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New 9n owner checking in

J

jjk454ss

Member
I'm just checking in, I'm here to do some research. Just bought a 9n, I'll keep reading, but if anyone wants to help out, this is what I'm looking for:

1). Fuel. What do I use, and what do I add to it? Anything for using unleaded and anything for the ethanol?

2). Oil. Living in MI, I'll use it year around. Plowing in the winter, just moving around some trailers in the summer. Nothing real hard or heavy. What oil should I use?

3). Hitch. I'd like to get the front bumper/grille with the spot for a ball, where's the best place to purchase? And what do I need to hookup something to the 3 point to get a ball on it to easily move trailers?

4). Plow. Should I get a backblade for the snow? Any decent and affordable way to get something in the front for pushing snow? And what should I do for weight? Anything? Fill the tires and buy chains?
 
Welcome to the forum!

Re #1, see tip # 5

Re # 2, see tip # 6

Re # 3, see tip # 11. And, your best place for new N parts is here or nnalert's. (avoid TSC ) A trailer ball should be easy to find locally. For the 3-point, you need a draw bar, a ball & draw bar stays.

Re # 4, I live in VA. Snow, even in the forecast, results in the grocery stores selling out & life as we know it stopping. But....I'll tell you this much...load the tires and get chains. Plenty of forum members in MI & other cold places will be along soon & help you out w/ the snow questions!
75 Tips
 
87 Oct fine, no adds unless you think it needs some storage treatment.

Running in cold? May bee 10w30 maybe 15-40

Do load the tires!
 
"Hitch. I'd like to get the front bumper/grille with the spot for a ball, where's the best place to purchase? And what do I need to hookup
something to the 3 point to get a ball on it to easily move trailers?"

Here is a picture of how I hook up a hitch to the rear of a 9N.

You can find original bumpers in all kinds of conditions on ebay. You can find reproductions that are close to the originals. Right here at YT they sell one for $232. They also sell a functional one for $111. Here's a link.
042-1.jpg

Bumper right fhere at YT
 
jjk454ss, welcome to the forum!
I'm in Ionia county Michigan, where abouts are you?

As for the fuel, run regular as is, no need for additives.
If you store it for periods in winter consider Stabil, etc.

I run 10W-30 in mine year around unless they have low
oil pressure, then I might bump it up to 15W-40 in summer.

I might be able to help with a bumper if you're close.
Email is open on modern view.

For the rear hitch I made my own out of an old under bumper
receiver and some flat bar bolted to a standard 11 hole drawbar.

I don't use my back blade for snow since I got a front blade.
To me it's the best way to go and it works off a simple pulley
system using a cable from the 3 pt hitch to the front.
A guy with some tubing and a welder could make one in a day.

You will need weight and chains both when we get ice. BTDT.
Loaded tires or cast iron weights (or both) is your choice.
Loading tires is cheaper until they leak.

You're welcome to take measurements off mine if needed.
Here's a picture of my poor old 2N. It has quite a history!

mvphoto19202.jpg


mvphoto19203.jpg
 

HCooke, that's what I had in mind for the rear, and thanks for the link for the from bumper. Do the cheap ones hold up ok? Will they support the weight of the pricier ones?

Royse, I am pretty close, in Holland. I like the setup you've got, looks nice. I'm not a welder or fabricator, but I do like what you've done. If you've got a front bumper I'm certainly interested. Where do you typically shop for stuff? I'm in GR often anyway, so if it's in the area I might check them out. I was going to check Tractor Supply in Hudsonville, but not sure if they are any good.

Anyone try something like this? Do they even make it in the size I'd need for a 9n? I have something like this on my JD 445 and it works great:

 

I bought a front bumper from a local guy for $50 that has the ball mount. Very handy.
My 9N came with a 6' back blade so I plow with that. Not ideal and it will get you a stiff neck but it works for now. Chains are a must, weight is helpful. My biggest improvement was adding position control via a "Zane Thang" so I can hover the blade an inch off the ground. That reduces drag, keeps the gravel in the driveway, and adds the weight of the back blade to the rear wheels for better traction.
I'm in Kent County MI, not far from Royse.
 
If you load the tires consider waste antifreeze. Price is right and it takes about 28 gallons per tire. You can easily do it yourself.
 

Lots of "locals" here, that's great. I've looked through Craigslist, wasn't sure where else to look for a used bumper. Or where to find a new one locally either. Any suggestions?

I'll have to research the "Zane Thang". Chances are I'll end up plowing with a back blade too, since I'd like one anyway for other stuff.
 
(quoted from post at 18:57:20 04/14/15) If you load the tires consider waste antifreeze. Price is right and it takes about 28 gallons per tire. You can easily do it yourself.
Click to expand...

I was actually wondering if I can do it myself, I'll have to research how it's done. Any downside to loading the tires?
 
I buy most of my used stuff at auctions, on CL or online.
Our hosts here at YT have most anything you need new.

I shop Tractor Supply for bulk hardware, oil, etc.
Their electric/tune up parts are inferior and over priced.
Same with the carb kits they carry from Tisco.

There is a hitch like that one made for Cat 1 3pt hitch.
TSC might have that also, I haven't looked honestly.
I made my hitch out of what I had laying around. Cheap! LOL

I didn't make the front mount blade. I originally thought
someone else had made it as a home made unit, but I have
seen several since that are identical, so I think it was factory
made even though none of them had visible tags or markings.
 
(quoted from post at 21:45:17 04/14/15)
HCooke, that's what I had in mind for the rear, and thanks for the link for the from bumper. Do the cheap ones hold up ok? Will they support the weight of the pricier ones?

Royse, I am pretty close, in Holland. I like the setup you've got, looks nice. I'm not a welder or fabricator, but I do like what you've done. If you've got a front bumper I'm certainly interested. Where do you typically shop for stuff? I'm in GR often anyway, so if it's in the area I might check them out. I was going to check Tractor Supply in Hudsonville, but not sure if they are any good.

Anyone try something like this? Do they even make it in the size I'd need for a 9n? I have something like this on my JD 445 and it works great:

Click to expand...

I assume that's a category 0 hitch setup. You'll need a category 1 for your 9N. Like this one.
 
(quoted from post at 19:07:30 04/14/15) I buy most of my used stuff at auctions, on CL or online.
Our hosts here at YT have most anything you need new.

I shop Tractor Supply for bulk hardware, oil, etc.
Their electric/tune up parts are inferior and over priced.
Same with the carb kits they carry from Tisco.

There is a hitch like that one made for Cat 1 3pt hitch.
TSC might have that also, I haven't looked honestly.
I made my hitch out of what I had laying around. Cheap! LOL

I didn't make the front mount blade. I originally thought
someone else had made it as a home made unit, but I have
seen several since that are identical, so I think it was factory
made even though none of them had visible tags or markings.
Click to expand...

Thanks again for the info. I'll have to look around for a fron blade like that then. Maybe if I can find one this time of year it'll be a little cheaper, but I've got some time before I'll need it. Hopefully. It is Michigan after all:).
 
(quoted from post at 22:17:04 04/14/15)
(quoted from post at 19:07:30 04/14/15) I buy most of my used stuff at auctions, on CL or online.
Our hosts here at YT have most anything you need new.

I shop Tractor Supply for bulk hardware, oil, etc.
Their electric/tune up parts are inferior and over priced.
Same with the carb kits they carry from Tisco.

There is a hitch like that one made for Cat 1 3pt hitch.
TSC might have that also, I haven't looked honestly.
I made my hitch out of what I had laying around. Cheap! LOL

I didn't make the front mount blade. I originally thought
someone else had made it as a home made unit, but I have
seen several since that are identical, so I think it was factory
made even though none of them had visible tags or markings.
Click to expand...

Thanks again for the info. I'll have to look around for a fron blade like that then. Maybe if I can find one this time of year it'll be a little cheaper, but I've got some time before I'll need it. Hopefully. It is Michigan after all:).
Click to expand...
You're welcome!
Here's one guy's idea of how to fill the tires: YouTube
I fill and drain my own too using that same attachment.
TSC sell that for about $10. I use a $5 drill pump though
because I fill mine with Calcium Chloride.

You mentioned downsides to loading the tires. First of all,
whether you fill them with beet juice (Rim Guard) or windshield
wiper fluid or used anitfreeze or CaCl, they all have the downside
of being completely lost if you puncture a tire and tube.
Cast iron weights win here.

Besides that, the liquids are of different weight and costs.
Rim Guard is pricey, but environmentally friendly.
Windshield wiper fluid is also EF and animal friendly but weighs
less and is still pretty costly.
Used antifreeze is cheaper but not so much EF/AF if leaked.
Calcium Chloride is heavy. Damn heavy depending on mixture.
It is also very corrosive, like salt water. Hence the cheap pump
I use. The pump may not work twice if not cleaned very well.
A leaky tube will let the CaCl leak onto your rim. If you don't
catch it and fix it quickly, it will rust your rim out and you will
have to buy a new rim and do the whole fill-drill again.

Here's a [b:f83ae8ad50]link[/b:f83ae8ad50] to Zane's lift stuff.
Prices may have changed, but his contact info should be good.
I have his Zane Thang on my 9N and 2N both.
 
Picture shows my 2N with about 200#s of weights each side and tires are loaded, also use chains in winter. LOTS of choices in chains.
a189074.jpg
 
jkk.......downside to loading tires? .....um? Air pressure is 12psi, filled or unfilled. While CaCl (calcium chloride) has been the choice since the beginning, enny leak ROTTS yer rims. Anti-freeze has been suggested. Works well but DOGS love the sweet taste and is POISONOUS to dogs. RV toilet anti-freeze works well (unused of course) and is NOT poisonous to dogs. Yes it works well in tractor tires. Me? Since I don't need added traction fer brushhoggin', I had the solution drained outta my 14.9-24 tires and new innertubes put in. Haven't hadd too add enny air in 10-yrs. ........HTH, Dell
 
congrat's you have purchased something you will be working on the rest of your life, get a professional tire shop to fill your tires with the proper fluid for your area.
 
(quoted from post at 06:13:13 04/16/15) congrat's you have purchased something you will be working on the rest of your life, get a professional tire shop to fill your tires with the proper fluid for your area.
Click to expand...

Thanks
 
Thanks to the help I've received here I found a front bumper and the rear hitch I wanted.

Even picked up a backblade, found on Craigslist, turned out it was a neighbor selling it from right around the corner. Worked great because he even delivered it with his tractor since he was so close:)

Now I can't get one of the front bolts out for the bumper, and I can't get the tractor to start. I think the key may have been left on for a week, not sure. But it won't do anything, won't turn over. I out a charger on it, it tried to turn over after a while but wouldn't. Charger kept going to "check battery". But it also went to "fully charged" and still wouldn't turn over.



 
Good deal! You will want to take the weight off that front axle
before you try to get the bolts out of course. It would fall
otherwise. You may need a blue wrench!

IF you left the key on for even overnight, it may have
ruined your coil, possibly the points and the battery.

But before you buy parts for it, what have you tried/tested?
Will the battery charge normally if you disconnect a battery cable?
It should at least turn over with a good battery regardless of
the coil/points etc. Start with getting it to turn over.
 
(quoted from post at 18:59:54 04/24/15) Good deal! You will want to take the weight off that front axle
before you try to get the bolts out of course. It would fall
otherwise. You may need a blue wrench!

IF you left the key on for even overnight, it may have
ruined your coil, possibly the points and the battery.

But before you buy parts for it, what have you tried/tested?
Will the battery charge normally if you disconnect a battery cable?
It should at least turn over with a good battery regardless of
the coil/points etc. Start with getting it to turn over.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help. What's a blue wrench?

I haven't tried anything except charging the battery, I'm not a mechanic in the slightest. I'm not sure the key was left on, it probably wasn't, I just wondered if that's why the battery was dead maybe. It wouldn't start at all, so I stuck the charger on it for maybe 20-30 minutes. Then it started to turn over but just slightly, so I set the charger to 2 amp and left it overnight, tried it the next day, battery charger says its charged, but I get nothing when hitting the start button.

Haven't gone past that at all because I don't know where to go from here.
 
(quoted from post at 22:09:08 04/24/15)
(quoted from post at 18:59:54 04/24/15) Good deal! You will want to take the weight off that front axle
before you try to get the bolts out of course. It would fall
otherwise. You may need a blue wrench!

IF you left the key on for even overnight, it may have
ruined your coil, possibly the points and the battery.

But before you buy parts for it, what have you tried/tested?
Will the battery charge normally if you disconnect a battery cable?
It should at least turn over with a good battery regardless of
the coil/points etc. Start with getting it to turn over.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the help. What's a blue wrench?

I haven't tried anything except charging the battery, I'm not a mechanic in the slightest. I'm not sure the key was left on, it probably wasn't, I just wondered if that's why the battery was dead maybe. It wouldn't start at all, so I stuck the charger on it for maybe 20-30 minutes. Then it started to turn over but just slightly, so I set the charger to 2 amp and left it overnight, tried it the next day, battery charger says its charged, but I get nothing when hitting the start button.

Haven't gone past that at all because I don't know where to go from here.
Click to expand...
Remind me, is this still 6V or converted to 12V?
The cause of a dead battery may vary based on that.

Either way, disconnect a battery cable and charge the battery fully.
You could take the battery in and have it load tested at a parts
store if needed, that's usually free other than your time.

Let us know how that goes and we'll better know how to help.

Blue wrench is a slang term for a torch. Those bolts have probably
been in there for 40+ years. They don't always come out easily!
 
It's 6 volt, I'll try to disconnect and charge it tomorrow, and I'll bring it in to have it tested too,

Thanks again for the help
 
I disconnected one cable from the battery, gave it a full charge. When I hooked it up again it turned over really, really slowly 3 times, then nothing again. Does it sound like I just need a battery?

Also, anyone have the size of the bolts that hold the front axles? The ones that also hold the front bumper if you out one on?

Edit:

Found the bolt info:

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=853518
 
"Does it sound like I just need a battery?"

Could be. Did you clean and tighten both ends of the battery
cables? Did you try jump starting it right at the starter?
I'd hate to have you go buy a $100 battery to find out that is
not the problem. Much cheaper to check the other things first.

You could also get an idea from a voltage reading across the
battery terminals. What is it fully charged and after trying to
start? If it doesn't fully charge or drops drastically that would
be another sign that the battery needs replacing.
Did you have the battery load tested? Free at the parts store.

IIRC I used 5/8 x 4 inch bolts.
I can measure them in a few minutes.
 

Thank you again. I just pulled the battery out and brought it in to get tested. I did check the cells and they were completely empty, I added water and still seem to get no charge into the battery.
 
Not that it starts, I'm off to the next big thing. Which happens to be that the coolant is very dark and kind of smells like maybe it has fuel in it. Is this a head gasket maybe? Or what could this be?

Also, I'm sure I'll find the info here, but recommendations on plugs/wires?
 
"recommendations on plugs/wires?"

Autolite 437 plugs and wire core plug wires.
Both are sold here on YT or at TSC/NAPA/etc
 
New question. I'm not sure how to make the 3 point hitch work better for me to move trailers around. First, is it possible to raise and lower it while the clutch is depressed? Second, maybe something on mine is just worn out, but it will lift a trailer but will not hold it up. It lowers so quick that it's probably not going to work at all for me as is. Is this what the Zane Thang fixes? I didn't really understand what issue that resolves?
 
(quoted from post at 22:11:24 04/26/15) New question. I'm not sure how to make the 3 point hitch work better for me to move trailers around. First, is it possible to raise and lower it while the clutch is depressed? Second, maybe something on mine is just worn out, but it will lift a trailer but will not hold it up. It lowers so quick that it's probably not going to work at all for me as is. Is this what the Zane Thang fixes? I didn't really understand what issue that resolves?
Click to expand...
Your 9N came from the factory without position control on the lift. It's full up or full down only. Position control was a later development on the 8N. The Zane Thang is a bolt on external fix that will give you position control. If your intent is to lift the trailer tongue and hold it at a specific height you'll need it. I have one and it works great.
The hydraulic pump is driven by the PTO. Clutch in, no pump rotation. Just slip it out of gear and let the clutch back out.
 
(quoted from post at 19:27:03 04/26/15)
(quoted from post at 22:11:24 04/26/15) New question. I'm not sure how to make the 3 point hitch work better for me to move trailers around. First, is it possible to raise and lower it while the clutch is depressed? Second, maybe something on mine is just worn out, but it will lift a trailer but will not hold it up. It lowers so quick that it's probably not going to work at all for me as is. Is this what the Zane Thang fixes? I didn't really understand what issue that resolves?
Click to expand...
Your 9N came from the factory without position control on the lift. It's full up or full down only. Position control was a later development on the 8N. The Zane Thang is a bolt on external fix that will give you position control. If your intent is to lift the trailer tongue and hold it at a specific height you'll need it. I have one and it works great.
The hydraulic pump is driven by the PTO. Clutch in, no pump rotation. Just slip it out of gear and let the clutch back out.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks. Is this why it kept falling? Because I didn't fully raise it? It I lifted the trailer to the highest position it would have stayed? If tests the case, I'll order the Zane Thang right away.
 
If you lifted a bit and then pushed the touch control down to stop lifting it worked just like it's supposed to. Do you have any implements yet? If so, put one on and lift it all the way up. It should stay there. If it drops when you push the clutch in you have other issues.
 
(quoted from post at 19:39:57 04/26/15) If you lifted a bit and then pushed the touch control down to stop lifting it worked just like it's supposed to. Do you have any implements yet? If so, put one on and lift it all the way up. It should stay there. If it drops when you push the clutch in you have other issues.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks. I picked up a backblade, haven't used it yet though. I'll put that on and check.
 
Does anyone know the rating, or what kind of weight I can pickup with the 3-point? And what about the front axle?

I need to move campers in and out of the barn. I'm wondering what I should be able to move as far as tongue weight of a trailer? Think I shouldn't have any problems with a 30-32 ft camper trailer?
 

i would think it would hold that much tongue weight , i hope you are on flat ground . i would be more concerned with stopping a 30' trailer..
 
(quoted from post at 20:35:03 05/02/15)
i would think it would hold that much tongue weight , i hope you are on flat ground . i would be more concerned with stopping a 30' trailer..
Click to expand...

It's all very flat, it's just basically backing in and out of a barn. Has anyone ever reinforced the front bumper/grille to support more weight. I'm wondering if there's a good way, also, is there a way to put a drawbar with a trailer ball on the rear, not using the 3 point?

Thanks for the help
 
"is there a way to put a drawbar with a trailer ball on the rear"

Yes, TheOldHokie used to make a draw bar plate for the 9N.
I don't know if he's still making them, but maybe he'll chime in.
This picture of it is from his old website.

mvphoto20258.jpg
 
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