate bent so far, it came up against the force of the top inch of the bolt heads which slowed the bending it up a mite.

But in the future, I'll weld two side plates on that top bar.

Thank you sir,
Terry
 

Guy,

"Serious hurt" . . . that's funny!

Definitely a testament to the integrity of the old machinery.
this jack says; AUTO SPEC Mfg Co
I think the "spec" might mean "specialty" products.
Windsor, being right across the river from Detroit, these were probably made for the auto industry as standard issue vehicle jacks.

Cheers,
T
 
Gabe,

Not sure I follow but the screws with the square cut threads were made for these jacks and came with. The crown gears do all the work climbing the screws but the screws never turn so . . . way more power.

Here's the Screw Jack Jack gang:
The one on the right has telescoping sleeves that keep the screw clean. Makes it look like a hydraulic jack. Notice he is talking to the other jack. :D
Can you imagine what he might be sayin'?
"Jack, have you lost your head?"

I was pretty confident the little green guy would hold up because I've lifted 3 ton axle housings, duals frame and all with the Ashland Oregon one.

So if the one I used had failed I was ready to take the boot off my favorite one, the Ashland with the way larger screw . . . and turn that one into a press/puller . . . which probably would have been wiser. . . but at least I made sure it was vertical enough that the screw didn't break or bend.

I almost spot welded the bar to the jack foot but I'm glad I didn't. I welded a pipe collar on the bar underside that fit the hole in the bottom of the jack post, and a couple of beads to fall into two slots.

Terry

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Nothing beats that old stuff. They look like they were made to work. Not like this cheap china junk of today.

And No I did not miss seeing the can of Amsoil!!! :D
 
Now how did that get there! :D

. . .which reminds me, I need one of those bicycle water bottle carriers to bolt to the tractor fender for me trusty MP.

China . . . right, integrity gone from the products, a deficiency that goes hand in hand with the spiritual depravity that started the "outsourcing" in the first place. What clever terms they use to ply their trade, "outsourcing".

Yesterday I brought home a Mr. Gasket, glass in-line gas filter and upon closer examination after a half hour cracking the secret of the hermetically sealed plastic . . . what crap! I'm taking it back for a refund. Under the thick plastic it gives their in and out pipes the impression of real chrome, but not so, it's plastic chrome over some kind of plastic or pot metal that's already flaking off. I always cut my way into these packages very carefully so it doesn't look too mangled if I have to take it back.

Yes it was made in China, by Prestolite of Cleveland, Ohio!

Also . . . I decided that the glass filter is a bad idea for the tractor anyway.

Cheers,
Terry
 

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